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Old 08-05-2019, 01:22 PM #1
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Steering Wheel Hubs for 3rd Gen 4Runners

I have searched and search and i havent found exactly what i am after, so ive decided to try my luck with making a thread.

there isnt really any concrete info regarding what after market steering wheel hubs will fit the 3rd gen 4runner. I found a thread on here where someone put an IS300 OEM wheel in the car (which would suggest you buy an IS300 hub, which contradicts the info below):
Steering wheel options?

in that thread, someone states:
Quote:
The corolla, is300, celica, trd, supra are basically the same minus the trim and material used.
i found another thread where someone put a grant wheel in their tacoma (not sure of year):
RACING STEERING WHEELS!?!?!?! | Tacoma World

in that thread someone states:
Quote:
se a hub for an AE86 corolla or a 3rd gen 4runner,
looking at the NRG application list:
NRG Short Hub List

it looks like i need a SRK-120H, or a SRK121H. Can anyone help me? ive tried to call NRG and i cant get them to call me back. to be honest, id much rather buy something else than NRG but i need a short stubby hub as im also going to run a QR. so im pretty much stuck with them.

edit: i cant edit the title of this thread. but im only interested in aftermarket stuff. i have zero desire to put another OEM toyota wheel in my car. im trying to avoid buying two steering wheel hubs, just to see which one fits and then having to return the other.
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Old 08-07-2019, 11:13 AM #2
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i called NRG yesterday and was able to get a hold of someone who helped me.

SRK-120H and SRK-121H actually have the same spline count, which is why i was seeing a lot of overlap. I was told one works with a clock spring and one doesnt, but i wasnt told which is which.

the 120 model has an OD of 3.84" and the 121 has an OD of 4.75". i need to measure the steering wheel column trim and see which will fit better.
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Old 08-08-2019, 11:39 AM #3
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the saga continues!! i was able to score a nardi/personal steering wheel hub on ebay yesterday for a FJ80 LC for less than a NRG hub. this worked out great for me as the trim piece on the hub will blend better with the OEM steering shaft trim pieces (IMO), this will also allow me to run the NRG slim QR (which i cant run with NRG's slim hub) to keep the stack height as low as possible. i also like the locking mechanism better on the slim QRs versus the ball bearings found on their standard QRs.

according to NRG's chart, here are your options for a FJ80 LC. According to a site i looked at earlier, some listed the 80 series as 89-97 and others as 91-97 (for parts).

LAND CRUISER:
85-90: SRK-121H
91-96: SRK-120H

this would suggest what the NRG guy told me in post 2 is correct. i didn't get around to measuring the hole in the trim last night. i will try to do it tonight. im going to wait on buying a QR until i know for sure this hub fits. i already have a nice personal leather steering wheel and a toms button ive had forever thats been collecting dust in the closet.
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Old 08-08-2019, 08:03 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mesooohoppy View Post
the saga continues!! i was able to score a nardi/personal steering wheel hub on ebay yesterday for a FJ80 LC for less than a NRG hub. this worked out great for me as the trim piece on the hub will blend better with the OEM steering shaft trim pieces (IMO), this will also allow me to run the NRG slim QR (which i cant run with NRG's slim hub) to keep the stack height as low as possible. i also like the locking mechanism better on the slim QRs versus the ball bearings found on their standard QRs.

according to NRG's chart, here are your options for a FJ80 LC. According to a site i looked at earlier, some listed the 80 series as 89-97 and others as 91-97 (for parts).

LAND CRUISER:
85-90: SRK-121H
91-96: SRK-120H

this would suggest what the NRG guy told me in post 2 is correct. i didn't get around to measuring the hole in the trim last night. i will try to do it tonight. im going to wait on buying a QR until i know for sure this hub fits. i already have a nice personal leather steering wheel and a toms button ive had forever thats been collecting dust in the closet.
don't you get an airbag warning light or code?

I guess if your swapping out a non air bag wheel you just remove the light bulb and ignor.
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Old 08-08-2019, 08:50 PM #5
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The momo hubs shares spline counts across the Celica, Corolla and other common Toyota’s.

If you do install this on an airbag equipped vehicle you need to wire in a 3 ohm resistor to not disable the passenger airbag and prevent an airbag fault light from occurring.

Last edited by Mzs14; 08-12-2019 at 07:06 PM. Reason: Resistor rating was incorrect
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Old 08-09-2019, 10:29 AM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepydad View Post
don't you get an airbag warning light or code?

I guess if your swapping out a non air bag wheel you just remove the light bulb and ignor.
you will. you will need to wire in a resistor or buy a delete kit (which is basically the same thing).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mzs14 View Post
The momo hubs shares spline counts across the Celica, Corolla and other common Toyota’s.

