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Old 09-16-2019, 09:37 AM #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Last Man Standing View Post
Brillo,

Great Pic's and info on frame repair!
I noticed you had a section of repair that had a arch pattern
in that area of the frame, how did you cut that pattern and are
you using all 1/4" plate for these repairs?

I took your advice and purchased a Fluid Film spray gun with a
long extension ( 32" ) for inside the frame coating. Time to save a
few pennies and stop buying those spray cans. I also ordered a can
of the FF with the brush for touch up spots such as my back bumper.
I am very pleased with the rust on the frame results after applying this
stuff!

Keep up the great work showing us your methods as I will try to do the same on my
end for whatever I do as well where it can help the community here on T4R......

LMS

I use 1/8 plate. As 1/4 plate is entirely too think and hard to work with. My patterns are made with just card board. Then I trace it out the the steel and cut it out.. I mostly leave a 1/4 to 1/8 gap in the bottom so i weld the plate to the frame and keep it all in the lip.

I use I will verify but from memory 5.5 inch 1/8 bar stock, 3.5 inch 1/8 bar stock and 2.5 bar stock steel. the 2.5 is my bottom of the frame and the other two sizes are my sides.. Middle section is 5 inch.

when an area is completely rotted. I cut it out and plate the inside first. Once that is completed. I will put a plate on the outside was well and weld it all together. This is very common in the Arch areas as they mostly rot out first. By sealing this all up. Not only we get a super strong frame. We get rid of all the holes in the frame. So the paint and fluid film cant go anywhere and just protect the steel. Should make the frames last almost forever. Regardless of the areas they are in. :-]
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Old 09-18-2019, 09:00 AM #32
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Looking good Brillo.
Iíve never welded before, can you share specifics and a picture of the setup youíre using as I would love to give it a shot at some point.
Sorry Sarki, somehow I missed this. First Welding you have to be really careful. I mostly pull my Gas Tanks out. You Can't have any gas smell or gas fumes at all If you do, you can seriously blow yourself up. I believe we have a few threads on this forum explaining how safety always has to come first on welding.

My Welding setup sucks to be honest. I have totally outgrown it. My welder is only 110 volt craftsmen that is on its last leg. One of these days the smoke is going to roll out of her..lol I would be good for body panels and lighter steel but its duty cycle is way too low.

I weld using gas and .035 mig wire. As you can see on one of my photos. I actually weld my grounding bar right to the area I am working. I use a piece of steel attached to the grounding clamp. When done in that area break the weld strap off and grind smooth.

I wear full leather gloves and full leather welding jacket. So I don't get burnt. I also use a Lincoln Viking 3350 welding helmet.


My replacement welder will be a Lincoln MP210. Being its both a 110 /220 welder. That can mig, tig and even stick weld it will be able to do everything I want it to do.

For Example: For me to weld 1/8 plate, I have to really slow my wire speed down. To get enough heat to have a decent weld. Mostly you want your welding area to be glowing red hot while welding so the metal bonds and melts together.

Welding takes practice to good at. When I first starting welding, I was extremely bad. I think Mig is easier then Stick myself. The only way to get good at welding is like anything else. You do it and practice makes perfect.


Another welding tip that I have is the area has to be clean and shiny. You get a better weld if the area is clean and non rusty. Welding on rusted steel is not easy at all. Its difficult and the splatter popping at the weld surface is a lot higher due to the rust oxide. It can be done but the cleaner you get your welding area the better.. :-)

I hope this helps. :-)
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Old 09-18-2019, 11:25 AM #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
Welding takes practice to good at. When I first starting welding, I was extremely bad. I think Mig is easier then Stick myself. The only way to get good at welding is like anything else. You do it and practice makes perfect.
I hope this helps. :-)
Thanks for taking time out to respond with detail.
I most definitely want to learn how to weld as been thinking about it for a long time.
Best bet will be to find a class close by that offers a day of basic instruction for beginners. They usually include use of all safety equipment and I imagine they have up to date welding equipment as well.
Spend a couple hundred and learn the basics.
What do you think is more useful when it comes to welding regarding automotive application, TIG or MIG? Or are both equally useful?
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Old 09-18-2019, 08:05 PM #34
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Originally Posted by Sarki View Post
Thanks for taking time out to respond with detail.
I most definitely want to learn how to weld as been thinking about it for a long time.
Best bet will be to find a class close by that offers a day of basic instruction for beginners. They usually include use of all safety equipment and I imagine they have up to date welding equipment as well.
Spend a couple hundred and learn the basics.
What do you think is more useful when it comes to welding regarding automotive application, TIG or MIG? Or are both equally useful?
Excellent idea on the Class. Mig is for steel. Tig is the aluminum.. Being the automotive steel is fairly thin. You almost entirely be doing Mig welding.. :-)
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Old 09-22-2019, 07:45 PM #35
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All I got done this weekend was painting some new bar stock. The wife had me replace a dishwasher ...oh and I changed the oil and rotated tires on the 09 Tocuma..
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Old 09-28-2019, 08:20 PM #36
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2 more plates, some grinding and paint my passenger frame rail will be completed

I am putting a hitch on this rig and of course the frame dosent have the 2 rear nuts. So I made a plate to weld the nuts to. Used 2 small bolts and nuts to hold that plate in place until I could get the nuts welded in there proper places. Then welded that plate in place.

