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Old 08-25-2019, 10:01 PM #31
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Man what a weekend....still got one more day of wrench time. Took Monday off to account for all the screw ups for this weekend.

I got the suspension lift on First.....and forgetting about what I initially thought of was that removing the body lift first then installing the suspension I wouldn't be where I'm at not

Jack isn't tall enough to lift body off frame so I gotta grab more wood. Even with 2 2x4s I'm 2.5 inches short. I'll grab a 6x6 and call it good.

But the bolts for the body lift are loosened up and ready to go ....

I'm going to drop the energy suspension stuff on. I can not for the life of me get this damn brackets off spots 2 and 5. Either I'm rounding the top bolt off or it just won't come out. My 14mm slips and my 13 doesn't freaking fit.

Had to order oversized knuckle inserts from toytec. And going to need to get a better lower ball joint separator because I can't get it to separate from the lower control arm.

So much stuff to replace so little time
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Old 08-27-2019, 06:44 AM #32
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Welp it's done. I was able to start the engine back up after removing the airraid intake tube. Just an fyi to anyone with a 2inch body lift, that thing will not fit properly with the body lift installed.

And the PO changed the damn coil packs so o bought brand spanking new ones. This thing better breathe fire after I get the engine in working order.

I also replaced my PCV valve and the grommet. I knew that grommet was going to fall apart and it did but it only took me a minute to get it out.

Right now my idle fluctuation is gone. It was always bouncing up between 650-500. Now its steady but it's dropping. The idle was up around 700, then slowly began to drop over a couple of minutes. Basically the more it warmed up the lower it went until it steadied out.

Going to start with coil packs....that one hurt a bit since no idiot in their right mind should have changed it anyways.

If that doesn't fix the idle, I'm going to change the O2 sensors. They welded in a cat so I can only imagine they used piss pore O2 sensors.

By God I will bring this 4rummer back to life and running like it should if it's the last thing I do!

I always might have fixed my smooshy brakes. Turns out drive side rear drums axle brake line was not tightened into the cylinder. I'll bleed before I go.

Waiting on the biggeer knuckle inserts and replacing ball joints before I go off and drive it.

It will be another two weeks before I get back to it. Also got an SRQ Adjustable panhard bar.

Probably going to remove the front sway bar and I need to rebuild the endlinks on the rear they are trashed.
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Old 08-27-2019, 02:09 PM #33
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Picture time....shield your eyes. The crap done by PO is down right disgusting. absolutely insane. It took me a full 24 hours of pure wrenching time stretched out over 3 days to get all of it done.

The items I was able to replace are:

Removed
  • Shocks and springs on front and rear
  • 2inch crappy body lift
  • OEM bushings
  • Vatozone PCV valve and worn OEM grommet

Installed
  • Toytec Eibach Suspension Kit on front and rear
  • SPC UCA's
  • Energy suspension poly bushings
  • Airraid intake tube
  • OEM PCV grommet
  • OEM PCV Valve

Shout out to @DeathCougar for supplying the OEM bolts for the body mounts.

Couldn't replcae the LBJs as i was unable to free the lower ball joint from the LCA. I could have gotten it out but needed two more hands which was available so i moved on.

Would like to see if anyone knows if i can remove the spacers from the front...its 2" inches in front, and 1.25 in back.

Here is the stock setup. pretty terrifying huh? The sway bar end links were attached but i removed the end links first.

Be sure to check your jack can go high enough or else you gotta do this. lol worked like a charm though.


Before:





After:







Had to leave her with front bumper off ran out of time.

Last edited by STI_MECE; 08-27-2019 at 02:16 PM.
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Old 09-03-2019, 06:41 AM #34
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09/03/19 Update

Got another big week coming up.

Ordered rebuilt steering knuckles, bigger SPC steering knuckles incase the used ones are stretched out too.

Did not get to go home this weekend, but I made sure it was productive to say the least. I went to the junk-yard for the first time in a good awhile. Its alot more fun when your going to the junk-yard because you want to and not because you need to.

so for a whopping 100 bucks i got all the below items.



You might ask why I need those seats....but oddly enough my 2000 4runner does not have those little slots for the headrests.


