07-16-2012, 11:04 PM
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#1
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Location: Melbourne
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99' not starting. Neutral Safety Switch?
My 1999 is having some starting issues. Sometimes she fires right up, other times I turn the key and nothing.. not even a clicking. Battery voltage looks good.
I found this thread and am pretty sure it's the Neutral Safety Switch. I have the exact same diagnosis as described here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/mainte...not-start.html
Anyone replace this or can point me in the right direction? I haven't been able to find any DIY's for this. I have a 99 3.4L.
Any help is appreciated.
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1999 Toyota 4runner
2003 BMW M3 - sold
1997 BMW M3 - sold
1987 BMW 325is - sold
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07-17-2012, 12:04 AM
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#2
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Join Date: May 2012
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Real Name: Jerrie (He).
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The same thing just happened with my girlfriends '07 RAV 4. She even took it to Toyota and they just blamed her....but, moving the shifter deliberately out of and back into park seems to work for now. I am not sure exactly where the switch is located, good luck.
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07-17-2012, 12:06 AM
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#3
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Make sure the trucks in Park lol Idk good luck that sounds quite annoying
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3.4 Swap. Sas. Locked front/rear. 5:29's 35x1250 KM2's
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07-17-2012, 06:58 AM
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#4
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Stationed in Camp LeJeune, home is Conover, NC
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Try putting it in neutral and starting it. If it starts then, more than likely the neutral starting switch. Thier expensive. And a PITA to get to. I use to turn the truck on, then jump the starter relay in my old 5-lug when mine went out. People give you some weird looks, but hey, it worked, and saved me money.
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07-17-2012, 08:36 AM
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#5
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She's started everytime since I posted this. Next time she fails i'll throw it in neutral and see if she starts.
I'm almost positive this is what it is but can't seem to find any information on where it's located on the vehicle. I saw around $200 for the part.
Anybody else?
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1999 Toyota 4runner
2003 BMW M3 - sold
1997 BMW M3 - sold
1987 BMW 325is - sold
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07-19-2012, 12:57 AM
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#6
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Its on the out side of the transmission opposite side of the shift leaver, if I remember correctly.
By the way I'm currently throwing a check engine light for the park neutral switch (dont remember the code) and I have zero problems starting.
No I did not try starting the truck in gear.
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10-23-2013, 10:19 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mahalas
Its on the out side of the transmission opposite side of the shift leaver, if I remember correctly.
By the way I'm currently throwing a check engine light for the park neutral switch (dont remember the code) and I have zero problems starting.
No I did not try starting the truck in gear.
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Mahalas, did you ever resolve your CEL issue regarding the park neutral switch? I have the same issue and its throwing P1780 code. If resolved how did you fix it? Thanks.
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2000 4runner 4x4 Ltd. V6 3.4L
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10-23-2013, 11:00 PM
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#8
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I have played with this switch several times.
Not that bad to remove. It is on the passenger side (US 4runners) If you turn the wheel all the way to left, and look at the transmission from behind the front right tire, you can see it mounted on the transmission.
To remove it from the truck, first remove the wire plug on the top by pressing the tab on the plug. Then there is a 10 or 12 mm bolt that mounts the unit to the transmission body.
There is a 17 mm nut in the middle. after removing this nut, you can see 4 metal tab holding the shaft that comes out from the transmission. Slowly pull the unit from the transmission. Do not try to pry those small metal tabs, as they tends to break easily.
You in fact can remove the Neutral safety switch and clean the inside points. There will be 2 or 3 copper metal plates touching some pins. I opened mine and cleaned those.
When you are ready to mount the unit back on the transmission, get the shift leaver to Neutral position (this bring the shaft coming out from the transmission at the neutral safety switch to line up in 6-12 O clock). Now insert the switch and you can see a straight line embossed on the switch. Keep this line also on 6-12 O clock.
Now get the 10 or 12 mm bolt and tight it. then use the 17 mm bolt and tight that too. Put the wire plug back.
This is all I did.
3rd picture shows the line that should be in 6-12 O clock. Also notice the two copper contacts at 7th and 8th picture. The spring inside the arm can be slightly extended. Also clean the copper plates in the main base.
Let me know if you need more help.
Last edited by nissanh; 10-23-2013 at 11:19 PM.
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10-25-2013, 02:06 AM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mavrk12
Mahalas, did you ever resolve your CEL issue regarding the park neutral switch? I have the same issue and its throwing P1780 code. If resolved how did you fix it? Thanks.
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Pulled out the check engine light bulb.
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03-22-2015, 09:43 PM
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#10
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This thread has been a great help. My '98 4runner was having problems starting and would sometimes kick in when I giggled the shift lever and/or put it in neutral. It was getting more and more difficult to start and a friend suggested I look into the neutral safety switch, which is when I found this thread. The directions nissanh gave was great. However on my '98, the center nut was larger than 17mm. I didn't have a bigger wrench and had to use an adjustable one. I also had to use a flathead to slowly pry the part from the shaft. I replaced it with an after market part I bought for $159. When tightening the center nut, the shift lever (which was in neutral) would move, so my friend had to hold the lever while I tightened the nut. Since the part was new, I had to bend the prongs toward the nut to help keep it from loosening while shifting. The car seems to be starting fine.
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06-24-2016, 02:35 AM
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#11
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This thread is the key.
Greetings.
For two weeks my '97 4Runner was randomly not cranking or clicking or anything when I turned the key. The remedy was to manually connect the starter relay and she would crank right up. This indicated that the starting sequence from there down was fully operational, and shifted the focus to the components between the ignition and the starter relay. The Neutral Safety Switch never came to mind and mental preparations were under way to tear into the ignition when procrastination brought us to this thread. The post by nissanh with detailed photos inspired a change in course which led directly to the problem. Our Neutral Safety Switch was discovered hanging on loose bolts and its wire harness packed with grease. Thanks to the clear instructions from nissanh, the unit was removed, cleaned and reinstalled in less than an hour. Turn key, crank, start, No Problem.
A perfect example of why this Forum is indeed an invaluable resource.
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05-31-2017, 06:46 PM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mahalas
Pulled out the check engine light bulb.
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lol, thats one way to fix it!
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01-25-2018, 11:39 AM
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#13
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Location: deland florida
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I appreciate the neutral switch post.I am going to follow your directions..i would prefer to keep my original component...its probably good, just grime hopefully and minor adjustment...what did you use to clean both the guts and the copper..thanks
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01-25-2018, 03:33 PM
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#14
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Location: deland florida
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neutral safety switch
Went to the junkyard, removed the switch from a 2001 or 02(mine is 99)..the small nut was a 12mm i think but the large nut was bigger than a 17..a 19mm didnt fit..but it was loose and i managed to unscrew. There is a speedo cable that somewhat interferes with the procedure. I was able to flex the cable out the way to remove the switch. It was stubborn, i expected it to just pull off easily, however, i eventually worked it off. I am going to mess with the one on my car first. Put in neutral and maybe tighten it with the proper wrench. If that fails, I am hoping the one i bought will suffice. The experience will assist no matter.
After reading the posts, i am wondering if the 01 or 02 will interchange with my 1999. Anyway, gotta have this awesome ass vehicle operating correctly.
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01-25-2018, 04:08 PM
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#15
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cleaning
Quote:
Originally Posted by olhobbler
I appreciate the neutral switch post.I am going to follow your directions..i would prefer to keep my original component...its probably good, just grime hopefully and minor adjustment...what did you use to clean both the guts and the copper..thanks
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I just clean the contact points with a sand paper (1000 grit should be good). Make sure to add some dielectric grease before you put the parts together.
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