Not a bad idea. I needed to get them coated quickly. As you know how fast metal rusts after being blasted in this environment.

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The caliper rebulld kit came. The kits are one per caliper.

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I used air pressure to pop out and the pistons one by one and use c clamps to hold the other 3 in at a time..

I used a small pick set to remove the piston seal. I am sure a small screwdriver would work to remove them..

If a little rust is on the edge of the caliper were the boot seals go just use a bit of sandpaper to remove it.

The pistons are stainless seal so they just need cleaned off..

These kits are extremely reasonable as I think both were under $13.00



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I replaced the bleeders with speed bleeders that are stainless so after these get another coat of paint they are ready for the rig.

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Well I finally got around to installing the calipers and rotors here is the comparison between the original rotors. These are the same size just a lot thicker. The wider rotor material helps heat dissipation.

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Now the caliper comparison. To me it looks like the pads are the exact same size. You can easily see how much of a difference the rotor width is.

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Now on the rig. Bleed with new pads.

Test drive and the pedal is the same. These rotors and calipers fit the standard OEM 16 inch rims without issues. I am not
Sure why anyone would want the larger tundra calipers and rotors that will fit 17 rims.

As it's too much of a change requiring more volume if fluid causing the shift pedal. However, that's their choice.

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Good old Tetanus 1 sprang a transmission coolant leak. I got the old lines out. And the new lines in. I also found a coolant leak that needs addressed.

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Now after the antifreeze leak.....suspecting the water pump. There it is the bottom of the junk po water pump. Always use oem or oem mfg. Or you have crap.like this happen. Trying to save a buck.

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Got it mostly apart my crankshaft gear is stuck and I have to the last photo is whereits currently at. The passenger side moved and it is big deal until the belt is going back on. So I just wanted to point that out. I am changing the water pump, belt tensioner idler pully along with the oil seals on the crankshaft and camshafts. Hence why the gears are off.

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Oh boy that was fun. The seeping water frozen the crankshaft timing gear after a week of messing around here and there and with my harbor freight wheel puller with 6mm x 1.00 x 80mm with 3 washers on each bolt I got it off... all cleaned up with a fresh crankshaft seal behind it and back together.

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All back together and on the road.

Leaving the timing belt tensioner bolts very loose and basically just stsrted. I used 3 small c clamps similar Tim's paper binder clamp idea. First the left crankshaft then the right crankshaft mark.

Leave the pully water pump off and C clamp the belt timing mark on side of the crankshaft gear. Use a steel bicycle tire iron to quickly and easily slip the belt on the water pump. By keeping the tensioner bolt very loose the belt slides right on to the tensioner pully.

By using this method. The belt can be on in a few minutes if that.


I am doing another 3.4 engine soon and I will take photos of this method..

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Engine out of the parts mobile

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This happens when you hit a pot hole in PA

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This one is for @phattyduck . Now this rot... PA Chrome at this finest. Even the engine frame area is really rusted...;)

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