09-22-2022, 01:53 PM
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#226
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Nelson, BC
Posts: 2,552
Real Name: Addison
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Nelson, BC
Posts: 2,552
Real Name: Addison
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Currently hunting for a 1UZ myself. Just missed a 95' last week. Curious if yours is VVTI or not?
Keep it!
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09-25-2022, 01:21 PM
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#227
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Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 325
Real Name: chad morrison
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Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 325
Real Name: chad morrison
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickashay
Currently hunting for a 1UZ myself. Just missed a 95' last week. Curious if yours is VVTI or not?
Keep it!
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mine if not the VVTI just because of my intentions and availability as well.. i plan on boosting it down the road and i wanted the thicker rods (89-94) because i think you know how i ride.. i wanted to run bigger boost and be able to bump the rpm higher with the standalone, i planned on putting in bigger valve springs and ARP bolts/MLS gasket so i can get the rpm to above 8400 reliably.. i also got the engine from a junkyard for $300 and you see 90-97 ls400's around me all the time so i figured it would be the safer play if something catastrophic happens..
the VVTI wouldve been the best route and more fuel efficient but theyre harder to find around me, and you basically need an entire donor car for the immobilizer, transponder, the key to the transponder, the VVTI harness & the ecu itself.. the wiring is a little more tricky but if you get to that point DM me on instagram and i have an abundance of gathered info on making the vvti stuff work.
heres a picture on the rod sizes, you can swap the non vvti rods into a vvti engine but its more work than what i would want to do, i want this a reliable setup rather than a setup that is focused to achieve numbers
a huge reason i didnt want to even bother with a 2uz is the power/weight ratio (i dont want a iron block v8 if its not an LS/LT engine, it is a complete waste of time for the power gain), the rods are the smallest in thickness, the aftermarket support is a little more tricky to find, as you've seen a (few) 2uz swaps on these things, vs the amount of 1uz swaps people do on their vehicles & pickup chassis. a big argument is 2uz's have way more "low end power" but i dont need the low end power when i have a dual transfer case.. the power in lucy with the 37s is good enough, i want the mid to higher end power for towing with manual. the lower end power automatically comes with the swap of a v8 vs a garbage 300k mile 5vz so im not too worried. not to mention the better power/weight it evens out!! hope some of this info helped
Last edited by T4Rchadly; 09-25-2022 at 01:33 PM.
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10-19-2022, 12:48 AM
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#228
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Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 325
Real Name: chad morrison
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Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 325
Real Name: chad morrison
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progress is progress
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10-22-2022, 03:08 PM
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#229
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Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 325
Real Name: chad morrison
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Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 325
Real Name: chad morrison
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Last edited by T4Rchadly; 10-22-2022 at 03:13 PM.
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11-06-2022, 08:25 PM
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#230
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Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 325
Real Name: chad morrison
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Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 325
Real Name: chad morrison
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one of the biggest deals that needed to be fixed asap if i was going to drive this heffer again every day was it needs to drive without me wanting to commit.. (yes you know what im talking about) my rear lower links have been toast since my colorado trip and is TERRIFYING to drive with, hence i didnt drive it a single time up until i sold the GS. I went to the junkyard and talked the worker into saying these are swaybar links.. $9 later, i have two 350k mile lower links the old ones were HAMMERED, the bushings werent even connected, and one was bent. it atleast drives like it doesnt want to kill me now but you can still tell the truck shifts and is extyremely loose.. whatever.
I have better stuff to do.. my fender has been screwed up from various events and cant really open my door, my lower portion keeps ripping the sheet metal screws, i was tired of being janky. fixed the fender to be "acceptable" and installed a plus nut on the bottom so i can go back to bolting it in. from my tub job i had to cut the OEM lower mount off so i sheet metal screwed it in, What are plus nuts?? this is the comparion to a standard rivnut. it provides far more clamping force, but is a little bit bigger in surface area.
