I think this is what the shop meant when it says the steering wheel is normally adjusted using the tie rods. Fine tuning. This shop said the tie rods were adjusted all the way to one side which I will check this morning by running it up on ramps and looking if I can just see it by turning the wheels back and forth. Thanks for your input!

In my opinion this shop is just blowing smoke up you know where if the adjustment is that far off then something is way wrong. They should be able to spin the tie rod ends so the wheel would go almost all the way around. I would be concerned that one side maybe bottomed out in the Tie rod end and the other may have little holding the other side in. So look at the amount of thread that is sticking out of the Tie rod end that may give you some estimate also take some pic's to show the shop that did the work and ask the manager if this is normal.

I saw an unequal adjustment of the tie rods when I did a steering rack swap for a guy. If the alignment techs are doing things right, you would ideally have an equal amount of threads showing on each outer tie rod. When it's up on the alignment rack they could spend the extra time to get a better balance of adjustment with the tie rods.

I agree but like all shops that make appointments; they have a one hour time frame to do everything. Now I would like to think an experienced tech could easily do a front end alignment, adjust the steering wheel to perfection, and center the tie rods in that hour. If they had to align the back end too then it would take longer of course.

I checked the tie rods on my 98 this morning and one side has about 8 threads showing and the other side only had 2 threads so they weren't lying but not exactly telling the complete truth either.

Another thing I would think all alignment shops would have is a database showing where the large steering wheel alignment would be. In our case it's quite simple; requiring a torx bit and a socket. Possibly a wheel puller if the steering wheel was really tight. Mine came off relatively easy without one.

I agree with the folks who said no shop should send a customer on their way with the steering wheel out of alignment; especially 40 degrees out like mine. Unacceptable.

Thanks again to everyone who helped solve this and I hope it helps someone else in the future.

Not something I would be happy with put if your fine with it ok. One last thought from me find a pic or go to a parts store and ask to see a inner tie rod end and estimate the amount of threads that are holding the amount where you can see the larger amounts of threads. Maybe some one out there can shed some light on this. HAPPY 4th of July

No shop that does alignments is going to take the time to even out the tie rod ends on the rack and then remove your steering wheel to change your steering wheel orientation. All GM vehicles that I work on at my dealership have a key in the steering shaft where the wheel attaches and the steering wheel will only go on 1 way. The OP got a shitty alignment and should get it checked to make sure his toe is still correct. Toe can be way out and the vehicle will still drive straight.

The reason the brake lights are on when it's the lift is they have a tool that they have two tools they use... One extends from the drivers seat to the bottom of the steering wheel and creates pressure to hold the wheel centered. The other uses pressure between the drivers seat and the brake pedal for checking caster.

Here's a link toto the tools on Amazon so you can see how they work: https://www.amazon.com/YAKO-Steering.../dp/B01E75R0W4

The one between the drivers seat and the bottom of the steering wheel most likely slipped and that's why your steering wheel was way off center.

The reason the brake lights are on when it's the lift is one of the two tools they use uses the drivers seat to create pressure between it and the brake pedal to keep the brakes on for checking caster... One extends from the drivers seat to the bottom of the steering wheel and creates pressure to hold the wheel centered.

Here's a link to the tools on Amazon so you can see how they work: https://www.amazon.com/YAKO-Steering.../dp/B01E75R0W4

The one between the drivers seat and the bottom of the steering wheel most likely slipped and that's why your steering wheel was way off center.

Just got back from the alignment/tire shop and they pretty much said the same thing. They said they don't remove steering wheels and stuck by their explanation that the tie rods were maxed out to one side. The said the cross member was 'bent' which prevented them from doing any further adjustment of the steering wheel. I looked; it didn't look bent to me. When I explained to them that it was a 5 minute job to remove the air bag and steering wheel, rotate it to level, then button it up; they said no one does that. I said maybe they should start.

In the end the supervisor handed half my money back and I thanked him for making it right. The car was barely driveable with the steering wheel 40-43 degrees off level. Just using the cruise control with it at the bottom of the wheel was miserable.

My personal thoughts, since he said they did that on old cars, is they should adjust their methods and attitude a bit by being a leader so that people like me don't come back looking to make it right. Just do it. Jeeps and Toyota's must be among the top 5 wheel alignments they do so just learn how to do them, including resetting the steering wheel to center, to give the customer what they paid for. If we have to be charged an extra $20 for an extra 15 minutes of their time; I would be good with that.

I found this to be a true learning experience. Other than one time about 30 years ago when I rebuilt part of a front end on a 70 Camaro; I've never needed a front wheel alignment. I haven't been off roading other than dirt roads but that may change now and I don't hit curbs or potholes. I guess I've just been lucky with the potholes because I ride motorcycles. It becomes second nature to avoid them suckers unless one wants to face plant on the asphalt.

Glad you went back to the shop and questioned there work. As stated before Toe is not a steering angle and you can have it drive straight ahead and still be out of spec. So if you wanted to try and correct the action here is what can be done if you or some one is handy.

On jack stands make a mark on the tie rod ends and the threaded part in a place that will not get rubbed off. Unscrew the jam nut and turn the one with that's out too far in and vise versa Important the turns need to be the same amount. Line up your marks and re tighten the jam nut. Now sit in side unlock the steering wheel turn the wheel till it stops and back the other way counting the amount of turns.

Split the difference now the rack is in the middle of the run. Now if you need to re position the steering wheel the rack is in the middle you can pull the steering wheel and find the best spot. There are precautions you need to take before removing a Steer wheel I sure you can find it here some where. If the steering wheel is a little off don't worry. So in theory you have not changed the Toe angle and could just make the adjustment at the Tie Rod ends. But you got your money back so just take it in and have someone else make sure it's set right.