[aa010175]

I am replacing/rebuilding my cylinder heads and want to know where to use Anti-seize. Thanks Dave

[brillo_76]

I wouldn't use antiseize on any of the engine internal bolts at all. I would just use it on the external bolts. Keeping in mind that anti seize will increase the torque tension by 25% So they Torque values need to be reduced by 25% to prevent Over torquing of the bolts.

I really doubt you need antiseize in that particular job as anti seize is used more in the areas were water and rust can cause you issues.

However it's your rig and your decision.

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[aa010175]

Should I use it on the spark plugs? Dave

[Pyral]

I wouldn't use it on spark plugs, though some people do. Anything related to the exhaust system should get anti-seize

[TheDurk]

Originally Posted by aa010175

Should I use it on the spark plugs? Dave

NGK claims their fancy plating makes anti-seize or any other coating unnecessary, and, in fact, undesirable due to the torque effect. I have used NGK exclusively for maybe 30 years without coating and I have never broken one of them. But, as above, your rig, your choice.

5 Things You Should Know About Spark Plugs - NGK Spark Plugs

[gamefreakgc]

Originally Posted by Pyral

I wouldn't use it on spark plugs, though some people do. Anything related to the exhaust system should get anti-seize

I agree with this. It is known for the threads to strip in the spark plug holes and it's normally due to over torqueing which can be done easily with anti-seize. I'm also in the 'no anti-seize' club in the engine bay. It just doesn't need it and most of those bolts will never seize up due to the constant heating and cooling cycles they see or are small 10-12mm head bolts that are easy to remove.

The one exception of course is the exhaust and if you get any sort of corrosion from salt on the road it's a good idea. I personally have never used it on the exhaust as I live in a rust-free area and my stock exhaust is gone anyway.

[Too Stroked]

Here's my 2 cents from somebody who's lived in the rust belt for my entire life. I apply Never Seize to any threaded fastener that I'm going to remove and reinstall multiple times over the life of the vehicle. Examples include lug nuts, bolts on the skid plates that I need to remove for every oil change, shock bolts, and the shafts on the LCA camber adjustment bolts - but not the threads. (These are famous for corroding inside the bushings and requiring new LCA's during an alignment.) In short, if I'm going to remove it during my lifetime with the vehicle, I'm probably going to use it to make my life easier down the road unless I don't ever want it to come loose. And for those of you that don't live in the rust belt, you have no idea what a pain it is.

As for spark plugs, I apply a very small amount of high temperature anti-seize and use a torque wrench to install the plugs. I've heard all the stories about folks stripping threads on plus when using anti-seize, but in 50 years of changing spark plugs, I've never stripped one. I have owned Ford F-150's with the famous modular motors though and it was mandatory to use Nickel anti-seize on the plug shanks or they welded themselves in due to a poor design.

[Rushthezeppelin]

Brakes rotors/drums are the place you should really be using anti-sieze ime.

[brillo_76]

Originally Posted by Rushthezeppelin

Brakes rotors/drums are the place you should really be using anti-sieze ime.

Best to use ceramic high temp anti seize on the brakes.

I mostly use copper anti seize on most other things.



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[brillo_76]

You have to drop the torque specs when use anti seize. It's 20 to 25% drop if not you will over torque the fasteners.

You really have to be easy on aluminum threads with steel bolts. Super easy rip out the aluminum threads.

15ft lbs is not that much and most of your plemnum bolts valve covers etc.



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