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Old 01-10-2020, 01:51 PM #16
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Originally Posted by tonte101 View Post
Is there any hope of salvaging a frame that has rust in that area? I have a truck from Rochester, NY, but at this point there's a hole through the floor above the passenger side shock perch thing and some holes on the frame, where the rear trailing arm meets the frame. At this point I'm wondering if it's salvageable, will a welder take this on? Or should i just find another rig and swap over the 4wd driveline. PINA.... solid work
Rust is a case by case situation. You'll have more luck taking it to an actual fabrication shop but they'll be expensive. I would clean the area up get all the scale off and poke around with a flathead screwdriver to see what's solid and what isnt then find someone locally that can weld (actually weld not half ass) and pay them to do the work.
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Old 01-10-2020, 01:51 PM #17
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Originally Posted by Venka93 View Post
I found this one by looking for a part out. Iím not sure of the prices out there now but I seen one on here for $1400. Which in my opinion is wayyyy too much. I paid a fraction of that.


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This is good to know as well, thankyou
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Old 01-10-2020, 01:54 PM #18
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Originally Posted by tonte101 View Post
I am hoping this within the realm of fixable by an amazing act... haha.
The first is driver side, no pitting on the inside side of the lower control arm mount, but there is considerable scaling that I have painted over.
The second is passenger side, no pitting on the outside, only inside.
Third is the issue with the floor in the rear which I have layed fiberglass over top of from the inside. I regret not using chicken wire to help create the form, but this is not a final solution, just a patch for now.
Where the control arms mount on the frame is easily fixable. I paid a professional fab guy 500 bucks to fix my frame in that area and install my new muffler at the time which involved all new exhaust pipe and hangers. For me it was worth it. The other rust I'd take measurements of the area you're going to cut out, go to a junkyard and find a truck with that peice in good condition and cut it out with the same or slightly larger measurements and weld it in.
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Old 01-10-2020, 02:44 PM #19
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Right on brother- thank you. I need to sack up and start driving around to junkyards. I knew the floor repair was going to entail exactly what you said, cutting out a good floor from another truck...

Need to get some quotes on the control arm area ASAP. I also need some muffler work. If fact, the area of the floor that rusted out, I believe, was because the exhaust was never routed over the axle and out the side (behind the passenger rear tire like OEM) so the exhaust would just dump into that area and heat up the floor. In combination with salty roads up in western NY, where the truck spent a majority of it's life,and the constant freeze/thaw I am wagering that's what the culprit was. i I would like to sell this truck, but I afraid I am going to get haggled down pretty hard about those rust areas. Also my u-joint on the driveshaft is shot so that is also on the list before this project is at a comfortable rest area.

Thanks again.
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Old 01-11-2020, 02:51 AM #20
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Got all the parts swapped over to the clean frame and hoping to have the body on frame tomorrow


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Old 01-11-2020, 10:14 AM #21
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Originally Posted by Venka93 View Post
Got all the parts swapped over to the clean frame and hoping to have the body on frame tomorrow

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was reading this last night... nice work. its a boat load of work to swap everything over.

probably to late for this suggestion. after running with the poly body mounts this winter I will not be using them again. I'm going back to toyota OEM rubber mounts when I swap bodies this summer. the difference in ride quality in cold weather is noticeable. I know the Toyota mounts are 2x the cost of the poly mounts but I'm now of the opinion its worth the extra cost.
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Old 01-11-2020, 12:23 PM #22
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Originally Posted by sleepydad View Post
was reading this last night... nice work. its a boat load of work to swap everything over.

probably to late for this suggestion. after running with the poly body mounts this winter I will not be using them again. I'm going back to toyota OEM rubber mounts when I swap bodies this summer. the difference in ride quality in cold weather is noticeable. I know the Toyota mounts are 2x the cost of the poly mounts but I'm now of the opinion its worth the extra cost.
Andy, thanks for the feedback. Installing these now actually. Did you happen to grease them? Grease was not supplied in the Energy Suspension kit, which I think you also got. I had planned to use grease and woke-up last night realizing I forgot.

I had found before that a good grease can not just prevent squeaks, but also help with vibration dampening. I have a tub of ES's Formula 5 that I'll be applying. Damn sticky stuff, but it always worked quite well for me...

I was hoping to provide a good article on the topic, but can't find it now.
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Old 01-11-2020, 01:18 PM #23
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Andy, thanks for the feedback. Installing these now actually. Did you happen to grease them? Grease was not supplied in the Energy Suspension kit, which I think you also got. I had planned to use grease and woke-up last night realizing I forgot.

