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Old 01-28-2020, 01:13 PM #136
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The 2WD driveshaft has two single u-joints (not the double-cardan front joint that the 4WD's have). The rear pinion angle should match the transmission output angle - unless you put on 4WD upper links, your pinion angle should be fine with all the OEM links.

How's the driveshaft itself doing? The OEM 2WD shaft has a rubber isolator that wears out with time that causes vibrations that can only be fixed with a complete new driveshaft.

-Charlie
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Old 01-28-2020, 04:16 PM #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
The 2WD driveshaft has two single u-joints (not the double-cardan front joint that the 4WD's have). The rear pinion angle should match the transmission output angle - unless you put on 4WD upper links, your pinion angle should be fine with all the OEM links.

How's the driveshaft itself doing? The OEM 2WD shaft has a rubber isolator that wears out with time that causes vibrations that can only be fixed with a complete new driveshaft.

-Charlie
Well remember, I have what was advertised as a "3inch" lift. If the rear is lifted too high, the 3rd member is going to want to rotate downward to the ground. And you can see the slip yoke is not slid all the way into its home either.

Whenever i packed that weight in the back it brought my ass end back down, and the axle was brought closer to where it should be. (rotated back up)

This gave me two things, my yoke had better engagement with the splines on the output shaft, and it brought the pinion angle back into alignment with the transmission output yoke angle.

The rear uppers should be OEM unless PO changed them, for some ungodly reason.

Once I go back home im going to take some measurements to see how much it actually brought the ass end down.

The 2WD driveshafts are quite inferior compared to 4WD. The double cardarn and 2 piece shaft is the reason why lfited 4WD runners dont have this problem nearly as often as a lifted 2WD runner. Its pretty nice the 4WD bolts to the transfer case.

I found another thread on yota techs page where a 2WD runner installed 891's and had the same issue as me but he went different ways to fix it and never could fix it, but he also never tried adjustable endlinks, instead he was just changing the length of his shaft.
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Old 01-28-2020, 04:57 PM #138
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That sounds about right. The 4WD's are less sensitive to pinion angle, and the splines between the two halves have much more engagement than the 2WD slip yoke.

Hopefully you can fix it... It may be a combination of a small driveshaft spacer and adjusting the pinion angle. Just make sure it can't bottom out the driveshaft at full compression (have to remove springs to check how much room you have on the driveshaft).

-Charlie
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Old 03-06-2020, 06:46 PM #139
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Got me a new toy. 4runner is on the chopping block for 7k.

1998 Dodge Ram 3500 5 speed 12 valve. Last year with the 12 valve and rear doors open. Project NoRunner: 2000 SR5 4x2 Resto

I'm the 3rd owner. 200k miles


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Old 06-29-2020, 07:59 AM #140
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I still got my 4Runner. I realized I don't need to sell it but my vehicles are always "for sale". And I popped my mechanic cherry on this thing.

I have put 5k on the ticker since the engine swap and it runs like a top.

Here is progress on lastest project. I got the panels off another black ram for 450. And the rims, for 175. Fun fact most DRW (Dual rear wheels) use something called wheel simulators. It's a rich-poor man's version of a hub cab. Except these are stainless steel.

They got two different designs under lugs and over lugs. I got thunder lugs where the simulators is between the hub and lug kind of sketchy but it works. The over lug will come with studs that screw onto the main lug nut and so the simulator is held on by its own lug nut.

Not that anyone here cares but if you ever run across this , get the over lug design lol much easier to install


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