[GhostRing]

Originally Posted by T4Rchadly

-delete ABS

I have poked around a bit in regards to how to safely and easily do this.
I already pulled the fuse years ago, now I want the rest of the system cleaned up.
Looking forward to any info you can provide as you continue this amazing build!

[T4Rchadly]

Originally Posted by GhostRing

I have poked around a bit in regards to how to safely and easily do this.
I already pulled the fuse years ago, now I want the rest of the system cleaned up.
Looking forward to any info you can provide as you continue this amazing build!

i never really found a good and detailed ABS delete thread so im going to try to make it super informed on what and how i did so you guys can do the same. i plan on taking out the pump,fuse, wires, change to mechanical speedo sensor (i want my speedo and cruise control), and may take out the module depending if everything works without it

[T4Rchadly]

ive been hard at work, im on crunch time getting the 4runner done before memorial weekend and i got the rear tubbed. onto the front. im goig to chop out the wheel wells, retub the firewall, and i have a lil sneaky shortly after. may not be doable before memorial day weekend but itll be close. anyways this is the progress ive been doing. i cut quite a bit out. over 4" of material






full bump centered wheel





this is when things get interesting.. i mightve found a good deal on facebook.












then some maintenance. my truck barely runs right now, and im not too sure what it is right now. i think its fuel related. spark plug looked decent but was following misfires wherever id swap the plug to.






i had a huge sturggle installing the LT and the majority of it was that PO installed a 18" coil rather than the 16". ontop of that i dont have limit straps in yet. the truck needs to be wheelable on next wednesday i am doing a huge wheeling and offroad trip. ill talk more in depth when i get everything up front dialed in

[Dezert4Runner]

That looks like a JD Fabrication kit. I just installed a new one a couple months ago myself. The coilover mounts I was originally given were designed for a Tacoma and didn’t work because they were clocked wrong with the coil bucket holes, so they made me some mounts that work (luckily I’m close enough to drive 20 minutes to their shop).

Did you check the steering stops on the LBJ? They most likely make contact before full lock due to the width of the lower arm being significantly wider near the end of the arm so you’ll need to grind them down quite a bit.

Also, you should definitely double shear that heimed tie rod outer to avoid issues on the trail later. Not saying it’s guaranteed to give you problems, but they do recommend running them in double shear.

[T4Rchadly]

Originally Posted by Dezert4Runner

That looks like a JD Fabrication kit. I just installed a new one a couple months ago myself. The coilover mounts I was originally given were designed for a Tacoma and didn’t work because they were clocked wrong with the coil bucket holes, so they made me some mounts that work (luckily I’m close enough to drive 20 minutes to their shop).

Did you check the steering stops on the LBJ? They most likely make contact before full lock due to the width of the lower arm being significantly wider near the end of the arm so you’ll need to grind them down quite a bit.

Also, you should definitely double shear that heimed tie rod outer to avoid issues on the trail later. Not saying it’s guaranteed to give you problems, but they do recommend running them in double shear.

yeah i was having issues with the JD fab kit and steering, lbj's contacting the LCA. i ended up grinding the stubs off, grinded the insides in preperation to "bombproof" that lower balljoint and made a brace. i am trying to turn the LBJ into a uniball setup as well

thats good to know about the double shear part, i will weld another tab ASAP. thanks for the input!

[T4Rchadly]

well ive got everything pretty much dialed in, i should've put more time into it this weekend but ive been working on it for quite a few hours every single day so i played around this weekend. ive been driving it around and all i have to do left is adjust ride height and adjust alignment one more time. i installed the 16" coil spring rather than those 18s and installed 8" limit straps. because i limited my DT, i can unload the coil way more which is what i want, the front sits a little higher than what i'd like. the current height was great to get a feel for things and i am beyond stoked to have the kit on. i still need to figure out BJ issue (im looking into options but i probably wont do anything on this rock crawling trip and suffer the turning radius)

anyways, this is what i got going on. any input would be greatly appreciated, as well as if anyone has questions ill do my best to do an in depth explanation.










the truck looks mean with the 37s!!! i installed a cold air intake in prep for taking out the wheel wells. i meant to do it already although the LT got in the way, and i have wheeling trips planned this next week. i didnt want to put my luck with timing. im pretty against cold air intakes just because i think they sound annoying, dont do too much performance, etc etc, but MAN did it make this engine come alive! it HAULS now! it did not perform like this at all, the $60 was a good investment so far. i do want to get a higher quality nose cone for better dust filtering.

