[jdob0]

I've beed reading till my eyes hurt every night and can't seem to find any real world experience on which rear coils would work best for towing.I have a bone stock 2000 sr5 with v6, auto and 85k miles. I'm getting ready for a cross country move with the back loaded down and pulling a small trailer with a motorcycle and tools. I wouldn't mind a smallish lift. I'm going to stick with a tire size no larger than 265-75-16. I will also choose a front lift to match the rear. Either tundra 5100 or King coilovers ( had a set on my tacoma and loved them ). Any advice is welcome. thanks

[JayRolla]

Originally Posted by jdob0

I've beed reading till my eyes hurt every night and can't seem to find any real world experience on which rear coils would work best for towing.I have a bone stock 2000 sr5 with v6, auto and 85k miles. I'm getting ready for a cross country move with the back loaded down and pulling a small trailer with a motorcycle and tools. I wouldn't mind a smallish lift. I'm going to stick with a tire size no larger than 265-75-16. I will also choose a front lift to match the rear. Either tundra 5100 or King coilovers ( had a set on my tacoma and loved them ). Any advice is welcome. thanks

The OME 891 coils handles extra weight but most coils that do will net 3" rear lift. You can go with a softer coil and add internal air bags also which works really well.

[theladyviola]

Air Lift 1000 with a union tee and call it a day for about $85. Have one on my other vehicle and will be putting one on the 4Runner when I start towing more weight.


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[jdob0]

Originally Posted by theladyviola

Air Lift 1000 with a union tee and call it a day for about $85. Have one on my other vehicle and will be putting one on the 4Runner when I start towing more weight.


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Was trying to save air bags for a last resort. Any coil ideas ?

[JayRolla]

Originally Posted by jdob0

was trying to save air bags for a last resort. Any coil ideas ?

ome 891

[jdob0]

Originally Posted by JayRolla

ome 891

The 891's give a 3" lift. I wanted to stick with 265-75-16 tires. May look funny with a 3" lift ?

[phattyduck]

OME 906's have the highest spring rate of any off the shelf options. They are also progressive, so should stiffen up better with added weight than many other options.

-Charlie

[jdob0]

Originally Posted by phattyduck

OME 906's have the highest spring rate of any off the shelf options. They are also progressive, so should stiffen up better with added weight than many other options.

-Charlie

I was reading about the 906's. Have you done any towing with these ?

[phattyduck]

Originally Posted by jdob0

I was reading about the 906's. Have you done any towing with these ?

I don't have them yet, thus I left any opinions out of the post...

But, what I can tell you is that they are the springs specifically designed for use with the 4Runner specific 5100's that Bilstein now makes (2" lift, 220 lb spring rate).

http://cart.bilsteinus.com/pdfs/E4-WM5-Y485A00.pdf
http://www.arbusa.com/Uploads/PDF/on...de_current.pdf (search '2906' for spring info in two places)

I'll be doing 5100's (4Runner, not Tundra or Tacoma) and 906 rear springs as my next major mod.

-Charlie

[Tyler James Inc]

Originally Posted by theladyviola

Air Lift 1000 with a union tee and call it a day...

I can't help with coil selection, however, I wanted to address this suggestion.
I would highly advise NOT T'ing air springs. Putting the "air bags" in one circuit will completely induce body roll, causing potentially dangerous situations- especially while towing.
When cornering- or reacting to someone else's careless driving- the suspension is loaded on the outside tire(suspension/airbag/etc). If the air is in one circuit, it will push the air to the inside tire/bag, inducing body roll.
It's essentially adding a sway bar; not an ANTI-sway bay, a SWAY bar!
I hope that makes sense, and I hope anyone who has T'd their air helpers will seriously consider changing that. I promise handling will improve, and it will also be safer.

[jdob0]

Originally Posted by Tyler James Inc

I can't help with coil selection, however, I wanted to address this suggestion.
I would highly advise NOT T'ing air springs. Putting the "air bags" in one circuit will completely induce body roll, causing potentially dangerous situations- especially while towing.
When cornering- or reacting to someone else's careless driving- the suspension is loaded on the outside tire(suspension/airbag/etc). If the air is in one circuit, it will push the air to the inside tire/bag, inducing body roll.
It's essentially adding a sway bar; not an ANTI-sway bay, a SWAY bar!
I hope that makes sense, and I hope anyone who has T'd their air helpers will seriously consider changing that. I promise handling will improve, and it will also be safer.

Thanks for the info. Safety first !

[theladyviola]

Originally Posted by Tyler James Inc

I can't help with coil selection, however, I wanted to address this suggestion.
I would highly advise NOT T'ing air springs. Putting the "air bags" in one circuit will completely induce body roll, causing potentially dangerous situations- especially while towing.
When cornering- or reacting to someone else's careless driving- the suspension is loaded on the outside tire(suspension/airbag/etc). If the air is in one circuit, it will push the air to the inside tire/bag, inducing body roll.
It's essentially adding a sway bar; not an ANTI-sway bay, a SWAY bar!
I hope that makes sense, and I hope anyone who has T'd their air helpers will seriously consider changing that. I promise handling will improve, and it will also be safer.

I've never had that problem crossing the country several times. If I had an onboard compressor, sure I'd keep a dual setup. For the average tow with even weight and manual inflation, I see no problem. Over a couple thousand pounds you should be using a weight distribution hitch anyway. Is what you're saying true? Absolutely. But it's also like saying everyone should have XREAS to decrease body roll or they'll die. Different situations, different criteria.


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[jdob0]

Originally Posted by phattyduck

I don't have them yet, thus I left any opinions out of the post...

But, what I can tell you is that they are the springs specifically designed for use with the 4Runner specific 5100's that Bilstein now makes (2" lift, 220 lb spring rate).

http://cart.bilsteinus.com/pdfs/E4-WM5-Y485A00.pdf
http://www.arbusa.com/Uploads/PDF/on...de_current.pdf (search '2906' for spring info in two places)

I'll be doing 5100's (4Runner, not Tundra or Tacoma) and 906 rear springs as my next major mod.

-Charlie

Do you plan replacing the front coils ?

[theladyviola]

Originally Posted by jdob0

Thanks for the info. Safety first !

http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12183

There's some decent spring rate and lift comparisons in this thread about LC coils on 3rd gens.




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[Tyler James Inc]

Originally Posted by theladyviola

But it's also like saying everyone should have XREAS to decrease body roll or they'll die.

Haha No, it's actually not like that at all. I'm not saying you won't be able to drive across the country several times without crashing; I'm saying your handling will improve drastically if you separate them. Hence why the airbag helper kits come with two separate circuits.
I have quite a bit of experience with air bag suspension, and have had setups configured both ways. I speak from years of experience when I say your handling will improve drastically.
Everyone has the freedom to do whatever they wish, but having them separate is definitely the right way