not sure how to do this as it don't have a negative and positive terminal to hook to.

So, where the plastic plug goes into the connector on the starter is where you would apply 12 volts to.

Ignore the red arrow and circle, it's the black plug in the lower right corner of this image:



For the ground, just clamp/hold it to the case of the starter. With the ground clamped/applied to the case of the starter, when you apply 12 volts to the contact in the plug, you should here the solenoid plunger click. It's unmistakably loud, so you can't miss it.

If that works, then with jumper cables (you'll need the larger wire to do this), clamp the negative to the case and then touch the positive to this terminal (see image). Hold onto it or have it in a vice, the motor is pretty powerful. This terminal is what provides power to the starter motor once the solenoid plunger makes contact and is normally not connected.



If these all work properly, then it's something up stream such as the starter relay. In my mind it has to be the starter relay that's bad, so you may want to fiddle with jumping contacts on that first before spending the time removing the starter, which is a bit of a PITA.

Ok, what we did yesterday was clamp at jumper cable to the positive on the battery and ran it around to the starter hot that was still on it. Then we clamped the negative on the battery with the other jumper and ran it around touched the starter body and another part on the frame area to get a ground and we heard nothing. Is what your describing the same technique? We left the starter plugged in and wired up the whole time we did this. Did I do it correctly?

That would bypass the starter wire from the battery, but you would then still need to turn the key as if to start it to get the solenoid to make contact (with the loud click) and subsequently have the starter motor turn over the engine.

The contact with the bolt in this image (just to the right of the red circle) is where the positive battery wire connects to the solenoid:

I think we need to step back a bit here! Grab the multimeter and start debugging.

- Are you getting a check-engine light when the key is in the "ON" position?
- Are all the rest of the normal warning lights on with key "ON"? (ABS, Airbag, oil pressure, etc.)
- What is the resting battery voltage?
- Are you getting 12V at the starter main power terminal (bolt-on one)?
- Are you getting 12V at the starter trigger wire (smaller one on the connector) with the key in the "START" position?
- Have you checked EVERY fuse? (at this point, pull them and check with the meter for continuity)

-Charlie

This is good advice. I've gone down the rabbit hole with the starter before only to find a bad battery->starter wire connection. You might also want to start by simply cleaning your battery terminals as well. Worth the time just to do for it's own sake.

- Are you getting a check-engine light when the key is in the "ON" position? Yes
- Are all the rest of the normal warning lights on with key "ON"? (ABS, Airbag, oil pressure, etc.) Yes
- What is the resting battery voltage? I will check
- Are you getting 12V at the starter main power terminal (bolt-on one)? We have power
- Are you getting 12V at the starter trigger wire (smaller one on the connector) with the key in the "START" position? Not sure how to check this one..
- Have you checked EVERY fuse? (at this point, pull them and check with the meter for continuity) Pulled every fuse to verify that they are not blown but have not checked continuity though

You'll need to get a test light or multimeter on the connector. Disconnect the wire from the starter and jam the probe in there, then try to start the truck. (it won't start, obviously) If you get 12V there, the problem is your starter. If you don't, the problem is your wiring.

-Charlie

This is the wire that connects to the plug in the lower right of this image:



Pull the plug out, put a meter on it and have a friend/buddy try to start the engine. It should read 12 volts when trying to turn the engine over. From the previous posts, it sounds like it is not getting anything here since you are not hearing the solenoid click.

When I put my test light on the nut it lit up.

And I REALLY appreciate the help. I have done several swaps and this should have been plug and play since all I did was pull the motor and put it right back in. Heck it drove into the garage. LOL

We are talking about the small connector below that - the trigger wire that engages the solenoid. It should have 12V while cranking.

The wire with the nut on it should be 12V all the time (the only unfused power wire in the whole truck!).

-Charlie

You bet. We'll help get this sucker started and running! I know I've gotten tons of help from here, so just trying to give back!

That's a good sign as this is the wire that comes directly off the battery. It doesn't necessarily mean it's a good connection, since it's not drawing much current while not turning the starter motor, but at least we know the wire isn't cut/broken.

Pull that plug and test that you get 12 volts when trying to start the engine. It should have no power when you're not trying to start the engine. This is going to test that the starter relay is good in the engine bay fuse box.

Haven't read the whole thread and not sure if it's a manual or auto but, have you checked to make sure its in park/neutral?

The '98 has some differences but not within that red boundary:

Attached Images

Starting and Ignition 5VZFE.pdf (87.8 KB, 51 views)