I had found before that a good grease can not just prevent squeaks, but also help with vibration dampening. I have a tub of ES's Formula 5 that I'll be applying. Damn sticky stuff, but it always worked quite well for me...

I was hoping to provide a good article on the topic, but can't find it now.
I coated them all. Used everything I had. they don't squeak, yet.

I just picked up a stock 98 vs re-done 97

when I say cold I mean 15 F or lower

98 stock still has OEM shocks/springs/mounts rides nice even when cold.
97 redo has eibach and all poly, when cold it rides like a board.

a lot of variables could contribute to this... links, bushings... so it's hard to tell I guess really.

all the engineering docs rave up and down about poly, and how it's so much better in every way. The more poly I use the less I like it.
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Old 01-11-2020, 11:12 PM #24
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1998 sr5 frame swap + possible maintenance/build thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepydad View Post
was reading this last night... nice work. its a boat load of work to swap everything over.



probably to late for this suggestion. after running with the poly body mounts this winter I will not be using them again. I'm going back to toyota OEM rubber mounts when I swap bodies this summer. the difference in ride quality in cold weather is noticeable. I know the Toyota mounts are 2x the cost of the poly mounts but I'm now of the opinion its worth the extra cost.


Thatís an interesting suggestion. I always heard only the good things about these poly body mounts. Iíll be putting the body on frame on Monday. Iíll have to stop by the Toyota dealer to see if they have the oem mounts in stock. Is it just the rougher ride with poly mounts? Also where did you apply the grease?

And yeah, honestly the whole frame swap would save a ton of time if the new frame has all those little parts like brake/fuel lines, good suspension, etc. Mine came off of a 2wd so I had to deal with a couple extra headaches.


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Old 01-12-2020, 02:00 PM #25
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That’s an interesting suggestion. I always heard only the good things about these poly body mounts. I’ll be putting the body on frame on Monday. I’ll have to stop by the Toyota dealer to see if they have the oem mounts in stock. Is it just the rougher ride with poly mounts? Also where did you apply the grease?

And yeah, honestly the whole frame swap would save a ton of time if the new frame has all those little parts like brake/fuel lines, good suspension, etc. Mine came off of a 2wd so I had to deal with a couple extra headaches.


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I think the end game is important. is this a daily or trail rig?

if my 97 was a pure trail rig I would not care at all.

when I did my frame swap on the 97 I went all poly on the entire truck(almost). rack, body, rear all have poly. front uca, lca are brand new OEM .

I coated the entire bushing outside and inside with special bushing lube. the stuff that comes with the other bushing kits. provided by energy suspension. I got a stack of them one time from somebody so I had extra. I don't think the body mounts came with any lube, can't remember specifically.

it's kind of hard to explain but I will try to make a comparison that makes sense? With the steering rack poly it feels nice and tight. OEM rack bushing always felt kind of mushy to me.

the body mounts seem to give more suspension feedback IMO. this is ok but when it gets cold I get way more feedback that I bargained for. it's like you can feel each and every bump/crack. Any suspension gets stiffer in very cold weather.

the OEM body mounts are a lot more money but in this case because I live in a cold place I think it's worth the mushy feeling.

I know I'm kind of nick picking but maybe body mounts should be mushy?

I also know the formulation of the poly is vital to the application. maybe? the poly body mounts should be softer? totally possible the people who originally did the energy kit lived in a nice warm place?

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Old 01-12-2020, 08:03 PM #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepydad View Post
I think the end game is important. is this a daily or trail rig?

if my 97 was a pure trail rig I would not care at all.

when I did my frame swap on the 97 I went all poly on the entire truck(almost). rack, body, rear all have poly. front uca, lca are brand new OEM .

I coated the entire bushing outside and inside with special bushing lube. the stuff that comes with the other bushing kits. provided by energy suspension. I got a stack of them one time from somebody so I had extra. I don't think the body mounts came with any lube, can't remember specifically.

it's kind of hard to explain but I will try to make a comparison that makes sense? With the steering rack poly it feels nice and tight. OEM rack bushing always felt kind of mushy to me.

the body mounts seem to give more suspension feedback IMO. this is ok but when it gets cold I get way more feedback that I bargained for. it's like you can feel each and every bump/crack. Any suspension gets stiffer in very cold weather.

the OEM body mounts are a lot more money but in this case because I live in a cold place I think it's worth the mushy feeling.

I know I'm kind of nick picking but maybe body mounts should be mushy?

