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Old 08-13-2019, 03:03 PM #1
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Front wheel bearing, hub and spindle upright rehab

I got a pair of 4x4 spindles from a guy and I am going to have the total chaos spindle gussets put on and since they are spare spindles I decided to re build them with new wheel bearings.

So I took the stuff to work and started the process of disassembling and got them all apart and wanted a little reassurance Iím not messing something up to much.

Bare spindle



Is the little rubber seal replaceable? I ruined it after I broke the snap ring and had to dig it out




Then the wheel bearing, itís a complete unit? Or did I do something wrong?


I have the spacer and the abs tone ring off as well and the actual hub/ spline assembly

Any critique the better

Thanks


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Last edited by Dezerts10; 08-13-2019 at 03:13 PM.
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Old 08-13-2019, 03:10 PM #2
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The rubber part looks like it's remnants of the outer oil seal (90312-95001):



The wheel bearing is a complete unit, so that looks all good to me.
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Old 08-13-2019, 03:40 PM #3
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You might find this video helpful. It covers everything you'll need to know about the presswork for these knuckles. The main thing you want to make sure you do is properly support the bearing when pressing in the hub. If you don't support the inner race of the bearing, you could damage it and you'll have to get new bearings as a result.

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Old 08-13-2019, 03:46 PM #4
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^^^What he said!!
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Old 08-13-2019, 03:53 PM #5
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You might find this video helpful as well since it shows all the steps to remove and replace the knuckles.

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Old 08-13-2019, 06:17 PM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weekendclimber View Post
The rubber part looks like it's remnants of the outer oil seal (90312-95001):







The wheel bearing is a complete unit, so that looks all good to me.


Thatís what it was thanks


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Old 08-13-2019, 06:20 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbtim View Post
You might find this video helpful. It covers everything you'll need to know about the presswork for these knuckles. The main thing you want to make sure you do is properly support the bearing when pressing in the hub. If you don't support the inner race of the bearing, you could damage it and you'll have to get new bearings as a result.

Thanks for the video, watched it and understand a lot better what I need to do.

How did you remove the wheel bearings from the outer race?

Also, where did you get your press tooling?


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Old 08-13-2019, 06:46 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dezerts10 View Post
How did you remove the wheel bearings from the outer race?
The bearing is all one piece that is sealed, so there are no races that you have to deal.
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Old 08-13-2019, 06:55 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dezerts10 View Post
Thanks for the video, watched it and understand a lot better what I need to do.

How did you remove the wheel bearings from the outer race?

Also, where did you get your press tooling?


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Look at the video description in Part 1. We list all the parts and tools we used. The press is just a Harbor Freight 20 ton press. That press is awesome and I've used it for lots and lots of jobs.

@weekendclimber already answered your other question. The bearing comes out as a unit unless you experience what my buddy Jordan and I had to deal with when the inner race was stuck onto the shaft of the hub spindle. This could happen and we decided to use a Dremel tool to cut it off since we couldn't figure out a way to grab the edge of the race with a bearing splitter or other tool to pull it off.
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Old 08-13-2019, 07:00 PM #10
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I finished my knuckle rebuilds this last weekend. Not bad at all. It will either be a tone ring (abs equipped) or a spacer behind the spindle 4 pin nut never both. Make sure you remove the inner races from the spindles if the bearing broke when you pressed it apart.

***Weld the gusset with a bare knuckle (no bearing or ball joint) before pressing in new bearing and ball joint!***

Install bearing in this order:

1. Lube bearing pocket and bearing outer race and press the bearing in with the metal seal facing outwards. Only press on the outer race of new bearing (take a old bearing apart and use the outer race).

2. Install new snap ring

3. Install outer knuckle dust seal

4. Install dust shield

5. Lube and press in spindle onto bearing, making sure to support the inner race.

6. Install spacer OR tone ring in correct orientation.

7. Install and torque the spindle 4 pin nut to 205 ftlbs. For manual hub swap only. Otherwise press on spacer.

8. Install inner knuckle seal

9. Sit back and have a cold one.
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Old 08-13-2019, 07:12 PM #11
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In part 2 video you have an outer race for a press tool. How did you remove the inner race from that outer race to use as a tool?




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Old 08-13-2019, 07:17 PM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2TH4IST View Post
...4. Install dust shield

5. Lube and press in spindle onto bearing, making sure to support the inner race.

6. Install spacer OR tone ring in correct orientation.

7. Install and torque the spindle 4 pin nut to 205 ftlbs.

8. Install inner knuc...
To be clear, step 7 is only necessary if you are doing a manual hub swap. There is not a spindle nut on the factory hub, it would be a spacer (43524-35010).
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Old 08-13-2019, 07:24 PM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weekendclimber View Post
To be clear, step 7 is only necessary if you are doing a manual hub swap. There is not a spindle nut on the factory hub, it would be a spacer (43524-35010).
Interesting, as the 2wd 3rd gen knuckles I pulled from the junkyard had the 4 pin nut. I'll add a edit.
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Old 08-13-2019, 07:58 PM #14
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Interesting, as the 2wd 3rd gen knuckles I pulled from the junkyard had the 4 pin nut. I'll add a edit.
I guess I'm only talking about 4wd. I would lean on your description for 2wd vehicles, as I have no experience with them.
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Old 08-14-2019, 02:33 AM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2TH4IST View Post
Interesting, as the 2wd 3rd gen knuckles I pulled from the junkyard had the 4 pin nut. I'll add a edit.


Quote:
Originally Posted by weekendclimber View Post
I guess I'm only talking about 4wd. I would lean on your description for 2wd vehicles, as I have no experience with them.


Iím gonna go out in a limb here and say the 4pin nut that was on the 2wd spindles is to keep it all together.

On the 4wd, the CV holds the bearing together. The 2wd doesnít have a CV, so it would use the nut, just like the manual hubs would use.

At least, thatís what I would assume.


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