If you do install this on an airbag equipped vehicle you need to wire in a 1.3 ohm resistor to not disable the passenger airbag and prevent an airbag fault light from occurring.
thank you for the measurement of the resistor, i was going to buy a kit with a different resistors and try my luck that way. do you recommend buying from a certain place? how many watts do i need? 1/4W?
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Old 08-12-2019, 05:55 PM #7
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This some absolutely stellar info I have been looking for!!!! The hub is the easy part here, 3rd gen has same spline as 2nd gen. My question is how do you get a clock spring to work and get rid of the spiral coil? I’ve been looking at building a hybrid colum using a 2nd gen parts. And FYI: the passenger air bag can be removed and the air bag cover(ie dash)can be reinstalled. Also you can just pull the airbag bulb and cover the hole with a piece of tape.

Last edited by Big-B1975; 08-12-2019 at 06:03 PM.
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Old 08-12-2019, 06:13 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OregonRaine View Post
I just went through this process with my new 5th Gen; hopefully, I can help some!

What did you do to/in your 5th Gen today?!

First and foremost, I highly recommend Works Bell short adapter hubs. I've used others (Momo), and the Works Bell products are in another league; their short hubs are CNC milled billet aluminum. They work with the clockspring, too, so your blinkers still turn off by themselves, and they include airbag resisters and extra wiring leads for the horn.

According to Works Bell's fitment table on page 8, there are two different part numbers for the 3rd gen (N180) - 534 and 535. From what I can tell, the difference is based on the airbag system.

https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/d828e...3918a23565.pdf

According to the compatibility chart from RHDJapan, the 535 is the correct model. I suspect the 534 and 535 hubs are the same, and the 535 includes resisters for the airbag system. Some Works Bell hubs come in standard length or short length (with an "S" suffix). I'd recommend the short length, unless you want the wheel to be closer.

Works Bell Short Boss Kit for Rapfix - Toyota 535S - RHDJapan

Here is the Works Bell (535S) short hub adapter from a stateside vendor:

Evasive Motorsports | PH: 626.336.3400 Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm PST: Works Bell Rapfix Short Boss/Hub - Toyota MR-2 91+, Celica 94+, Supra 93+

Here is the Works Bell standard hub adapter from the same vendor. I'm not sure if the standard length hub works with the clockspring or not - it's worth asking.

Evasive Motorsports | PH: 626.336.3400 Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm PST: Works Bell Hub - Toyota / Scion / Lexus

Something else to pay attention to is the orientation of the adapter hub bolt pattern and orientation, compared to the steering wheel bolt pattern and orientation. On my WB hub, the bolt holes on the flange are located at 12, 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10 o'clock. On my Nardi steering wheel, the bolt holes are at 1, 3, 5, 7, 9 and 11 o'clock.

I'd give Evasive Motorsports a call to see if they can confirm part numbers and compatibility. Feel free to hit me up, too, as I've had to do this swap on 5 vehicles.
thanks for this info, based off of the wix link i concur. the 535 has an 'electric' designation, while the 534 has a 'mechanical' designation. sometimes the translate function in google translate doesnt line up 100%, so you sort of have to assume things. it also says its compatible with an IS300, which further solidifies the info in my previous posts.

since we are talking works bell, they're very well known in the JDM/drift/tuning world. very high quality. that is why their hubs are twice as much as NRG hubs, and their QRs are 3-3.5x the amount of NRGs. i believe the only reason NRG is as popular as they are is because they offer a similar product a much cheaper price point (A LOT of the younger 240 and miata 'enthusiasts' are mostly broke kids who buy sub par parts for their 'drift cars').

i doubt evasive will know anything about this chassis. if you ask them about a s13 or 14, they will probably be able to tell you everything you need to know (or can figure out via a google search). im willing to assume the standard length works with the clockspring if the short one does. for as much money as WB wants, im hoping so.

the difference in bolt pattern is easily solved with an adapter. i think i have a spare one. PM me if you need it.


i havent been able to get my nardi/personal hub installed to confirm fitment yet; just been busy with life stuff. i will not be able to measure the steering column hole until i get the stock steering wheel off.
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Old 08-12-2019, 06:15 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big-B1975 View Post
This some absolutely stellar info I have been looking for!!!! The hub is the easy part here, 3rd gen has same spline as 2nd gen. My question is how do you get a clock spring to work and get rid of the spiral coil? I’ve been looking at building a hybrid colum using a 2nd gen parts. And FYI: the passenger air bag can be removed and the air bag cover(ie dash)can be reinstalled. Also you can just pull the airbag bulb and cover the hole with a piece of tape.
the clock spring is the spiral coil. if the hub doesnt work with your clock spring, that just means that you will manually have to turn off your blinkers every time you use them and have completed the turn.