Before



I think they were 20 bucks for both. However, I cleaned them with too much vigour and left one spot dead. I must have rubbed the dye off the seat but it still looks good ill keep it. Worst case ill swap the covers.
AFTER:


Got some skid plates, hopefully these will work on mine. One came off a 2002 and another maybe around 2000, all 4runners i had to pick from were auto and 2x4. (probably smartest decision i made about this thing)

For all you oil sludge lovers:
Before:



I have detailed cars for 10 plus years, and I am also cheap. Since I wasnt home I had to go to walmart and got the cheapest brush and degreaser and man in was painfully slow to remove. If anyone ever needs to get grease off, Borhs hair brush is recommended. you want stiff bristles.

I will spray these with epoxy once they are a bit cleaner.
After:


Also bought a rear panel section, because mine is cracked and i thought what the hell. lol prices are so cheap. and since this is a restoration, no stone will go unturned. I also am pulling off as many fasteners as i can.


oh yeah, i also bought a HF 20 ton press. lol I am going to buy a second set of axles and steering knuckles and rebuild those in time.

Will also go back to junkyard when ever it gets cooler and remove the right head. Since cylinder 1 has beeen retapped by POS i am going to prep it for being dropped in.
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Old 09-07-2019, 07:41 AM #35
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Man it's always something.....was rebuilding my used steering knuckles and was putting the snap rings for the SPC knuckle inserts and one of the snap rings appears to be deformed?

I had it opened up and was putting it around the insert dropped it on, and well....it didn't snap back to it's normal shape.

My hail Mary is using one of the snap rings on the other knuckles.

I have no choice but to rig something up....going to email SPC for a replacement ring. Does anyone know the size by chance? I'll measure it ...I doubt I will be able to find this size anywhere for back up.

But if anyone can give me the size that would be greatly appreciated! I can start making calls asking around for it instead making 2 hours frive!

I really hope someone can come in clutch here.
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Old 09-07-2019, 08:20 AM #36
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MY GARAGE
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Old 09-08-2019, 06:38 AM #37
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Thanks crow.

I found some snap rings, OEM ones lol I had them laying in my pile of new parts. Not sure what I was intending on using them for, bur the OEM snap ring worked for me.

She is all buttoned up. No rubbing at the recommended setting I lit 1.25" spacers on the front. She is all ready to go

Fresh lol change. Time to make a 170 mile trip after alignment and get it to it's new home
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Old 09-09-2019, 06:36 AM #38
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The truck has finally made it's maiden voyage to the apartment I stay at for work.

Now the fun is going to begin. I got the knuckles changed out to ones that were not grinded to hell. I will take pictures this afternoon.

I put some used brake calipers on and discarded the old ones that looked like crap

I will post of my alignment specs with the SPC UCAs.

Had no rubbing at all. I did put 1.25 inch spacers on the front....not sure I can get away without them. I posted a thread about it sometime ago but no answer.

I have an insanely high long term fuel trim, around 19%. Under no load it goes negative -3%

Going to start with O2 sensor and MAF sensor. my short term fuel trim is pretty good about -2% to 2%.

I have heard older vehicles are known for having a higher LTFT because the seals will wear out.amd if I replace those sensors and it doesn't get any better, I may make am executive decision to not change the timing belt and just drive it till it explodes and then drop a manufactured block in.

It already has a retapped spark plug for cylinder 1 and to me, that is putting the nail in the coffin. Does anyone have any stories retapped spark plug holes and then the engine runs forever without blowing the cylinder out?

Would appreciate if I didn't talk to myself so much.....I want opinions and guidance because I need it. And I don't wanna blow up the threads. Id like to keep it all contained
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Old 09-09-2019, 11:30 AM #39
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man that is a lot of work to re-do that mess.

Would have been easier and cheaper to start with a stock truck. Stock 2wd are cheap.
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Old 09-09-2019, 12:33 PM #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onemanarmy View Post
man that is a lot of work to re-do that mess.

Would have been easier and cheaper to start with a stock truck. Stock 2wd are cheap.
I 100% agree. Definitely a live and learn here. I am fortunate enough to be near a really good junk yard where i can source practically anything i need really aside from engine parts which i wouldn't trust.

