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Old 12-05-2019, 07:21 AM #106
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Engine Swap Update #5: Rear Main Seal

Changed out the rear main seal last night.

Special red locktite on the flex plate bolts. I did have to torch the bolts to get the old locktite residue off. Thread chaser wasn't cutting it.

Hardest part was torquing the flex plate.

I just kept the engine hanging on the hoist and use am impact to get all the bolts off and gain access to the rear main.

I also left the Engine hanging when putting the seal on. I sat down on the ground and kept the seal at eye level so I take a better look around the seal to make sure it's seated correctly. The one that was in wasn't entirely Flush with the crank seal retainer.

Per FSM it says to make it Flush....so following the book, that's what I did. Made it flush.

I ran to hardware store to go grab some different pieces of PVC as a seal driver

The CTC of the driveable portion of the seal is 100m on the nose. So if you can find something around 4 inch's out to out as a seal driver or with a flat bearing surface that should be good enough.

Getting the old seal out was a challenge it was in there. Made a few light scratches lol oh well. Of it leaks it leaks.

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2000 SR5 4x2 Resto/Maintenance

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Old 12-05-2019, 08:47 AM #107
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Good work so far. Engine bay looks niiiiiice.
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Old 12-05-2019, 11:15 PM #108
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Engine Swap Update #6: She's ready Project NoRunner: 2000 SR5 4x2 Resto

Oil pan has been sealed with fresh FPIG. I managed to use one tube of FPIG for two completely valve cover jobs and a oil pan lol

It was treat to flip the Engine over and do the oil pan this way.

Gunnna miss working on it outside the Engine.

But she is ready for her maiden voyage now. Got fresh denso plugs in her too for safe measure.

Will install engine Monday afternoon

Probably can fire it up Friday

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Old 12-10-2019, 06:54 AM #109
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Engine Swap Update #7: Mounting Engine not so much

She is in the engine bay but not mounted! Lol I tired to put engine in on my own I was really close maybe a inch away but couldn't get the pins to align.

I played around with it for about an hour. You don't have any visual of the alignment pins so you really gotta go by feel and visualize it in your head

I said screw it and went to go buy a 800 lb HF transmission Jack.

So today I'm going to support transmission with jack then unbolt the cross member so I can get some wiggle room.


The transmission jack is Gunn's be super helpful because I can rotate and tilt the transmission with two knobs so in theory I should be able to get this done

It may be easier for me to pull the entire transmission back slightly then mount engine, then stab transmission back into engine after it's mounted.

Thoughts?




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Old 12-10-2019, 07:48 AM #110
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I use the Harbor freight hydraulic table. I don't see why the transmission Jack would work.

Being your transmission is still in, might be easier to have an extra pair of eyes to get you lined up.

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Old 12-10-2019, 08:06 AM #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
I use the Harbor freight hydraulic table. I don't see why the transmission Jack would work.

Being your transmission is still in, might be easier to have an extra pair of eyes to get you lined up.

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I tired getting help, none of my coworkers want any part of it lol

Can i support the transmission from the bottom of the pan? Or do i need to support it by the outter lip (like where the bolts through the pan)
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Old 12-10-2019, 12:56 PM #112
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A leveler on the engine is the 'normal' way to do it, along with a (regular) jack under the pan to adjust the height of the front of the trans. You don't want two 'loose' items in there while trying to get them to mate up. You want that rear trans mount keeping the transmission from sliding back under the truck.

-Charlie
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Old 12-10-2019, 01:38 PM #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
A leveler on the engine is the 'normal' way to do it, along with a (regular) jack under the pan to adjust the height of the front of the trans. You don't want two 'loose' items in there while trying to get them to mate up. You want that rear trans mount keeping the transmission from sliding back under the truck.



-Charlie
I didn't have any luck with the load leveler.

I'm Gunna put the transmission jack under the transmission and tweak it the way I need to

You bring up a good point I shouldn't have both both unsecured.

But what I can do with the load leveler I can now do with the transmission jack if not more because I have three degrees of adjustment with the transmission where as the level only had 1

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Old 12-10-2019, 04:47 PM #114
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Charlie is correct. I dont have 2 moving things at once. I mostly have the transmissions on the floor out of the way when I pull engines. Then get that engine back in a secured before I put the transmission back on. Just easier for me to do myself.

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Old 12-10-2019, 08:28 PM #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STI_MECE View Post
I tired getting help, none of my coworkers want any part of it lol

Can i support the transmission from the bottom of the pan? Or do i need to support it by the outter lip (like where the bolts through the pan)
Bummer on the help.

I pulled my 5 speed tranny out just jacking my table against it. Wiggling off the pins then letting the table down and pulling it out from under the truck.

Tim just released a tranny removal video that may help you on your quest.
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Old 12-10-2019, 11:08 PM #116
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Got it

The transmission jack was where the magic happens. Once I got them relatively close, I rotated the transmission using the adjustment knobs.

Got underneath and bumped the engine by the engine mounts and just like that she was home.

I spent maybe 30 minutes getting the pins to align. Making small adjustments each time. Eventually I found if I belly surf on the driver Fender you can see 1 alignment pin, and feel around for the other.

You can't see or feel any of the pins from the passenger side.

All in two hours to get the bell housing bolts and TC torqued to spec.

Should only be a few more days now
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Old 12-12-2019, 11:34 PM #117
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Almost there. Harness is back in I repaired a couple spots with some flame retarded corrugated wireloom. It's pretty cost effective. Cheaper than power braid and just as effective and gives a more OEM look.

So again, harness is in and plugged in, new master cylinder is in (sparkle sparkle), belt's are torqued down I got me a OTC belt tension device that makes it a breeze to set. Fuel lines and ground connected.

No AC

New radiator arrives Saturday still waiting on replacement starter. The first one was damaged in Transit

I actually put new denso spark plugs in as well.

This show is almost wrapped up boys!

I'm Gunna call this truck, "NoRunner" I think it's 100% on point and absolutely fitting.

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Old 12-13-2019, 08:57 AM #118
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Looking better. Getting closer to getting back together.

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Old 12-13-2019, 01:44 PM #119
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still waiting on replacement starter.
This better be OEM! Otherwise, just replace the contacts in your current (if still OEM) starter. A Denso reman is the only other reliable option. All other starters are crap.

-Charlie
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Old 12-13-2019, 03:19 PM #120
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This better be OEM! Otherwise, just replace the contacts in your current (if still OEM) starter. A Denso reman is the only other reliable option. All other starters are crap.

-Charlie
Yep its an OEM starter, I got a used one coming from death cougar. He sent me one earlier but one of the female connectors broke in shipping. So he had he had to send me another and lucky for him USPS paid him for the damages.

I am not going to replace the contacts lol i know i know, i just wanna get it running this weekend.

I am going to ziptie the connection together on the current one and hope it holds.

Tomorrow should be the day.

I still gotta cross my fingers too on the front brakes dragging....the booster that was on the truck had that black gasket on the inside of he truck, and both rods on both ends of the booster were loose as could be.

The used oem one went back in, and i got the right gaskets in the right places, with a fresh master cylinder. so im praying to jesus that is the problem other wise i going to think its the ABS pump.
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