[alexperrucci]

Looks insane! What's the BJ issue?

[T4Rchadly]

Originally Posted by alexperrucci

Looks insane! What's the BJ issue?

contacting the arm far before the steering rack is fully locked outr at static height

[T4Rchadly]

Originally Posted by Dezert4Runner

That looks like a JD Fabrication kit. I just installed a new one a couple months ago myself. The coilover mounts I was originally given were designed for a Tacoma and didn’t work because they were clocked wrong with the coil bucket holes, so they made me some mounts that work (luckily I’m close enough to drive 20 minutes to their shop).

Did you check the steering stops on the LBJ? They most likely make contact before full lock due to the width of the lower arm being significantly wider near the end of the arm so you’ll need to grind them down quite a bit.

Also, you should definitely double shear that heimed tie rod outer to avoid issues on the trail later. Not saying it’s guaranteed to give you problems, but they do recommend running them in double shear.

dezert, do you run into bad bump steer with your heim steering? my bump steer is OUT OF THIS WORLD, i just came back from a long trip i will soon post about, i am trying to figure this heim steering out before i weld my shear tabs i made

[Dezert4Runner]

Originally Posted by T4Rchadly

dezert, do you run into bad bump steer with your heim steering? my bump steer is OUT OF THIS WORLD, i just came back from a long trip i will soon post about, i am trying to figure this heim steering out before i weld my shear tabs i made

I haven’t done any hard wheeling since installing the LT, and recently installed 35’s and need to tub the firewall before I really put it to the test. I’ve done minimal cycling since I was waiting to throw on 35’s, tub, and set limit straps and hydro bumps. Still a work in progress since it’s my daily and I can’t have it down for more than a weekend. I’m not sure if it’s your tie rods being set the right length or geometry of this kit you’re having issues with. Have you had alignment done on a machine? I guess you could call JD Fab and pick their brain on it.

[T4Rchadly]

after the last post i went to moab that weekend with less than 50 miles on the long travel (i live 29 from work, so 21 miless off of a highway) and the truck drove terribly.... it went everywhere and the bump steer was TERRIFYING. when i aired down to 8psi it was time to see what happens on moab rim by myself.. THE 37S AND THE LONG TRAVEL EATS!!!! i am blown away. went all the way up the rim and back down in less than 2 hours trying some really dumb stuff




i need to crank down the limit straps as they click in 4x4 and immediatly tore boots... made my way to poison spider where i went up the massive wall for the first time where you have to do that hairpin towards the beginning. it got a little western but i am blown away from its capability and for me committing without a spotter, i was pretty impressed with myself. a little further away i went up the section to the left where its a stair near the edge. i engage my front locker and my steering wheel instantly RAMS to the passenger and snaps another CV before i even had reaction time, never happened before so i blamed the steering situation and also bent an inner tie rod along with the CV. this is where things get interested from here on out on this trip...



the AC soon stopped working and it was mid 90s so that sucked, and now i have crazy steering issues WITH a bent inner. i forgot my toe plates so i eyeballed allignment as i was too angry to just pull the measuring tapes out and allign myself somehow. i continued down south for memorial day and stopped to take pictures



make my way into arizona and back thru into utah












this is when sh*t gets wild and the whole beginning of the end deal makes sense...

