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Old 11-07-2019, 12:05 AM #76
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Well so far so good. The entire valve cover assembly was put together poorly.

Here is one way to remove the half moon plugs ...loll literally came out attached to the gasket.

On a more positive note the cams loook gorgeous. No lol sludge.


The valve covers were put together with some white sealer. Well, chunks of it were stuck near the half moon areas. I had to pick it out with a pick. It toook surgeon precision otherwise I would have chunks get into the oil passages then clog my pump then boom.

Luckily that's not gunnna happen. I tokkm my time.

Mating surfaces are clean gaskets tomorrow throw everything on and that will be it. I got to do this in 3 hours tomorrow. It's gunna be tight

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Old 11-08-2019, 07:21 AM #77
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So close! I had four hours of wrench time today. I wanted to drive it back home. All I have left to do is the out the intake tube back on Project NoRunner: 2000 SR5 4x2 Resto

Wife wants me to head straight home after work.

I wrapped the engine harness with some tesa tape too and mounted the harness with some AC clamp mounts from Napa. 1/2 would work best I had 1 inch and it was lose.

But overall it came out super clean. I got some M6x1.0 to bolt the back of the harness to the intake manifold it was missing originally.

And the fuel line that comes the charcoal canister was missing bolts to. That's all mounted now.

This job was definitely needed for this engine! Glad it's done.

Torque the valve covers took the longest. Quadrupled checked the values

And some tips for anyone doing this. Scott Professional Glass towers which are lint free great for cleaning the mating surfaces. 3xbrass brushes (just get the same brush) the bristles get out of whack after continued use. And a 3/8 drive Quinn digital torque wrench. It only goes as low as 60inch lbs. But the torque wrench will start registering values at 45 ft lbs.

If I didn't have the torque wrench I would be a sitting duck. I have both Quinn digital torque wrenches and I highly recommend those to anyone building engines or repairing tthem. It gives you degrees of swing, and it can jump between all the different units of measurement for torque values.and because it will show you the value you are currently at as you keep tightening up to the torque spec, it's really easy to pre torque everything to whatever value you want then go back around and torque to the final value.

If you haven't checked them out already you need to!!!!!!!!! Christmas is around the corner!

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Old 11-11-2019, 09:40 PM #78
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Well I was going to start my timing belt job today. Popped the radiator cap off.

Strong smellll of fuel. Opened up the coolant resivoir, and same thing.

I closed the hood shut the garage down and walked back inside.

Does anyone wanna have a party and watch me light this thing on fire? Lol

I won't be replacing the gasket on this engine which has obviously been beaten eight ways to Sunday. At a big Cross road here.

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Old 11-11-2019, 09:55 PM #79
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Well I was going to start my timing belt job today. Popped the radiator cap off.

Strong smellll of fuel. Opened up the coolant resivoir, and same thing.

I closed the hood shut the garage down and walked back inside.

Does anyone wanna have a party and watch me light this thing on fire? Lol

I won't be replacing the gasket on this engine which has obviously been beaten eight ways to Sunday. At a big Cross road here.

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What area are in? Northern United states?

Your antifreeze smells like fuel???

It does not take much of a seep to stink up your engine compartment.


Check your fuel lines and injector rail. Could even be an injector leaking. ;)

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Old 11-11-2019, 10:06 PM #80
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I am in Texas

It's definitely coming from the coolant.

I ended up draining the coolant out and sure as shit the coolant smelled heavily of fuel.

It's a dark brown/green color.

I did find out Toyota still makes made to order 5VZ-FE engines......dare I do it....lol

It's 10k I believe. 500 for shipping. 2-2.5 months build time.

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Old 11-11-2019, 10:13 PM #81
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Wow.. you know it may not be a blown head gasket. You have yet to verify that.:]

Always best to very what the cause is before thinking the very worse.



If it's only in the antifreeze though.. none anywhere else?

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Old 11-12-2019, 08:34 AM #82
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Yes the fuel smell is def coming from the coolant. I drained the coolant and sure enough it wreaks of fuel.

And the oil smells like fuel as well (which probably isnt that big of deal)

I got a faint haze of white smoke coming from the tail pipe, even after its warmed up. To give you an idea on the amount, its like alittle less than what would come out of a truck on a cold start.

I would not be surprised if the head gasket has already failed and the PO tried to seal it up.

Going to do a leak down test just to confirm. But I am not going to rebuild this engine its just not worth it, I am going to keep an eye out for an engine even though I have been looking for a spare since I got it.

I don't want a JDM engine, id rather just get an engine out of a runner that was well maintained and just involved in a accident.

This truck will live on....If anyone catches wind of a good motor in the Texas area, please give me a shout.
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Old 11-12-2019, 01:27 PM #83
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Put some distilled water in the engine/radiator and see what happens in a week. It'll probably come out a bit brown (leftover rust), but you will probably be able to tell if something is really leaking into there. I don't really understand how fuel can get into the coolant - there isn't a direct path there.

