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Old 12-28-2019, 09:53 PM #91
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So much dust lol must clean engine bay lol

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Old 12-28-2019, 10:07 PM #92
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Originally Posted by STI_MECE View Post
So much dust lol must clean engine bay lol

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Not in the rust belt in the middle of winter I am not. Most of that engine bay is under fluid film. Remember, I am not a super A personality type.


I did notice that after I put that pump in. I said wow that bay needs a bath. Its warm enough now. So tommorrow. I give it a bath and post the engine bay picture.

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Old 12-29-2019, 11:42 AM #93
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I read your headlight connector bit, but didnít understand, and then got distracted. LOL

Iím not sure about what you say about wiring, connectors, and switched grounds. I need to investigate. Iíd like to just run a resistor on the high beam side so my indicator works.

Right now I run just one of the resistor boxes from Super bright LEDís on the passenger side. Double sided tape holding it to the air box. It has the connectors on pigtails and 2 of the gold anodized 6 ohm resistors inside it.
It gets pretty hot.

You can easily just unplug it and plug in standard bulbs. Using just one standard bulb letís the high beam indicator work.

I want to try just one resistor on the high beam side to reduce heat and wasted power.
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Old 12-29-2019, 11:56 AM #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselchessy View Post
I read your headlight connector bit, but didnít understand, and then got distracted. LOL



Iím not sure about what you say about wiring, connectors, and switched grounds. I need to investigate. Iíd like to just run a resistor on the high beam side so my indicator works.



Right now I run just one of the resistor boxes from Super bright LEDís on the passenger side. Double sided tape holding it to the air box. It has the connectors on pigtails and 2 of the gold anodized 6 ohm resistors inside it.

It gets pretty hot.



You can easily just unplug it and plug in standard bulbs. Using just one standard bulb letís the high beam indicator work.



I want to try just one resistor on the high beam side to reduce heat and wasted power.
I read that here about our headlight circuit. I need to investigate that circuit. I have all the Electrical wiring diagrams for all 3rd gen years so I look into it.

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Old 12-29-2019, 02:37 PM #95
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Sorry @STI_MECE . Its raining here today so unless I want to get soaked or pull the hood off. My engine bay is not getting its bath today. :-)
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Old 12-29-2019, 03:17 PM #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselchessy View Post
I read your headlight connector bit, but didnít understand, and then got distracted. LOL

Iím not sure about what you say about wiring, connectors, and switched grounds. I need to investigate. Iíd like to just run a resistor on the high beam side so my indicator works.

Right now I run just one of the resistor boxes from Super bright LEDís on the passenger side. Double sided tape holding it to the air box. It has the connectors on pigtails and 2 of the gold anodized 6 ohm resistors inside it.
It gets pretty hot.

You can easily just unplug it and plug in standard bulbs. Using just one standard bulb letís the high beam indicator work.

I want to try just one resistor on the high beam side to reduce heat and wasted power.

This is how I was Thinking on how to fix mine. As our headlights are negative triggered {The low and the high are connected to the ground through the switches with the positive being on pin 2 }

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...48COWZL4&psc=1

You can see parallel relays so that if one quits both your headlights don't go at once. Yet you blow the fuse they both will...:/


I don't want to mess with resisters or changing the wiring of the Rig. Now I can add resister etc to this plug and play harness and switch it to positive triggered.



However, I really want the pin-out from Super Bright LEDs as how the LEDS are actually wired. I have a feeling that they are wired to be positive triggered instead of negative triggered. Or maybe the driver has some logic in it and sensing the wiring and auto pinning the LED for us. This is possibility as well.

Also the reason I am thinking on going this way as I can add fog lights to the low beam circuit really easily too and the circuitry will be there in I just need to add an illuminated switch in the dash and run a cut off switch to control the lights. {low beam feed {spliced into } going to switch then from switch to both Fog lights }. This way my Fogs will shut off when high beams on and can be disabled by the toggle switch in the dash.

Most of my 3rd gen do not have Fog lights well only 2 do. So I am thinking of adding them to the other 3.

I am just not liking the single power source, nor I am liking only one side plugged in. As we have 2 headlight fuses for a reason. So only one can go at any given time while the other still functions.

I am going to think about this for a while before executing a fix. As I want the ability to add my fog lights in as well is see how my LEDS are actually wired.

As it seems pretty easy to fix the high beam indicator problem. ;-)


Also a Link to this issue:
High Beam Indicator - What Triggers it?
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Old 12-29-2019, 08:51 PM #97
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Just looks like a standard high watt relay harness. Guessing the relay coils would suffice to activate the high beam sensor.
I have friends that run those harnesses and high watt off-road bulbs.
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Old 12-29-2019, 09:28 PM #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselchessy View Post
Just looks like a standard high watt relay harness. Guessing the relay coils would suffice to activate the high beam sensor.
I have friends that run those harnesses and high watt off-road bulbs.
I will see here as I may need to build my own converter. I rather have these convertor per side instead of only one side an one power feed. We blow that fuse its all over no headlights. As our original headlights are fused per side so if one blew we have the other.