Its clean... but somethings missing
I took all my lights off and sold other than the XL80's, theyll be back, just not as a ditch light. i wanted to go back to the grandpa look as i realized i hate how this thing has been looking lately, and it was never my intended goal, so i put my self back on track. no projector, i am going back to blinding people with LED's in reflector housing (o well, srry people)
also finally mounted my fire extinguisher after months (5/16 plus nuts to mount)
as said, lucy drives fat better, but theres still wacky shifts when braking, harder acceleration. I had to go to the junkyard to get some corner light stuff because mine broke from the amber halos, etc, i wanted everything to be factory. i ended up finding a boned 4runner with poly bushing entire rear end. i snagged all pieces and it came out around $110 i think, that specific junkyard screws people on price, but at the same time just the lower bushings alone were like $80 and i dont have to spend the time pressing everything. im happy enough & my upper 300k mile links were completely smoked and completely loose. heres some before and afters of everything. dirves fantastic now
A really annoying issue ive been having is my suction cup for my garmin is almost useless and falls off super easy after about 3 years of use. i ened up making a RAM mount setup and a 19mm to 1 inch ball adapter to physically mount the garmin. everything is rock solid and im super content. i will be adding cigarette lighters and two quick USB chargers ontop of the dash to clean wiring up and have more USB outles (i seem to run out of all my outlets constantly somehow) i will do a pretty in depth tutorial on how i did everything when i get it done, i dont really see anyone doing this
Last edited by T4Rchadly; 11-06-2022 at 08:30 PM.
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11-08-2022, 03:34 PM
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#231
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Nelson, BC
Posts: 2,552
Real Name: Addison
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Nelson, BC
Posts: 2,552
Real Name: Addison
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Stoked on the dual cases and motor swap updates.
How did you clean all the engine parts? Just good ol' wire brush and simple green or something more extreme? Taking notes...
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11-08-2022, 08:10 PM
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#232
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Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 325
Real Name: chad morrison
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Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 325
Real Name: chad morrison
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickashay
Stoked on the dual cases and motor swap updates.
How did you clean all the engine parts? Just good ol' wire brush and simple green or something more extreme? Taking notes...
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i have been using a steam cleaner with all purpose degreaser. its not ideal but it does a descent job and gets everything clean. i wish i had a parts cleaner because the steam cleaner takes a very long time in comparison. its not terrible but its not ideal if that makes sense
Amazon.com - McCulloch MC1375 Canister Steam Cleaner with 20 Accessories, Extra-Long Power Cord, Chemical-Free Cleaning for Most Floors, Counters, Appliances, Windows, Autos, and More, 1-(Pack), Black - Carpet Steam Cleaners
this is the specific product i use. i have it for random car detailing stuff for personal use, and decided to try it on the car parts and it worked pretty good so ive been running it since
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11-10-2022, 12:28 AM
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#233
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Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 325
Real Name: chad morrison
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Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 325
Real Name: chad morrison
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Dashboard USB/Cigarette outlets
I have been trying to do this project thats been in my head for a little now, and i figured id do another tutorial while im at it. I've been trying to change my power location and add more USB power for awhile, but didnt want to see form my cockpit. My power wire has been getting pinched and my shit boot always pops out from the pressure and i want access to the main cigarette lighter for awhile now, and you guys know i hate messy wiring by now.. lets see if this idea works out..
tools used
-calipers
-sharpie
-screw driver #2 phillips
-90 degree drill
-1 1/8" hole saw
-knife
remove main dash bezel
remove HVAC face vent
remove heating cable from the socket by pulling back, and then pull on the cable itself to give you slack to remove the actual hook. this will give you the room for your 90 degree drill and 1 1/8" holesaw bit
looking inside out of the dash, theres a middle section thats flat, so i found the middle via calipers and ran a pilot bit and then the hole saw. this is just a test hit before i completely total out my dash
Times for a second hole. i did this 1 1/4" to the side, eye to eye.
At this point i have both outlets mounted, and im ready for wiring. my plan was splicing into the OEM cigarette lighter, and making a removable harness. so this is what i came up with. a main wire with a jumper to the other outlet. super clean
I had to cut the vent so everything fite without bending. i dont notice and face vent loss of power, and i doubt it heats it enough to do damage.
It turned out exactly how i imagined it. only has power on ignition, and i no longer see the wiring and have extra charge space now
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11-26-2022, 04:46 AM
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#234
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Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 325
Real Name: chad morrison
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Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 325
Real Name: chad morrison
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more how-to stuff: rear hating
you guys know i have been on a tangent with "simplifying" lucy, deleting the most amount of stuff possible that i dont use or need, while still making everything comfortable. along with other things on the chopping block, lets just get this out of the way first. one time in moab alex, chase, hayden & i were messing around in the sand dunes one night and alex developed a weird leak.. we found that either his rear seating heater core or the line itself had cracked and was leaking coolant. we ended up bypassing the rear heating and got mroe coolant in the system. it spooked me out and ive seen it happen on a few different 4runners now. thus, another tutorial on how i completely deleted my rear heating. i do not have a lot of people sitting in the back, and i usually have the passenger seat blocked from my sleeping platform, so i dont think the rear heater does too much regardless. lets get on with it
1. these are your rear heating core lines, we'll name them O and G.