I also know the formulation of the poly is vital to the application. maybe? the poly body mounts should be softer? totally possible the people who originally did the energy kit lived in a nice warm place?


Ok that makes sense. I think that as long as mine donít start squeaking then I wonít really mind the stiffness, or else I wouldnít have lifted it either. Theyíre not that hard to change later down the road either so Iíll just stick with these energy suspension mounts.

Anything else I should look at in your opinion before I drop the body on the frame?


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Old 01-13-2020, 10:27 AM #27
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Ok that makes sense. I think that as long as mine donít start squeaking then I wonít really mind the stiffness, or else I wouldnít have lifted it either. Theyíre not that hard to change later down the road either so Iíll just stick with these energy suspension mounts.

Anything else I should look at in your opinion before I drop the body on the frame?


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I ended up replacing my tank because my old one was very rusty on top but for sure but I would replace the pump/strainer. you have easy access to the tank right now, the pumps on these trucks are known to go get tired after 20 years.

maybe optional because you have a lift and dropping the tank later will be pretty easy for you but still.

before you drop the body, take the steering rag joint apart. clean up the splines on the upper steering shaft and lube. same thing with the lower splines and lower shaft. you can use some sort of metal wedge to pry the pinch joints apart.

the last photo here in this part
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3354898-post131.html

3rd photo down as well
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3356856-post139.html

I was thinking I could drop the body and line up the steering shaft and rag joint connection. it worked but I ended up having to take it apart after the fact and get everything back into alignment. sucked.

also super important detail about steering.

you have a spiral cable that connects the horn, air bag, cruise control. do not spin the steering wheel around without removing the air bag and unplugging that cable. your steering wheel can only spin like 2.5 times around with that cable getting possibly tweaked.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/1614120-post9.html

the next time I drop a body down I'm going to take the rag joint apart and slide the upper section onto the upper steering column. then after drop the lower section of the rag joint on the rack. then bolt them together. this part of the frame swap where you have to get the rack/steering wheel/alignment is a pain but worth a little time now... it all has to line up at some point.
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Old 01-13-2020, 01:20 PM #28
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Wow that lower arm was really rusty. Good work!
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Old 01-13-2020, 11:40 PM #29
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Quote:
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I ended up replacing my tank because my old one was very rusty on top but for sure but I would replace the pump/strainer. you have easy access to the tank right now, the pumps on these trucks are known to go get tired after 20 years.



maybe optional because you have a lift and dropping the tank later will be pretty easy for you but still.



before you drop the body, take the steering rag joint apart. clean up the splines on the upper steering shaft and lube. same thing with the lower splines and lower shaft. you can use some sort of metal wedge to pry the pinch joints apart.



the last photo here in this part

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3354898-post131.html



3rd photo down as well

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3356856-post139.html



I was thinking I could drop the body and line up the steering shaft and rag joint connection. it worked but I ended up having to take it apart after the fact and get everything back into alignment. sucked.



also super important detail about steering.



you have a spiral cable that connects the horn, air bag, cruise control. do not spin the steering wheel around without removing the air bag and unplugging that cable. your steering wheel can only spin like 2.5 times around with that cable getting possibly tweaked.



https://www.toyota-4runner.org/1614120-post9.html



the next time I drop a body down I'm going to take the rag joint apart and slide the upper section onto the upper steering column. then after drop the lower section of the rag joint on the rack. then bolt them together. this part of the frame swap where you have to get the rack/steering wheel/alignment is a pain but worth a little time now... it all has to line up at some point.


I didnít see your reply earlier so I just went ahead and dropped the body on the frame. I actually did all of why you said except for cleaning the steering splines! Should have checked. My doner frame came with a gas tank that was in excellent shape so that worked out great. My father actually stopped by to help with watching out for things when I was lowering the frame and he told me all about that steering wheel needing to be in certain place. Did you end up using the front sway bar links for the rear and 2nd gen for the front after the lift?


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Old 01-13-2020, 11:48 PM #30
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Setting the body on the new frame was actually a lot easier than I thought. I thought that lining up the frame with the body mount bolts would be really tough. Honestly the only thing that sort of took a little time was making sure all the tubes and hoses were going in the correct places



I ended up installing my lift with the body off since it was all just there and easy access. Iím really liking the way it turned out so far.

Now all I really have to do is fill all the fluids back up and connect all the hoses and tubes in the correct places. Shouldnít be too hard. Any recommendations for the sway bar links? Iím thinking the fronts would be too short still for the rear. I gained a lot more lift than I thought I would.


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