that first pic of the cluster is exactly what it looks like with the 10 amp "GAUGE" fuse is blown/missing. Fuse panel by your left knee. middle row second one down.

i can also confirm the AC does not function when i pull this fuse. it may kill the entire climate control system, i'm not sure. but the AC light will not come on like it normally does.

i can't comment on any affects on the alternator.

hope this helps.

Thanks! Great info.

I don’t remember if I checked that fuse or not. I think I did, but not really sure. I guess I’ll toss a new one in first thing and see if it gets me anywhere.

I wonder if that fuse will cut power to the alternator? Or trick the computer into thinking the engine isn’t running with no engine signal and cut the power from the alt?

Yes. Power from the gauge fuse turns on the alternator regulator.

-Charlie

thanks!

If this is the case. Anyone know why it would’ve randomly blown? Or could something else cause it to go? Could be an old fuse.


It must be the fuel gauge that doesn’t operate correctly. It’s pissed because I use the mileage to fill up and have the 4gal rotopax up top if I do run out. Hahaha

Thank you to everyone for your input and suggestions!

Solution: 10a Gauge fuse.

All is working again.


Still don’t know why it blew in the first place, but hopefully it doesn’t happen again.




14.1-2 at idle.

Haven’t driven it yet, but will post back if it blows again.

Update 1:

Drove to church and back this morning without any issues. 14.1v. When I checked when I got home it was holding 13.6v at idle and throttle sitting in the driveway.

Just cranked it again and it was at 14.1v, then made a terrible noise so I shut it off. Had the wife restart it while I was looking at the belts and it made no noise, but the A/C compressor pulley had a pretty bad wobble to it.
The backside of that pulley is where all the melted plastic had been flung from.

I think that’s probably what was the initial cause of the fuse blowing. So it looks like I’ll be buying a new compressor unless the bearing is sold separately.

You've likely started melting the magnet assembly. The bearing might still be
good. The clutch pack is available separately, ~$120 up at Rock Auto. That
saves you more expensive parts (assuming the system is cooling normally
otherwise) and a refrigerant recharge. Clutch is DIY.

Thanks!

It’s cools just fine, but nowhere near as cold as it should be. I tried the auto parts store refrigerant refill last summer, but was unsuccessful. Followed the directions and the gauge showed no change and it didn’t get any colder.


Update 2:

Attempted to do a 30 min drive to the parkway for a hike and watched it go from 14.1-13.7v. Pulled over 10 min into the drive. Shut it off and restarted to see if it reset anything. Nothing. Dropped to 13.6v and drove back home. Went back up to 13.8v, but pulled in the driveway with 13.7v.

Just went to advance for a battery check out of the vehicle:



That was done about 1.5 hours after parking it w/ 13.6v.

Bought a new battery and will have them test the alternator in the morning after a 30 min drive.

Update 3:

I guess I’m just paranoid now. Haha

I was told 13.5-14 was a normal operating voltage range while driving.

New Autocraft Platinum AGM battery from Advance. Previous was an Autocraft Silver I was pretty happy with.

Test completed after a 10 min drive to my local Toyota dealer, 10 min inside, and 10 min drive to the Advance by my house. 14.2 when I left home and 13.9v when I shut it off in the Advance parking lot.

New battery and Alternator test results:





He said everything looks good.
Loaded was with, running lights, HID fogs and HID high beams on plus A/C on COLD and full blast.


Do I install the new brushes that should be delivered today or leave it as is?


The A/C compressor pulley appears to only wobble when the A/C clutch is engaged.

Alternator voltage changes with temperature (batteries charge differently at different temps). Higher when colder (vehicle just started) and lower when warm/hot (after running or a hot day). 13.6 and above for most conditions (and above 14.0 when cool) is normal.

I don't see how the AC clutch going out could cause the gauge fuse problem. Fix it anyway though, of course!

-Charlie

Thanks, Charlie.

Makes sense. Drove 20 min to the airport and back home about 1.5hr later and seems to be running fine with voltage fluctuating between 13.6 and 14.2. I think the alternator is fine...

I bought a new drier and o-ring from the dealer this morning. Going to buy a new Denso compressor online soon. I figure if I just replace the clutch assembly I’ll realize halfway through the job there’s something wrong with the compressor and I don’t want to do the job twice. Lol
Going to replace the alternator brushes while I’m at it.
Will also look into doing the timing belt/water pump if I’m due for it again.

Just drove 3 hours to work and no issues. Every time I looked at the voltage it was 14v.

So far so good!

Update 4:

Car sat from 3pm-10:30pm. I started it up and I then noticed the odometer was blank..

Blew the gauge fuse again. Ugh...

Update 5:

This morning the fuse blew again 5 min into the drive.

This afternoon it blew right after startup.

I tried a new fuse while it was running and it blew.

I tried removing the A.C. fuse in the engine fuse block, still blew the gauge fuse.

Tried shutting off the A/C right after cranking and that seemed to work.

This leads me to believe it is the A/C compressor/clutch thats somehow causing the fuse to blow.

The pulley/clutch is pretty loud now that the bearing is shot.

I ordered just about everything so when it arrives in a week I’ll get to it.

Ordered:
Compressor - 190
Condenser - 45
Drier - 10
Evaporator core - 100
Expansion valve - 15
Total: $360 for all new Denso from Rock Auto

Did I miss anything??

Figured I’d do it all instead of just the compressor.


I’ll just be driving around with no A/C till I can get it all done...

Does the dash fuse still blow with the underhood as fuse removed?

If your dash fuse is still blowing with the engine bay ac fuse removed then the compressor is not your problem. With the engine bay ac fuse out your ac compressor cannot engage at all. You most likely have a wiring issue in your instrument panel wiring harness.