2. you will remove the end of G where it mates to the heater core tube that goes underneath the vehicle. you will then remove O at the heater valve junction that is bolted to the firewall. remove the spring clamp and install into G. you will link G into that junction
3. you now need to remove 3 10mm bolts. one half way down the firewall, one next to the catalytic converter, and one being the heater core "guard"
4. you will remove O from the heater core. you will then remove G from the heater core tube, and link it into the heater core where O was. this will make a closed loop. remove heater core coolant tube (i cut the line in half to make removal fast)
5. youve now removed the rear heating system of your 4runner. to take it to a further step, ive decided to remove the heater core and rear HVAC itself. i removed the seats, and center console. removed the 5 screws holding the HVAC in, and removed the grommet.
6. take the control valve from center console out with the HVAC system
7. OPTIONAL: install preferred sound deadening to decrease slight road noise decibel, and additional sound system acoustics.
Last edited by T4Rchadly; 11-26-2022 at 02:19 PM.
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11-30-2022, 02:28 AM
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#235
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Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 325
Real Name: chad morrison
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Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 325
Real Name: chad morrison
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dual transfer case
its been long overdue of getting this NWF case in, but i finally have everything done. i am super picky in terms of quality for parts, so lets see how this goes.
i decided to use 85-140 SAE gear oil to break things in for a couple thousand miles and then go to synthetic
tom woods driveshatfs. both were the baddest units i could get in terms of tubing thickness. these things are hefty especially with the new 1310 joints
getting the OEM case took approx 15 minutes or less. take out the outpu/input shaft adapter and install to new NWF input shaft
heres when the first round of things gets frustrating.. you only hear the good things with these kits so far, and ill give my honest input. For $4,000, (including driveshafts) you get only what assembles the dual case kit, with the NWF case kit being around $3,000. you are given zinc coated hardware that rust over time, you are forced to ruin a 13mm wrench that they dont include ( you need to bend a wrench 90 degrees. my stubby wrenches and my snapon bent wrench set were too large ), the top two studs are near impossible to tighten, some of the shifters were pre-loose internally inside of the triple stick units (had to take them apart to loctite and tighten), my biggest gripe being you are given no gasket for the triple sticks and you are forced to use RTV. Inside one of the shifter plates, is a seal held in by a machined o-ring. NWF doesn't give you RTV, a gasket, and didnt machine an o ring to keep an oil seal onto of the shift plates. For $3,000, youd think you wouldnt have to use stone-age RTV when theres already machining done for o rings on other parts of that kit. theres more down the road but lets finish the install.
i replaced a output seal they didnt include (again, im being whiney but for $3,000 i expected a little more) it was kind of weird the $25 oem seal was a different size than the original one that was in it. the space was SUPER hard to work with while the transfer case was clocked at 16 degrees, although you can see if pulls the drop pretty far up now. because of the casing fill and drain being parallel, i had to put lucy at a big angle to get all the gear oil in lol, i got a lil sketchy with it. at this point, first initial drive the transfer case smacks and vibrates on the trans tunnel immediately. i banged it with a hammer but wasnt good enough.
after about 20 minutes of driving, i took a double check on my work to find out it was PISSING oil out of 3 spots.. i dump oil, and take care of one. NWF doesnt state to use any sort of thread sealer on the lid, so i just tightened them down. i now know YOU NEED TO APPLY THREAD SEALANT on all thread ports of the lid. i find the second leak.. for some reason my RTV didnt work.. and lastly, the top right detent plug was leaking. i thread sealed the 19mm plug on the bottom, ill just do this top one. THE STUPID STUD IS BLOCKING IT.. super annoying, ill just take the stud out. THEY MADE IT TOO LONG and i cant remove the stud. so, time to drop the case again.
