I've looked everywhere and haven't been able to confirm or deny that the tie rods are the only adjustment for a straight steering wheel.

I had a wheel alignment today and while the steering wheel wasn't straight before (maybe 10 degrees off); it's about 40 degrees off now but the wheels track straight now. So my choice is a messed up alignment or a whacked steering wheel from what I can tell.

Is there another way to straighten the steering wheel or are the tie rods the only way?

On some vehicles the steering linkage can be pulled apart under the dash then realigned and put back together.

This is on my 98 2wd T4R.

Well, for one, you can put the steering wheel on the steering shaft in any particular orientation you want.

What I'd first do is make sure your steering wheel is aligned with your steering rack center. You can figure that out by turning the steering wheel all thew way to each lock and noting the steering wheel orientation. It should be mostly the same, but mirrored left to right. If, when you return the steering wheel to the middle position on the rack, based on your lock to lock testing, the car doesn't drive straight, it's a tierod adjustment issue.

What you don't want to do is align your steering wheel/steering column to drive straight, but have something like 2.5 turns of lock to the right and 1.5 turns of lock to the left. you want the rack centered when driving straight ahead so that you have the same amount of steering deflection available to both sides.

Are you saying the rack can be loosened and slid left or right to straighten the steering wheel? If not; I'm not tracking your meaning. Slight pun intended.

I wish I could find a video to explain this because I'm such a visual person.

Edit: In the video I posted below; I can see the rack cannot be moved. Only sideways adjustment is with the tie rods.

I found this video explaining how to remove the steering column but then saw the splined end can only go in one way in order to install the keeper bolt.

It's at the 19:05 mark then again at the 20:56 mark.

YouTube

Take it back to the alignment shop... One possibility is the use something to keep your sterring wheel straight when they do the alignment and that may have slipped.
I worked for a tire and alignment shop years a go and this would generally happen when the tech got lazy or was hungover.

I'm wondering if the coupling shown at the 24:14 mark can be loosened then the steering wheel turned to the correct position then tightened back up. Anyone know?

YouTube

The steering wheel locks when the key is out or in the off position. I would think that would be an automatic thing to do. If I find I can easily straighten the steering wheel that should be obvious to the alignment tech; I'll ask for a partial refund.

Not sure if things have changed since I worked there but the key was left in the ignition and the wheel unlocked so the tech could move the wheels around when it was on the lift. For vehicles with steering wheels cocked to one side or the other they would lock the steering wheel centered and adjust toe. Even the steering wheel locked allows too much play. No one wants there steering wheel coked 5 degress to one side or the other.

Good point. I did notice the brake lights were on while it was the lift so I asked if that was normal. They said yes. I don't understand why though.

I'll get under the rig in the coolness of the morning and see if there is adjustment at the tie rods. If it's obvious someone was being lazy; I'll ask to speak to their supervisor. It's a locally owned tire shop so I have to be careful and diplomatic. Gotta live here in this small town.

Steering wheel alignment should have been part of the service, at least every time I've had mine aligned since they advertise it as part of the service.

You referenced one of the videos @infamousRNR and I made. Our steering wheel replacement video would better serve you. The steering wheel should be able to turn 2.5 times to the right and 2.5 times to the left. Start with your steering wheel fully locked one way, right or left. Put a piece of tape at the 12 o'clock position. Now turn it 2.5 revolutions back the other way and you should be at center with the piece of tape now at the 6 o'clock position with your wheels pointing straight ahead. Next, turn the steering wheel the other direction to full lock and you should see the piece of tape back at the 12 o'clock position. Now bring it back to center again. Now you can use the video below to remove the steering wheel and put it back on as close to center as you can get it. Just make sure you confirm the clock spring turns 2.5 turns in both directions before putting the steering wheel back on.

Like what was already mentioned, the alignment shop tech should have been able to get the steering wheel straight for you if they knew what they were doing. Sounds like you got a rookie or somebody that just doesn't give a shit with the quality of their work.

I'll be going back to talk with this shop for sure. When I watch the steering wheel video it looks like I can only turn the wheel a few degrees due to the wiring connector sticking up. Maybe it just looks like that in the video. I have a steering wheel puller so I'll be doing this ASAP to see if I can simply pull the steering wheel and turn it to the left about 40 degrees to put it in the right spot then bolt it back together.

Just take it back I would call them asap tell them that it was crooked when you got it if you wait they will say you must have hit something knocking it out of alignment. I used to work on an alignment rack making sure the steer wheel is part of the service.

mtbTim: You're a genius. Pulling the steering wheel and turning it to the proper spot on the splines did the trick. Didn't even need the wheel puller. I did have a little trouble with the airbag screws. On mine they are a T27 size. Had me worried they were stripped when I tried to use a T25. I think I'll do my other one too once it's back on the road. I may even get the shop to give me a free alignment for it since I had to do half the job on this one.

Thanks much. Very much appreciated. This 98' was badly neglected so it's taking me a bit to pull it in tight to get it where it should be. It will never be the prince it once was but it can still be proud royalty.

By the way, after watching your radiator/engine flush video using the Lisle funnel; I decided to get one and give a try. Worked great. Went through about 7 gallons of distilled water but I did wonder if it was really necessary during the flushing part of the operation. I guess since some is always left in the engine it's better to be on the safe side to make sure there aren't any minerals to clog up the heater core or radiator passages.

Thanks again for your help and your videos.
I also used the low pressure pump to completely replace the trans fluid. Again; worked great on both rigs. What I like is it isn't a high pressure pump which might dislodge pieces of debris throughout the transmission. It being low pressure it just flows the fluid like the transmission does when it's running. Good stuff!

Glad you were able to rectify the situation yourself, but centering the steering wheel should be part of the alignment. Giving it back to you with the wheel even further off than when you brought it in was unacceptable. I don't do alignments at my shop, so I always tell customers to insist that the steering wheel be centered when they take their vehicles to any alignment place. A lot of discount tire shops, chains, etc have entry level techs working at them who don't actually know what they are doing or are just too lazy to drive the car then bring it back in for further adjustment to get the wheel centered. To anyone getting an alignment out there, if you get your car back and the wheel isn't centered, bring it right back immediately and tell them it's unacceptable and you want it brought back in and fixed.
FYI: I took off my steering wheel, moved it one tooth and it ended up being slightly off center the other way instead, had to center it by adjusting tie rods.