[T4Rchadly]

i am 1400 miles into this trip and remember that eyeball allignement? front tires now cupped. anyways, stuff started getting loud slowly after a span of 4-5 hours of driving offroad @ 20psi.. then, the 4runner just fell..






the balljoint left the chat... up until i noticed that I FORGOT THE COTTER PINS. the nut loosened and stripped out of the joint... the body damage couldve been worse, not. big deal.. lets get the jack... forgot the jack because it was supposed to be a chill weekend of OvErLaNdInG i got the truck jacked up sketchily, were good. just gotta change the balljoint now. I FORGOT TO DRILL MY SPARES TO 5/8 FOR MY HEIMS wow i am dumb, never rushing a test trip again, whatever.. atleast my drill and 5/8 bit is with me... I FORGOT THE 5/8 DRILL BIT NEXT TO THE TOE PLATES I LEFT i fiure out a way to retap the nut on and put a cotter pin in.. it the CV instantly so i use my second spare i keep with me, and ive blown up my two new tundra CV axles. it ended bending my inner tie rod even more and i again eye ball it. this in return made it so the steering is unbearable. i baby it home, and get a nail in my brand new tire and it debeads my wheel before i realized somethings wrong. i reset the bead and plug the tire and make it home.. what a trip...... at this point i dont even want to look at my truck, and i found a deal for my friend who i really want to get into toyotas with me. he actually bought it. he lives in idaho and the truck was in salt lake so i pick it up and drive it for awhile.. ( a full week joy riding it while the GS and 4runner stay at home)... i kind of fell in love.. *key turning point* my old kings go in it and get the ride height looking great... cranked it down 7 turns and it rode AMAZING





a couple weeks later i finally have someone motivation to work on the 4runner... only because im getting rid of it. yep, its the sad truth.... the things i want to do to my 4runner vs realities just isnt there.. i have been hoarding parts ive been excited too show but i am no longer putting them on the 4runner as im in search of a crew cab 1st gen and getting rid of lucy, putting the parts on the tacoma (when i get)... ill give more detail later, ive gone off topic

[T4Rchadly]

theres a long list to get this thing sell ready for what i want to ask for lucy. ($20-21,000 OBO)i feel like it is a valid price for today, good luck building it for cheaper without any shortcuts. im very happy with what ive done to the truck and its capabilities blow me away

ac was dead. idk much about AC but i know how to use our machine at our work somehow, these were pressures and this is what AC blew @ 94 degrees. i thought there was an open system but its been holding up for a couple of weeks, seems to be fine




next was tie rod, along with 2 pairs of balljoints so i can have a spare. the reason i got 2 pairs was the balljoints are shaped differently from tacoma balljoints vs 4runner balljoints. long story short the tie rod mounts are 5/8 and taller. my heim was ontop of the 4runner balljoint but after talking to harry at JD fab thats where my bumpsteer came from so i changed to the bottom and the big majority of my issues went away. bump steer, camber change, toe change, etc etc. it drives great other than its super twitchy now but atleast its not scary to drive. i think its potentially related to caster so i will play with that this weekend






i had to grind off all of the steering stop on the balljoint units. this is what they look like to fit the JDF long travel for 3rd gen 4runner, 1st gen tacoma.
getting around to painting my fender cut, banged up driver fender ( raptor liner cracked off. i sanded and resprayed with raptor liner again. great product IMO






shampoo the entire carpet/ platform setup. it turned out great, but did take 9 hours






i will make yet another list of what needs to be done with a bit of more explanation on why im selling too. i will be wheeling and driving it up until it sells

[Bad Luck]

Man what a roller coaster ride! It’ll be sad to see you move on to another platform, but when it’s not working out you gotta move on to what will. I’m glad you figured out your bump steer issue

[T4Rchadly]

Originally Posted by Bad Luck

Man what a roller coaster ride! It’ll be sad to see you move on to another platform, but when it’s not working out you gotta move on to what will. I’m glad you figured out your bump steer issue

its a bummer for me just for the bond and sentimental. value ive created with it! ive driven it 94,000 miles in 3 years since i purchased it in alaska i of course will be doing a new build thread once i sell this and get a new platform, but it will unfortunately probably be posted on tacomaworld instead