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Old 08-19-2019, 11:51 PM #1
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Door lock switches stopped working, locks work fine

So since I've had my new to me 3rd gen for the past 2 months or so I noticed the driver door mounted door lock switch sometimes didn't work.

Well... now it doesn't work at all. Including the passenger side door mounted switch!!! However the locks themselves work just fine via the key, remote, or the strange automated system when you turn the truck on or off.

Where should I start my search? Just seems weird since it is just the switch on both doors.

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Old 08-20-2019, 10:25 AM #2
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If it was just one door, sometimes older vehicles wear out their wiring due to fatigue from door opening. Sounds like it's both doors, so I'd guess maybe a fuse. Worth looking over all your fuses and cleaning or replacing them. I'm planning to do mine soon in the hopes of speeding up my windows.
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Old 08-20-2019, 03:17 PM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samsquantch View Post
If it was just one door, sometimes older vehicles wear out their wiring due to fatigue from door opening. Sounds like it's both doors, so I'd guess maybe a fuse. Worth looking over all your fuses and cleaning or replacing them. I'm planning to do mine soon in the hopes of speeding up my windows.
Wow I didn't think the door's alone would have a fuse. Huh.
What are you cleaning them with? Or should I just swap them?
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Old 08-20-2019, 04:13 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20 View Post
Wow I didn't think the door's alone would have a fuse. Huh.
What are you cleaning them with? Or should I just swap them?
They don't.

That's all the help you'll get from me until you post YOUR YEAR. (pet peeve)
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Old 08-20-2019, 05:27 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk View Post
They don't.

That's all the help you'll get from me until you post YOUR YEAR. (pet peeve)
Hahaha ok I actually laughed out loud there.

@jross20 , TheDurk is the go-to guy for anything electrical on the 3rd Gen, and he's right, the year of the truck (and sometimes other things like the engine, transmission, trim level, etc) make a big difference in how the wiring is laid out.
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Old 08-20-2019, 06:54 PM #6
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Shoot sorry guys, 2000 model SR5.
Haha
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Old 08-20-2019, 08:31 PM #7
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Originally Posted by jross20 View Post
Shoot sorry guys, 2000 model SR5.
Haha
That's better.

OK, there is two ways this can go. It can be a defect in the Body ECU, which is a bad thing as it is very difficult to service unless you are a real jock with PCB work, and can deal with the fact we have no access to diagrams of the internal wiring. That, and it is very expensive to replace new, so you end up junk yard cruising.

The other way it can go is a wiring defect between the Body ECU and the doors, but the symptom set makes this sort of unlikely. But let's make sure, given the alternative. On both sides, the switches are fed by a white-black ground wire, that is connected to a red wire to unlock and a red-white wire to lock. Your mission is to pull and unplug those switches (they just pry up). The attachments show the pins on each side. First, verify the white-black wire is a good ground on both sides. If it is, then bridge that white-black to the red and red-white wires in turn on both sides and see if you get any response. A short piece of insulated copper wire is ideal for this.

Depending on results, we will figure out what to do next. If you need help following the directions, feel free to ask. I can't know how adept a user is but I don't mind hand holding if necessary. If you don't have a meter or test light, you will need one.
Attached Images
File Type: pdf 128 Door Lock Control.pdf (66.8 KB, 7 views)
File Type: pdf 260 Connector List.pdf (247.0 KB, 4 views)
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'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
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My Backyard Frame Swap

Last edited by TheDurk; 08-20-2019 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 08-21-2019, 12:38 AM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samsquantch View Post
If it was just one door, sometimes older vehicles wear out their wiring due to fatigue from door opening. Sounds like it's both doors, so I'd guess maybe a fuse. Worth looking over all your fuses and cleaning or replacing them. I'm planning to do mine soon in the hopes of speeding up my windows.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk View Post
That's better.

OK, there is two ways this can go. It can be a defect in the Body ECU, which is a bad thing as it is very difficult to service unless you are a real jock with PCB work, and can deal with the fact we have no access to diagrams of the internal wiring. That, and it is very expensive to replace new, so you end up junk yard cruising.

