I can already answer the corroseal cant take any heat. So dont use that as a base coat for anything that gets heat or metal that isnt rusted without scuffing it up first as it will not adhere.

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Yes that's going to be my topcoat on the rigs when finished fixing.

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I was wondering what to put on my calipers as a seal coat. I was looking into the high temp paint for the drums etc too. So it's good to get feedback on these coatings.

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When I painted mines, I just did the regular no frills wire brush down to clean metal and VHT caliper paint on bare metal. I don't live in a salt state, so I cannot say how it will do in your area but, so far it held up here down south.
I'm about ready to go on my second set of caliper pads on the tbu set up.

Can a base waxy film survive the heat front brakes put out long term? I would think the film initially would gas out, then turn into a tar like texture. Or maybe dry up from repeated heat cycles, rendering the once waxy film into rigid hard paint like coating.

Wonder how linseed oil would last?


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I think cosomile would stay as a top coat
Fluid film would just wash off. I have to have a good paint coat underneath. This environment is very hard on steel. Even vehicles that never see salt will rust up in time.


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No idea. Transmission fluid will last about 6 months or so.

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These baby's arrived... stainless steel.

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Sweet! I put these at all 4 corners for bleeding my brakes after TBU 231 upgrade. FYI, if you have reman calipers the cross reference bleeders for T4R may not fit, the thread size may be different, at least they were on my reman Powerstop calipers.

Edit - I mean I ordered speed bleeders meant for the Tundra Calipers that I cross referenced off of Russell's speed bleeder website but when I got them they didn't fit. I ended up having to use bleeders I had ordered for my silverado instead - thought that this was due to buying reman calipers, or maybe could've been a typo on Russell's website...

I believe the ones I got fit 3rd gens and the other 199mm rotor smaller wide tundra calipers.

I suspect the larger ones would use a different bleeder. Arent they the 230mm rotors and calipers that only fit 17 rims?

I am thinking those ones are the calipers folks are having issues with as are master cylinders are not designed for that large caliper. Might be too much fluid volume and give the folks spongy petal.


The caliper that is just wider and the same diameter as the original ones make the most sense to me as the best replacement for the standard caliper.

I pulled mine off a 2002 sequoia with 16 inch rims on purpose as all I am after are rotors no longer warping and I will be happy.

I got a way to go before my larger calipers go on. I was just glad to find a set for $40.00. One was a remfg one. The other I will sandblast it and put a caliper rebuild kit in it so I wont have any issues with them. [ I hope]


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16" Limited wheels will fit the TBU I've read, my T4R came with worn out snows on the factory wheels where previous owner rattle canned them poorly they've been stacked behind my shop for 5 years I'm scrapping them next week. I run standard common taco 17" as winters and 17" common FJ wheels as summers. I believe it was the reman procedure on the calipers that caused the bleeders not to fit - smaller threads. I ordered 2005 tundra 4x4 calipers and the speed bleeders to match still didn't fit. Speed bleeders are great! 2000 Limited with 16" factory wheels no spongy pedal after upgrade. Tow a double seadoo trailer and a 5 x 10 aluminum trailer no problems since upgrading 2018.

Thank you for the feedback. I plan to rebuld the one caliper myself. I looked up my larger ones and they require the same bleeder.

So hoping all 4 corners work with the speed bleeders I have. If not, I buy more different size no biggie.

I bought mine directly from speedbleeder.com. being a have a very large fleet of Toyotas. I am not concerned as I can use them on another vehicle. ;)

Lots of people run 17 inch rims. I just perfer the 16 inch as I have quite a few sets of them.

Actually my 09 Tocuma actually have a set of 16s 3rd gens on it so I can clean up its 17 rims.



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4 runner 1 Deer 0 looks like @RandyBobandy and I will be straightening some metal. Nobody hurt so all is well. I even saved the deer and in the refrigerator.
Lost the limited bumper flare. and my OEM bumper...oh well.. Could have been alot worse




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No, the sport package did not change the rotors/calipers. Only on the 4th gens did the sport package upgrade the front brakes... 3rd gens only had two brake options, for the 16" wheel trucks and the 15" wheel trucks.

199 vs 231 calipers is a CALIPER measurement. The rotor for both is the same. Same diameter as the stock 4Runner rotor but thicker.

You can keep the brakes from 'warping' with careful brake application. What you are feeling is brake pad material deposited on the rotors, not actual warping of the rotors. As you come to a stop, you need to ease up significantly on the brake pressure for the last ~1 car length to lightly 'smear' the material across the rotor. I drove many thousands of miles on 32" tires with the small brakes (1" smaller rotor diameter than you have) with zero 'warping' - after starting with fully 'warped' rotors when I got the 4Runner back from my sister...

Now I have the 231 Tundra upgrade on there...

-Charlie

Idk. I tried just about everything. I always ease up on the brakes like you suggested. Rotors dont last 3 to 6 months. Possible environmental differences as well. As this area.

I will test my rotors to see if they are warped or brake material. As that's fairly easy to do

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