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Old 07-05-2019, 04:19 PM #1
FelixFJ40 FelixFJ40 is offline
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Tweaked Rear Sway Bar Links - SS1.2

My rear suspension clanks when I go over any bumps, especially at an angle. I narrowed down to worn bushings in the rear sway bar links.

A closer look revealed that the links are actually being pushed at an angle. Almost as if the sway bar was pushing too far forward.

I have a Sonoran Steel 1.2 kit, installed by a previous owner. Is this an issue caused by the PO not having put on longer links when installing the kit? If I replace with longer links (2nd gen, etc.) will that likely get them to line up, again?

Or maybe something else is wrong? Or nothing at all?

Thanks for the help. I'm still learning the 4Runner suspension stuff.
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'16 4Runner TE - KDDS - stock
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Old 07-05-2019, 04:20 PM #2
FelixFJ40 FelixFJ40 is offline
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Here are photos.
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Tweaked Rear Sway Bar Links - SS1.2-img-0527-jpg  Tweaked Rear Sway Bar Links - SS1.2-img-0528-jpg 
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'16 4Runner TE - KDDS - stock
'95 FZJ80 - Locked, 850J/863 w Ls, Nitto TrG 315s, IPOR sliders/rear/skid, Slee front
'02 4Runner - SS 1.2, BudBuilt and Savage skids, ARB, White Knuckle sliders
'75 FJ40 - kinda stock-ish, Aussie rear - Sold
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Old 07-07-2019, 02:46 AM #3
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Remove that middle washer - then no more metal on metal.
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Post Long Travel Sale!!! CVs and a sway bar https://www.toyota-4runner.org/for-s...-arms-etc.html
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Old 07-07-2019, 10:34 AM #4
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Is it tweaked like that on the other side? Going in towards the frame like that?
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Old 07-07-2019, 11:16 AM #5
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Yep. Both sides.
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'16 4Runner TE - KDDS - stock
'95 FZJ80 - Locked, 850J/863 w Ls, Nitto TrG 315s, IPOR sliders/rear/skid, Slee front
'02 4Runner - SS 1.2, BudBuilt and Savage skids, ARB, White Knuckle sliders
'75 FJ40 - kinda stock-ish, Aussie rear - Sold
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Old 07-10-2019, 02:38 PM #6
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Can anyone confirm the length of the stock 3rd gen rear link?

Measured from the upper bracket to the center of the bolt on the bottom?
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'16 4Runner TE - KDDS - stock
'95 FZJ80 - Locked, 850J/863 w Ls, Nitto TrG 315s, IPOR sliders/rear/skid, Slee front
'02 4Runner - SS 1.2, BudBuilt and Savage skids, ARB, White Knuckle sliders
'75 FJ40 - kinda stock-ish, Aussie rear - Sold
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Old 07-10-2019, 03:52 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FelixFJ40 View Post
Can anyone confirm the length of the stock 3rd gen rear link?

Measured from the upper bracket to the center of the bolt on the bottom?
I can't confirm the length, but I can confirm where you can get better links. BY better I mean strong, and longer than OEM. I'm betting the clanking is coming from the washer in between bushings that's directly under the frame mount.

Mike
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Old 07-11-2019, 08:53 AM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MStudt View Post
I can't confirm the length, but I can confirm where you can get better links. BY better I mean strong, and longer than OEM. I'm betting the clanking is coming from the washer in between bushings that's directly under the frame mount.

Mike
Thanks, Mike, I've seen your products. They look great. The only thing holding me back is that the guy I spoke to at Sonoran Steel was adamant that with the sway bar extension brackets that come in their 1.2 kit (which I have), you need to use stock length links.
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'16 4Runner TE - KDDS - stock
'95 FZJ80 - Locked, 850J/863 w Ls, Nitto TrG 315s, IPOR sliders/rear/skid, Slee front
'02 4Runner - SS 1.2, BudBuilt and Savage skids, ARB, White Knuckle sliders
'75 FJ40 - kinda stock-ish, Aussie rear - Sold
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Old 07-11-2019, 09:05 AM #9
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Looking at your pictures, while the links do look short, I still think there is a problem with the sway bar itself, it sure looks like it's bent inwards.

The SS1.2 "extensions" just raise the attachment point on the axle up by ~1 - 1.5". Considering the LC springs lift the rear by about 3" (or more when fresh), the links would end up being a little shorter than ideal. I "think" (not knowledgeable about suspension geometry) ideally, the sway bar should be horizontal at normal ride height.

When I put on my SS1.2 kit, I had also gotten new front sway bar links, but they ended up too short. I then got some Gen 2 rear links and put them in the front, and everything works great. My plan is to use the original front links in the back as they are a little longer and will flatten out the sway bar position. Just haven't gotten around to it yet.
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Old 07-11-2019, 09:08 AM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopeless Diamond View Post
Looking at your pictures, while the links do look short, I still think there is a problem with the sway bar itself, it sure looks like it's bent inwards.

The SS1.2 "extensions" just raise the attachment point on the axle up by ~1 - 1.5". Considering the LC springs lift the rear by about 3" (or more when fresh), the links would end up being a little shorter than ideal. I "think" (not knowledgeable about suspension geometry) ideally, the sway bar should be horizontal at normal ride height.

When I put on my SS1.2 kit, I had also gotten new front sway bar links, but they ended up too short. I then got some Gen 2 rear links and put them in the front, and everything works great. My plan is to use the original front links in the back as they are a little longer and will flatten out the sway bar position. Just haven't gotten around to it yet.
From the SS website regarding the rear sway bar brackets:
"You MUST use stock length rear 3rd gen 4Runner end links. Those are actually a bit too long already so your longer than stock links are not going to work."

Linky: Rear Sway Bar Brackets from our 1.2 Lift Kit - $47.20 : Sonoran Steel Fabrication LLC, Toyota Truck Parts
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Old 07-11-2019, 10:41 AM #11
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Understood. Looking at mine, they are at a sharper angle upward than I would think is good. Maybe as the springs settle overtime that will change the orientation.
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Old 07-11-2019, 11:08 AM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FelixFJ40 View Post
Thanks, Mike, I've seen your products. They look great. The only thing holding me back is that the guy I spoke to at Sonoran Steel was adamant that with the sway bar extension brackets that come in their 1.2 kit (which I have), you need to use stock length links.
I can provide stock length links for the rear, and extended for the front. Or, stock length all around.

I don't think your links are tweaked. I looks like they rotated, and are most likely frozen in that position due to age and wear. If you remove the metal the washer you'll get rid of the noise since you won't have metal on metal contact anymore.

Mike
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