The other way it can go is a wiring defect between the Body ECU and the doors, but the symptom set makes this sort of unlikely. But let's make sure, given the alternative. On both sides, the switches are fed by a white-black ground wire, that is connected to a red wire to unlock and a red-white wire to lock. Your mission is to pull and unplug those switches (they just pry up). The attachments show the pins on each side. First, verify the white-black wire is a good ground on both sides. If it is, then bridge that white-black to the red and red-white wires in turn on both sides and see if you get any response. A short piece of insulated copper wire is ideal for this.

Depending on results, we will figure out what to do next. If you need help following the directions, feel free to ask. I can't know how adept a user is but I don't mind hand holding if necessary. If you don't have a meter or test light, you will need one.
Goodness me this is excellent brain food. This sounds like something I should get my electrician buddy to look at me with.
He has all those kinds of tools.

So what I understand is that I essentially need to "simulate" the switch using a short piece of wire. Right? Also sounds like it would be good to check the resistance and such.

I assume I'll need to dismantle the doors, is that fairly straight forward? This 4runner is in super mint condition physically, and I definitely do not want to mess up any panels/trim! Haha

Lastly... This body ecu doesn't effect the brakes.. Does it?
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Old 08-21-2019, 09:29 AM #9
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Durk, update.

I got a hunch last night and checked the temperature this morning. It was significantly cooler than it's been most of past few weeks. I got in and sure enough both of the lock switches work just fine. Since you mentioned the body ECU b it got me to thinking that maybe the problem only shows itself when the truck is hot. maybe due to some kind of thermal expansion on a PCB, not really sure but I was thinking that it might be affected by the heat.

I'm test this again later today after the heat builds up.


Edit

Actually I had another thought. Has anyone ever thought about or tried to add active cooling to the body ecu? Working right networking equipment I can definitely say that I know hat just ruins electronics

I'm sure this would not fix the damage that's done obviously, but maybe it would prolong its' life?

Last edited by jross20; 08-21-2019 at 09:36 AM.
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Old 08-21-2019, 10:58 AM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20 View Post
Goodness me this is excellent brain food. This sounds like something I should get my electrician buddy to look at me with.
He has all those kinds of tools.

So what I understand is that I essentially need to "simulate" the switch using a short piece of wire. Right? Also sounds like it would be good to check the resistance and such.

I assume I'll need to dismantle the doors, is that fairly straight forward? This 4runner is in super mint condition physically, and I definitely do not want to mess up any panels/trim! Haha

Lastly... This body ecu doesn't effect the brakes.. Does it?
No, nothing to do with the brakes. Yes, on simulate the switch. But DO NOT forget the part about verifying the grounds. This is actually your best bet, as that could conceivably affect both. Without a good ground at the switch, nothing is going to work.

No need to dismantle door. You can pull the switches out of the door just by prying up the little panels they are on, and then disconnect the plug. Use a plastic pry tool, or wrap a butter knife with electrical tape, and all will be fine.
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'97 HiLux SW4 5spd 4WD(Japan model bought in Brazil assembled in Argentina, very close to a 3.0 4Runner/Surf)
'71 FordWillys Jeep CJ5 (with straight six Ford Maverick 3.0 liter engine--lives in the mountains north of Sao Paulo Brazil)
My Backyard Frame Swap
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Old 08-21-2019, 11:34 AM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDurk View Post
No, nothing to do with the brakes. Yes, on simulate the switch. But DO NOT forget the part about verifying the grounds. This is actually your best bet, as that could conceivably affect both. Without a good ground at the switch, nothing is going to work.

No need to dismantle door. You can pull the switches out of the door just by prying up the little panels they are on, and then disconnect the plug. Use a plastic pry tool, or wrap a butter knife with electrical tape, and all will be fine.
Okay I didn't think so but I wanted to check just to see if by chance it could explain my strange brake issue. Anyway.

Plastic tool, got it. I've been needing to get a kit of those anyway for laptop repairs. I'll grab that on the way home today. Glad I don't have to take the doors apart, haha.
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