I wish Super bright would get back to me with how these LED Are wired so I will know which way I want to go with this.. :-)

That harness converts from negative triggered to positive triggered basically flips it around from how our lights are wired now.

I am not sure the current draw on those relays would be enough as Diodes are one way current this is why our indicator is not working.

The current cant flow back from the LED.

My concern with the wiring is that I may only be half as bright as they could be because of the wiring of our headlights. Thus not being energy efficient as I want to be. However, I could be wrong but will not know until I hear from the MFG.

I included a 1998 USA headlight Electrical wiring Diagram so you can see that the lights are negative triggered and each light is fused separately so a fuse could blow and both headlights will not go out only one and a bulb could go and the fuses wouldn't blow either.
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File Type: pdf HeadLight_USA_98.pdf (49.3 KB, 12 views)
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Old 12-29-2019, 09:49 PM #99
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Looking at the diagram I can see that the relay likely won’t light the indicator.
The indicator comes on when the switched ground for the low beam is dropped, thus the indicator circuit becomes the ground and it pulls its power through the low beam filament.

If you wire fog lights in parallel with the low beams that may provide the necessary flow path.
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Last edited by Dieselchessy; 12-29-2019 at 10:56 PM.
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Old 12-30-2019, 09:00 PM #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselchessy View Post
Looking at the diagram I can see that the relay likely wonít light the indicator.
The indicator comes on when the switched ground for the low beam is dropped, thus the indicator circuit becomes the ground and it pulls its power through the low beam filament.

If you wire fog lights in parallel with the low beams that may provide the necessary flow path.
Correct, That's what I am seeing too. As the LEDs will not do this. Is why we lost the indicator.

The Good news is my SuperBright LEDS are not polarity sensitive.

{From SB LEDS : That particular bulb is non-polarity sensitive, thus it would operate with a negative or positive ground.}They they work properly with positive or negative triggered systems.

Now that that is cleared up. I only have to fix the indicator now.

Using LED Fog lights in parallel I think I would have the same issue. Now if they were standard bulb fog lights in parallel you be 100% correct. Have to have the ability to let the current flow back through that filament.

So it looks like a resister is in my future to fix that indicator. :-)
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Old 01-01-2020, 09:11 PM #101
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I changed Tetanus 1 gas tank for years ago. I got a complete tank and skid plate and just swapped them. This was its original gas tank. To scrap them they have to be cut in half. So I kept its sending unit but its fuel pump is probably junk. So when you pull the tanks take the stuff off you may want to keep then. I let this tank sit outside for 4 years and you can see what the inside looks like. On the plus side no gas fumes were left and I just swelled it in half.

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Old 01-19-2020, 04:03 PM #102
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Good Old Tetanus 1 got a misfire on cylinder 4 midweek. So I changed cylinder 4 and cylinder 2 the next day. Then just changed the other 4 today. The misfire went away immediately after changing cylinder 4 plug. These plugs were put in at 215k. The Rig now has 260k getting closer to 261k. So 45k miles on standard plugs. So I put the denso iridium plugs in. Toyota part number 90119- 01196. Most iridium plugs last 100k miles. Toyota says 60k. In any case. This is what the plugs looked like in 45k miles. Cylinder 1 is closet to the passenger side and cylinder 6 was at the other end. Extremely clean for 45k miles showing some wear which is normal but this engine was never opened up either. Spark plugs are always a good indicator of cylinder health. I was pleased they all looked the same.

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Old 02-05-2020, 10:13 PM #103
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Well this was done last January on Tetanus 1 before I created this build thread. This rot was there from the PO. So on this rig. I rebuilt the back quarters out of fiberglass screen, good puddy and metal. Never try to use expired body expoxy for panels as it will never harden and I ended up pop riveting the drivers side replacement steel on and using some filler to seal it in. I switched to welding panels in now as I not sure I try the body expoxy again. I may though because I like the idea of exposing super thin steel together then painting it up and sealing it all out with fluid film. You can see what I started with.

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Old 02-05-2020, 10:16 PM #104
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The driver side was basically nothing left. So I chopped it off and put replacement steel outer on from my parts mobile I rebuilt the back side with body filler and fiberglass screen as it only had a few small holes on it.

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Old 02-05-2020, 10:18 PM #105
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Yes I drive the drivers side like that for a week. Then put the external panel back on. Once I noticed the glue refused to setup I pop riveted it.

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