what is the point of using a 2nd gen steering column and mating it to a 3rd gen?

as far as the airbag light, all you need is the right resistor with the correct ohm rating. there are even plug and play kits that dont require you to cut your airbag clip (so its 100% reversible). @Mzs14 provided a number for the resistor, but i tired to search for that number he gave for the resistance and i couldnt find anything. i just tagged him in hopes of him providing his source.
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Old 08-12-2019, 06:37 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mesooohoppy View Post
the clock spring is the spiral coil. if the hub doesnt work with your clock spring, that just means that you will manually have to turn off your blinkers every time you use them and have completed the turn.

what is the point of using a 2nd gen steering column and mating it to a 3rd gen?

as far as the airbag light, all you need is the right resistor with the correct ohm rating. there are even plug and play kits that dont require you to cut your airbag clip (so its 100% reversible). @Mzs14 provided a number for the resistor, but i tired to search for that number he gave for the resistance and i couldnt find anything. i just tagged him in hopes of him providing his source.
Okay that’s the part I was confused on, so you’re saying I can still use my stock spiral coil with the bell adapter!

I was thinking about building a hybrid column so I could put a actual mechanical clock spring in not the spiral coil. And use a second gen steering wheel so I could keep my cruise control buttons.
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Old 08-12-2019, 07:06 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mesooohoppy View Post
@Mzs14 provided a number for the resistor, but i tired to search for that number he gave for the resistance and i couldnt find anything. i just tagged him in hopes of him providing his source.
My memory did indeed fail me, the correct resistance is 3ohms. I don’t remember my source but Googling the topic for other Toyota models led me to that resistor number. I personally took three one ohm resistors and jumped the srs plug and I have never had the light come on.

I will edit my original reply for future reference.
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Old 08-12-2019, 07:08 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mesooohoppy View Post
you will. you will need to wire in a resistor or buy a delete kit (which is basically the same thing).


thank you for the measurement of the resistor, i was going to buy a kit with a different resistors and try my luck that way. do you recommend buying from a certain place? how many watts do i need? 1/4W?
Not sure on the wattage, but it is actually 3 ohms for the resistor.
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Old 08-13-2019, 11:10 AM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mzs14 View Post
Not sure on the wattage, but it is actually 3 ohms for the resistor.
thank you. most resistors i found were rated at 1/4W, so i think its a safe bet to start with that.
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Old 10-28-2019, 04:37 PM #14
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ALRIGHTY. its been long enough and i got sick of seeing the hub and my steering wheel collect dust so i finally installed this weekend. the only snag being i have no idea how to wire the horn and im hoping someone can help me.

i started by getting off the stock wheel (two t30 bolts on the side of the steering wheel to release the airbag and horn assembly). and you are greeted with a clock spring with a female connector plug sticking out at 12 o'clock. i knew this was going to be a problem because i could tell it was going to interfere with the backside hub which is smooth:


so, the 'personal' hub i mentioned that i bought in post 3 was acutally a momo hub. i have no idea how the ebay seller missed this. but i think he was too lazy to take off his momo to nard pattern adapter to figure out what he had as its abundantly clear this is a momo hub and not a personal hub. oh well


here is the part number. it fits spline wise, but there is absolutely zero chance of this working with the stock clock spring (more on that later).


this plug is what plugs into the underside of the clock spring, which in turn is wired to the 12 o clock plug that is creating all of this headache for me.


here is the wheel installed, sans horn


i am hoping someone can help me below so i can install this beautiful horn:



alright, here is the deal. the ground wire you see on the steering wheel hub is directly soldered to this metal ring on the backside of the steering wheel hub. there is absolutely zero chance i can make it work on in the current setup. i am wondering if others have any ideas, as im all ears.

i was able to find this video which is incredibly helpful, im going to try and take apart my clock spring and see if i can butcher something together.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=862izi6XChI

i tried looking for wiring diagrams yesterday, but all of the links were dead. can someone please confirm the white/black wire on the plug is the horn ground?
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Old 10-30-2019, 02:41 AM #15
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For future reference for ankyone looking for a hub to fit their 3rd gen 4runner or 1st gen tacoma I'll throw this info out there. Both the NRG SRK-120H and SRK-121 will fit and function perfectly. The 121 is what I now prefer because it covers more of the large odd shaped opening left when removing the factory wheel.

There are also short hubs available on ebay that are kind of an "off-brand" SRK-120H. I've also got one of them and it works just fine and ran around 23$ shipped. They will be listed under camry/corolla/celica just like the NRG hub.

Highly recommend a quick release if your steering wheel isn't very deep because the turn signal and wiper stalks stick out pretty far and might not clear your wheel on a short hub without spacing it further.

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