taking the case out, 2 cups full of gear oil spills out. the seal i got from toyota wasnt correct. so a full day of running to parts stores, i found that the seal from toyota is a new super-seeded PN for a "newer case" they said. i found the correct seal, and installed it. i will give all length dimensions of shafts, same with part numbers i had to use to install this case. again, NWF couldve easily supplied this $7 seal with the kit. these are the differences
old, front & new, on the rear. the new correct seal is 5mm tall while the old OEM one being 2mm, not even sealing the input shaft
the vibration with the transfer case clocked at 16 degrees was annoying so i changed it to 10 degrees. i also removed both stupid top studs. DO NOT INSTALL THE TOP TWO STUDS ON YOUR NWF CASE. serviceability is vital. i installed 2 Stainless steel torx bolts that are removable instead, it was a lot easier to install as well given theres no room. i also fixed the RTV leak on the rear-side triple stick unit. everything is finally fixed. man handled the beast back in and drove it.. ANOTHER LEAK from somewhere up top. super frustrated with how many leaks im having. my entire frame/ axle is soaked in gear oil
i know i am being very whiney and nitpicky. for a $4,000 install, id hope its a completely flawless setup in my mind. this is the most expensive case on the market, and i feel like they could've done more if im being honest in terms of serviceability and hardware. enough of the nagging
i am very insanely stoked on this dual case and 4 lo lo is ABSURD, it is awesome. my new crawl ratio is now at 123:1 ! this is something ive been wanting to do to lucy since ownership and im glad i finally got it done. i am trying to get a bunch of things done before one of my first trips set in april and this was the biggest piece i needed. the NWF lid/base setup is friggen BEEF and i have a lot of peace at mind with my input shaft being chromoly. it sounds like a lot of bigger tire people go thru input shafts with their marlin/TG setup.
Last edited by T4Rchadly; 11-30-2022 at 02:38 AM.
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12-01-2022, 02:58 AM
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#236
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Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 325
Real Name: chad morrison
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Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 325
Real Name: chad morrison
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12-01-2022, 10:26 PM
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#237
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 1,165
Real Name: Robert');DROP TABLE Students;
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 1,165
Real Name: Robert');DROP TABLE Students;
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Is this the ecocrawler or something else? Have you got it buttoned up and no longer leaking or are you still fighting it?
I think I'd be well into the four letter word section of my vocabulary at this point too.
__________________
2001 SR5 - Like OEM, only worse (gears, e-locker, armor)
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12-04-2022, 12:19 PM
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#238
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Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 325
Real Name: chad morrison
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Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 325
Real Name: chad morrison
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thezentree
Is this the ecocrawler or something else? Have you got it buttoned up and no longer leaking or are you still fighting it?
I think I'd be well into the four letter word section of my vocabulary at this point too.
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yes its the eco crawler !
i havent looked at the new leak yet. skiing has been more important now that my shoulder is finally good enough to "take it easy"
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12-04-2022, 12:41 PM
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#239
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Member
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 325
Real Name: chad morrison
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Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 325
Real Name: chad morrison
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new bumper day
ive been tired of no cleareance, approach, how heavy the ARB was, and the fact that the winch housing was too small for me to use the 100 foot winch-line, making my winch useless pretty much. knowing EVERYONE wants an ARB for some reason, i present you
sold it within 30 minutes posting for a pretty penny... i didnt really lose any money buying vs selling
at this point, ive been wanting tube front bumper for awhile. there wasnt many options and i dont own a tube bender. my only option was addicted offroad which ive heard good things about, other than approach angle. thus, my journey on achieving better approach angle
the orignal way youre supposed to mount this, is the same way for an ARB. bolt thru the frame horn, two bolts on the bottom. after a test fit, the approach wasnt great, as expected upon purchase
first set of trimming: i kind of had a guideline from a friend on how he pushed it back 1.5", but i ended up being able to take advantage of 2" somehow. i forgot to take before measurement pictures unfortunately otherwise id include before and after measurements. i cut 1.75" off my frame horn, followed by cutting about 1.25" off the side of the addicted offroad mounting crossmember. i had to cut out my original skid plate mount to do this
chopped frame, untouched crossmember
sucked back in. at this point the framehorn wasnt flush with the crossmember end, so i cut more crossmember and pushed it back the last approx. 1/4 inch. again ive failed and forgot to take pictures
test fits with the new 2001-2002 grille
kinda looks good like this welded the crossmember in along with a few gussets for bracing. i had to mount the skidplate to the bottom of the crossmember. i used two m10 bolts to secure the budbuilt crossmember. an issue is that its sucked really tight against the diff drop and its now spring-loaded. dont really know what to do about it i need to call some bigger offroad friends on ideas
winter mode back in plus new bumper!! really excited on the new look. i will be adding headlight hoops in and i need to put in my XL80's and my winch in still. lastly, the before and afters of approach angle of pushing the crossmember back
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12-06-2022, 02:33 PM
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#240
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Member
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: San Francisco Ca
Posts: 872
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: San Francisco Ca
Posts: 872
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@ T4Rchadly
nice job on the bumper, looks great! I did the same thing with my hybrid AOR bumper. I think you got it sucked in just a tad bit more than I did though.
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