Was your coolant level dropping?

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Old 11-12-2019, 02:01 PM #84
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@phattyduck you know I never noticed loosing any coolant but i was just below the low mark by maybe a 1/2-3/4inch

I checked it during my oil change 3k ish miles ago and it was dandy.

What I can't remember is if between now and then if the color was different. My gut tells me from memory it was pretty solid green when I first got it because I did check it.

And now it's definitely not that color.

This picture here tells me there is something going on.

I got that sweet exhaust smell and white faint smoke. And that's with it warmed up

Those tiny air bubbles are a good sign of air pumping into a water jacket or air air leaking into the coolant somewhere.

But I do find it funny how this is holding together.....it runs great. But something is up. And it's not pointing to anything good whatsoever ever.

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Old 11-12-2019, 02:39 PM #85
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Still not enough to confirm HG for me. Flush that system with dish soap if it's rusty. Works better than that radiator flush sold at the stores(scam IMO). It's getting colder so you are likely to notice steam more. Maybe you have an oxygen sensor going bad and you are noticing that sweet rich smell.
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Old 11-12-2019, 02:55 PM #86
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Still not enough to confirm HG for me. Flush that system with dish soap if it's rusty. Works better than that radiator flush sold at the stores(scam IMO). It's getting colder so you are likely to notice steam more. Maybe you have an oxygen sensor going bad and you are noticing that sweet rich smell.
yeah its definitely cold here for texas standards. 40 degrees.

I mean maybe it was just steam? I was always under the impression after the car is fully warmed up to operating temp with both oil and coolant, the CO2 coming out the pipe would not be visible.

Or are there exceptions?

I have already replaced the O2 sensors. the front one at least with the OEM denso plug
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Old 11-12-2019, 03:12 PM #87
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yeah its definitely cold here for texas standards. 40 degrees.

I mean maybe it was just steam? I was always under the impression after the car is fully warmed up to operating temp with both oil and coolant, the CO2 coming out the pipe would not be visible.

Or are there exceptions?

I have already replaced the O2 sensors. the front one at least with the OEM denso plug
Define operating temp. When the gauge is right in the middle? It can still steam. My 4Runner can spit out steam for a while when it's cold.
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Old 11-12-2019, 03:41 PM #88
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Maybe I didnt give the oil enough time to warm up. I let it run with distilled water for about 30 minutes. Yeah i know it was that is a good bit of time but I was waiting for my coolant to heat up along with getting the oil temp to heat up.

I usually say oil takes twice as long to heat up as coolant does. And i let it do that because I smelt the gas in the coolant and wanted to see if just by change i might have caught a bad HG early and was gunna rely on what was coming out the pipe.

But I just realized that logic with oil temp is only really valid when driving. So that tells me my engine was no where near hot enough.

I am gunna rent a compression tester from O rileys today and see what is going on.

The coolant smelling like fuel still baffles me.

I can get a boroscope....would it hurt to take a look inside each cylinder other than checking for wet plugs?
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Old 11-12-2019, 03:52 PM #89
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Maybe I didnt give the oil enough time to warm up. I let it run with distilled water for about 30 minutes. Yeah i know it was that is a good bit of time but I was waiting for my coolant to heat up along with getting the oil temp to heat up.

I usually say oil takes twice as long to heat up as coolant does. And i let it do that because I smelt the gas in the coolant and wanted to see if just by change i might have caught a bad HG early and was gunna rely on what was coming out the pipe.

But I just realized that logic with oil temp is only really valid when driving. So that tells me my engine was no where near hot enough.

I am gunna rent a compression tester from O rileys today and see what is going on.

The coolant smelling like fuel still baffles me.

I can get a boroscope....would it hurt to take a look inside each cylinder other than checking for wet plugs?
Sounds more like you need one of those combustion leak testers that goes on the radiator. Compression would likely be good if there's no misfire.
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Old 11-12-2019, 06:38 PM #90
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Nail in the Coffin

I am going to go use my birthday money and go buy my hoist and a engine stand.....

ill break the engine down, I got a straight edge and feeler gauges and I will check the heads for flatness and inspect for cracks.

I will check for visual cracks in the head first, if nothing there, it will be a head gasket failure causing this obviously i will see a blown head gasket first before a crack in the head.

If the heads are flat, and its just a gasket, I will order the gaskets and slap it back together.

If they are not flat and/or cracked ill throw the whole engine out and buy one from a wrecked runner. maybe keep the short block as a hood ornament.

Either way I look at it, the engine is going to get pulled anyways because I never will replace a head gasket with the engine still in the car.

and I need an excuse for a hoist and a stand.
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