I am going to keep this thing for the long haul though so there is no turning back. I will do whatever it takes to keep it going.

Only thing that will keep me from rebuilding it is if it catches on fire, disintegrates, or explodes lol I see the value of owning these vehicles from everyone else and it makes me wanna push this thing further, faster.
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Old 09-10-2019, 01:42 PM #41
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Here is how she sits now....it rides a million times better. But it def. is a bit interesting to drive it 70 mph, with a 30 mph cross wind. lol

I had no problems with my tires rubbing, I have 1.25" spacers on the front, I am very tempted to see if I can remove them and not have any problems.

I have a Sonoran adjustable pan hard bar coming, and that should hold the suspension over for a good while. I dropped the front sway bar, and bought new front sway bar links which are going to the rear end.

I am averaging 17 mpg's right now, and i got like in the above conditions for a 195 mile trip. Which is darn good when considering all things. and I figured out +20% LTFT is actually within spec for normal means.

enjoy the 1 picture lol I guess I have gotten her close to reputable status now, besides the missing front bumper flares.



and my 20 dollar junkyard skid plates
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Old 09-10-2019, 04:56 PM #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STI_MECE View Post
I am averaging 17 mpg's right now, and i got like in the above conditions for a 195 mile trip. Which is darn good when considering all things. and I figured out +20% LTFT is actually within spec for normal means.
20% fuel trim is *not* normal. Mine are all less than +/-5% I bet you still have something up, whether it is a leaking vacuum line or a dirty/worn/broken sensor...

17mpg is fine for your truck setup, at least - especially if you haven't calculated the tire size change into that figure.

-Charlie
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Old 09-10-2019, 06:02 PM #43
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Quote:
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20% fuel trim is *not* normal. Mine are all less than +/-5% I bet you still have something up, whether it is a leaking vacuum line or a dirty/worn/broken sensor...

17mpg is fine for your truck setup, at least - especially if you haven't calculated the tire size change into that figure.

-Charlie
Its within spec. Its on the high side but within spec...and if it wasn't I would be throwing a code.

but i wont deny there may be some leak or sensor that is putting this on the higher side. I need to smoke it out.
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Old 09-11-2019, 12:03 AM #44
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There's nothing wrong with inserts for the plugs assuming it was done correctly. Which, if it hasn't blown back out, it likely was. Do the maintenance. You've done this much, too late to back out now. Truck is looking good. I would send the panhard back and get the PCK from @eimkeith . Even with a longer bar your geometry will be off. Also, nothing wrong with the spacers. You could ditch them and go up a perch but your preload will be higher. Preference really. Just make sure you have the correct bumps for your lift and you'll be fine.
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Old 09-11-2019, 07:06 AM #45
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Quote:
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There's nothing wrong with inserts for the plugs assuming it was done correctly. Which, if it hasn't blown back out, it likely was. Do the maintenance. You've done this much, too late to back out now. Truck is looking good. I would send the panhard back and get the PCK from @eimkeith . Even with a longer bar your geometry will be off. Also, nothing wrong with the spacers. You could ditch them and go up a perch but your preload will be higher. Preference really. Just make sure you have the correct bumps for your lift and you'll be fine.

Yeah you have a point about the insert..... judging by the condition of the truck I can only imagine the same person is responsible for the quality of the rest of the work. I can only hope I have a work horse 5VZ!

I will consider returning that bar....but unlikely if shipping is expensive. I have not been able to find a reputable shop where I am living temporarily for work. I was not able to get any recommendations when I posted the question on another subject thread on this site

Do you have any recommendations on bumpstops?

I see the prices of them vary drastically.... Unfortunately I never measured the difference between before and after lift because the truck wasn't stock. I'm just going to follow the rules of thumb, drop the stop as much as the lift.

I guess the Toytec would do the job....and I kind of like the price.

The ride quality is a night and day difference. I actually have articulation now. Before this job the truck was as stiff as a brick.

I also put the front sway bar end links on the rear sway bar and gosh dang it the ride quality got even better. Its not 100% corner balanced but it's way better than when it had the short end links on.

I highly recommend to anyone extending the rear links when they do a suspension lift, and adjustable ones would take it a step further and getting it corner balanced.
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