Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanoe
Hey Patrick
Did I read somewhere that you went with Moog LBJ's? I could be mistaken, often am. If you did, keep an eye on them. Some have reported very early failures with those. Don't count on them to last like the originals.
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My 1998 Tetanus 1 runs moog lower ball joints and front sway bar links.
We have videos showing us available how to test their ball joints for play. If people are super concerned about non oem ball joints, or oem ball joints all one has to do is check them every oil change for play. Once play starts, replace them immediately. If one really looks into the issue. It's a front end design flaw.
So what do you think could happen to ball joints when folks put way oversized tires, larger rims and spacers and lifts along into this flawed system? Wouldnt this make the ball joints fail faster and come apart so much easier then if left with stock rims and tire sizes.
My rule of them is to check my front end every oil change for play.
By 200k at least the lower ball joints should be changed once or twice ( better if they were changed around 100k) by 200k. The upper ball joint should have also been changed and a lot of people change both upper and lowers together.
If you have 300k plus on your rig. You better make darn sure both upper and lower have been changed as the failure rate gets a lot higher if originals are still in place.
For example: My brothers honda accord snapped the original oem ball joint at 325k as ball joints only last so long.
Just like every 8 to 10 years, it's best to have a new denso radiator replaced to prevent milk shaking from occurring [ if ATM].
Some folks even place external atm coolers in series or remove the use of the radiator atm cooler all together.
Folks can always do as they wish, it's their rig.
This is only my opinion on the balljoint and radiator issues.
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