Loos like you are extremely lucky you were going as slow as you were, could have been a lot worse.

Thanks for the well wishes guys...I do feel lucky from the aspect of the circumstances in which it happened.

BTW...sorry if I posted this in the wrong forum. I just noticed there are different forums for model year.

You've had water intrusion in the cv joint.
Probably due to a torn boot.

Glad you're not hurt, Patrick.

Correct! Worst and most dangerous thing Toyota has done with the 4Runner, I think.

Patrick,
There's a thread about it. My explanation why YOUR generation is within that thread here:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3175578-post169.html

So it appears these separated from the sockets. The studs are both completely in tact.

A couple of months ago there was a rash of these getting broken. Then a bunch of guys decided to have some fun and started making a meme about it. Not really funny when it happens to you though. You'll be back up and running in no time. I'm sure you'll do both sides at the same time.

It appears high mileage or rough service will wear these ball joints out and break with little to no warning sometimes like yours did. The check for wear is kinda vague too. The slightest movement in those ball joints means it's time to replace them.

Like others said; it's a weak point in T4R's.

Are these the correct pliers?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...5NHGNZ61&psc=1

Yes...replacing everything on both sides. I cant risk going down the interstate at higher speeds with my wife or kids in the truck and the other side failing.

Wouldn't this design flaw be made worst when Folks get the big tires and rims on the rigs as the stresses would be greater on the ball joints. Then factory tire sizes and rims?

Doubt these were doing much of anything...


Both sway bar end links were limp as a wet noodles.

So I don’t have a shop manual for this vehicle. Can you guys point me to a document that prescribes all the values for everything on the front suspension?

I just did the UCa, LCA, LBJ, steering rack, sway-bar, etc... these are from my notes:

• Cam Adjuster Bolts - 96 ft-lbf
• UBJ torque 80 ft lb
• UCA torque 87 ft lb
• 3 upper shuck nuts torque 47 ftl lb
• Lower Shock Bolt - 101 ft-lbf
• Outer Tie Rod Castle Nut - 67 ft-lbf
• swaybar bushing bracket 19 ft lb
• swaybar end links - 14 ft lb
• ball joint bolts 59 ft lb ~ blue locktite
• Lower Ball Joint Castle Nut - 105 ft-lbf
• Wheel Lug Nuts - 85 ft-lbf
• For Steering Rack:
• Driver side long bolt that goes through cross member - 141 ft-lbf
• Middle Perpendicular Bolt - 123 ft-lbf
• Passenger Side Bracket Bolt and Nut - 123 ft-lbf


But man, there are links to the oem service manual all over, find one and download it to your phone so you Always have it on you. Has saved me too many times to count with different vehicles, and that's only in the past decade.

Thank you Sir.

If your CV axles have 300K on them, I would replace them.. Suspension and Sway bar link stabilizer would be if they are bad only. How are the bushings holding up on the upper and and control arms holding up? No play in them?

Yes those need replaced The stabilizer ends links looking alright or are they shot too?