I always found it best to weld the nuts to a plate. Then bolt that plate into place before welding it in.

Being I didn't want to drop the hitch an 1/8 down. I left the bottom of this section of the frame in. Plus I wanted to have the exact location for those hitch holes.

What made it more interesting is I wanted to plate both insides of the frame rail too.

So I got all 3 plates ready and in location before welding this together. Then I welded a plate on the end of my frame to seal it. Drilled a 3/4 hole in it for my fluid film hose to fit in. Will put a rubber grommet in the 3/4 hole to seal it.

As the bottom and sides were intact. I had no way to paint it. So I cleaned everything out. Blew it out with an air compressor. Then fluid film the entire section. Once it was coated. I then put the plates in and started welding once all my bolts were tight. Here are the photos of today's project.

It seems I didn't take a photo of my nut plate. Oh well. Maybe I will when I do the drivers side. :]

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Old 10-05-2019, 08:48 PM #37
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Working on Tetanus 1 now. I cut all the bad rocker steel out of the passenger side and fitted a 2 ◊2 16 gauge square tube in. I need to verify my outer rocker will fit over this square tub. It's going to be close. If it dosent I will drop to a 2 x 1 or worst case 1 x1. Need that tube so I have a decent bottom pinch weld line. Plus I need to rebuild my rear fender well and needed to rebuild my front. So I can bolt the bottom of my fender back on. This is what I have so far I have a replacement dog leg half welded on already

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Old 10-05-2019, 09:16 PM #38
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Nice work and great progress.
Your determination to restore the integrity of your fleet of Runners is very inspiring......thanks!!
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Old 10-06-2019, 09:17 PM #39
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Well. I need to drop to a 2 x1 inch flat bar. When I cut my rocker panel to size it up. I was a 1/2 inch lower on the pinch weld. So this is what the I got done today. Just seeing how things would fit. My daughters cat Rosie even was helping some. :] I am getting closer to getting this passenger side buttoned back up.

I verify the 2 x 1 will work good. Then start rebuilding the inner rocker. Weld the tube in. Then weld the outer rocker in. Finish by building the front and rear back in again.

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Old 10-06-2019, 09:21 PM #40
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Nice work and great progress.
Your determination to restore the integrity of your fleet of Runners is very inspiring......thanks!!
Why Thank you Sarki. I am just showing people how these 3rd gens can be saved and rebuilt from Rust Belt damage. When this is completely done the running boards will even be back on it. I am glad a few folks out there appreciate my build thread.

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Old 10-09-2019, 07:50 PM #41
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Made the inner rockers tonight and welded them in :] starting to look a little better :]

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Old 10-09-2019, 08:20 PM #42
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Seems like a lot of work, why not just pull the body off the frame and take the frames to get sand blasted so you can really see what you're dealing with.
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Old 10-10-2019, 08:28 AM #43
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Seems like a lot of work, why not just pull the body off the frame and take the frames to get sand blasted so you can really see what you're dealing with.
This is my hobby.

I am just showing DIY that you can fix it yourself. Saving $$ and having the satisfaction of you did it. Some folks pull the bodys off. Some folks put other frames under them. You can do it that way if you wish and have the room and the tools to do so. :]

As for the frames repair, The entire reason I do this is to improve my welding skills. Anyone can weld in the standard position. Learning how to weld upside down and on non clean new steel takes time.

If you take you frame out and sandblast it. You still need to cut the rot out and get rid of oxide in the inside of the frame along with sealing the frame holes. So plating the inside with a new bottom would accomplish this. Plus if you ever need to put new body mounts on you have steel to weld to as the plates are inside the frame and easy to weld to.










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2001 4X4 V6 Sport Green 4 Runner (01 Green Sport)
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Old 10-10-2019, 08:45 AM #44
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Seems like a lot of work, why not just pull the body off the frame and take the frames to get sand blasted so you can really see what you're dealing with.
I would say removing the body from the frame would be a considerable more amount of work with lots of different skill sets involved let alone the space needed and most likely another set of hands.
Brillo seems to be enjoying the process and to me is helping out some of us other rust belt owners with ideas and inspiration.
I look forward to his posts as it helps motivate me to continue the never ending battle of achieving a rust free 4Runner!
Power on Brillo!!
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Old 10-10-2019, 09:36 AM #45
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Heres the one I'm chopping for parts, 2000 5spd with 230K. It was on the cusp of repairable or parts rig, I took it over the edge. Frame was repaired, but I wasn't a fan of the work. Its a shame the PO let it go, its a nice looking rig.
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