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Old 09-09-2019, 08:08 PM #16
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The mistake many make is replacing the bearings. If the seal leaks, the bearings will be floating in gear oil and well lubricated. Its when you fix the seal and the oil stops flowing that the bearing fails from being dry. Knowing what I know now, I would have just removed the bearing side cover and washed out the gear oil with brake cleaner, drain out the oil on the outer side of the bearing (drill a 1/8” hole in the dust seal and plug it when drained) and repacked the bearings with lithium grease before reassembling the axle with the reversed inner retainer. The cost would be about $25 a side. New seal, new retainer, lithium grease.

*Cut the old retainer off and heat the new retainer to install.
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Old 09-12-2019, 01:39 PM #17
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Having just rebuilt my rear brakes - shoes, Springs, bellcranks, etc - i then realized that my e-brake cable was binding and no longer siding property within the plastic sheathing. If your brakes are still binding, perhaps your cable is not retracting when you put down the lever. You noted this in your original post so donít forget that it might be a possibility. Replacing the cable is a little tedious but not difficult.
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Old 09-17-2019, 11:18 AM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonJon View Post
Having just rebuilt my rear brakes - shoes, Springs, bellcranks, etc - i then realized that my e-brake cable was binding and no longer siding property within the plastic sheathing. If your brakes are still binding, perhaps your cable is not retracting when you put down the lever. You noted this in your original post so donít forget that it might be a possibility. Replacing the cable is a little tedious but not difficult.
I will certainly check this out as well. Thank you for the post!

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Old 10-08-2019, 03:51 PM #19
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Originally Posted by Drcoffee View Post
It will take you 10 minutes to find out if the axle seal is leaking. Pop out the ABS sensor and look into the cavity. If there is any oil in there, the seals are blown. To me the brake slave cylinders are not leaking at all. They look dry.

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where exactly is the rear ABS sensor?
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Old 10-08-2019, 04:59 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pentagrammaton View Post
where exactly is the rear ABS sensor?
right here.
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Rear drums leaking or just dirty?-rear-jpg 
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Old 10-09-2019, 08:41 AM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5 View Post
Is not too out of the realm of possibilities that someone removed the brake shoes and gravity pushed a piston out of the wheel cylinder which would let brake fluid collect in between the dust seal and the dry side of the piston.
Something similar to what you described happened to my brake cylinders when I was changing my brake shoes last year. Before removing the brake shoes my wheel cylinders functioned normally & no evidence of leaking. While installing the new shoes I wasn't able to adjust the brakes to make the diameter smaller to get the drum back on. When I was looking everything over I noticed a small seepage of brake fluid from the wheel cylinder. I wasn't sure what happened at the time but based on your description I'm guessing the piston got pushed out of the cylinder somehow preventing me from properly getting the brake shoe installed.



Quote:
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I have a clamp I use to keep the pistons from pushing out of the wheel cylinder while I have the shoes removed.
Do you just put something like a small C-clamp on both ends of the wheel cylinder?
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Old 10-22-2019, 10:50 AM #22
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Hey everyone,

Rear drums had been working well; however, now that is has gotten a little colder outside (only 50F), my rear drums are beginning to stick again. I want to stress that this problem is associated with COOL weather, I dont have this issue in the Summer usually. At this point I've cleaned and lubed everything as well as replaced both wheel cylinders. Here is the scenario:

It is the morning, truck has been parked overnight. Parking brake is down. I attempt to move forward, however the rear drum brakes are locking up. The only way to fix this is to reverse a few inches, then move forward and try again. Sometimes this works the first time, sometimes I have to try it again. It seems like once I get going, it will be fine, sometimes not.

Is this more likely to be a cable issue even though I'm not using the parking brake or is it the drums and pads are sticking due to being compromised and I just need to replace them?

Thanks!!

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Old 10-22-2019, 10:53 AM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TejasRunner01 View Post
Hey everyone,

Rear drums had been working well; however, now that is has gotten a little colder outside (only 50F), my rear drums are beginning to stick again. I want to stress that this problem is associated with COOL weather, I dont have this issue in the Summer usually. At this point I've cleaned and lubed everything as well as replaced both wheel cylinders. Here is the scenario:

It is the morning, truck has been parked overnight. Parking brake is down. I attempt to move forward, however the rear drum brakes are locking up. The only way to fix this is to reverse a few inches, then move forward and try again. Sometimes this works the first time, sometimes I have to try it again. It seems like once I get going, it will be fine, sometimes not.

Is this more likely to be a cable issue even though I'm not using the parking brake or is it the drums and pads are sticking due to being compromised and I just need to replace them?

Thanks!!

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It won't be a cable issue if you don't even use the parking brake.

Have you checked those ABS sensors for leaking yet? Don't throw any new brake components in there until you do. If I was there I would do it for you, 5 minutes per side.
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Old 10-22-2019, 11:20 AM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanoe View Post
It won't be a cable issue if you don't even use the parking brake.

Have you checked those ABS sensors for leaking yet? Don't throw any new brake components in there until you do. If I was there I would do it for you, 5 minutes per side.
Great advice because you will just ruin the new shoes if the seals are leaking. I think it's a 10mm bolt holding the ABS sensor in and the sensor is magnetic so it feels a little harder to pull out than it really is. Shine a flashlight in and see if there is oil on the ABS ring(looks like a gear).
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Old 10-22-2019, 12:41 PM #25
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I'm guessing this is one of those "uh-oh" moments..

For what it is worth, my drums are still dry, just that fibrous material is occuring. I'm thinking since everything in the drum is clean, I could just replace the inner axle seal and shoes. My bearings are still really tight and holding strong when trying to wiggle.



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Last edited by TejasRunner01; 10-22-2019 at 01:55 PM.
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Old 10-22-2019, 02:52 PM #26
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@TejasRunner01 You definitely need axle seals. If you have access to a press there is a loaner tool set available from weekendclimber on here. As far as wheel bearings go it's a gamble not replacing them. When the gear oil gets past the inner axle seal it makes its way through the wheel bearing before seeping out into your drums. This process removes the grease from the wheel bearing causing premature wheel bearing failure once the oil stops leaking past the seal and lubricating the wheel bearing. From what I've read about half the people that don't replace them end up having to replace the wheel bearings within a year or less. Which means you'll have to pull the axles out again and press everything off again to replace the wheel bearings.
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Old 10-22-2019, 10:04 PM #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TejasRunner01 View Post
Very informative! Thank you. I'll definitely follow that line of attack if I continue to have problems. I did not realize what the fibrous brake dust meant, now I do! I used brake cleaner on the shoes but I did not sand them.. I only lightly sanded the drums. Again, I'll post back if I have issues.


Also thank you for the picture of what a axle seal leak looks like! I definitely don't think I am having that issue .

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As a tech I advise u against reusing pads that have been contaminated. They do not dry out and will continue to hold fluid, sanding helps get the glassing effect from heat off but when the pads continue to wear the compromised part or the pad holding fluid, oil etc will make contact with drum and since the heat buildup is incredible (with no way to vent that heat) you can warp a drum instantly if the shoe is still damp but in the end you will have COMPROMISED BRAKES! donít let ur life or someone elseís be the cost of 35$ set of shoes. If no one dies the lawsuit will make u wish u did die and just payed for new shoes..:
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Old 10-22-2019, 10:11 PM #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck View Post
@TejasRunner01 You definitely need axle seals. If you have access to a press there is a loaner tool set available from weekendclimber on here. As far as wheel bearings go it's a gamble not replacing them. When the gear oil gets past the inner axle seal it makes its way through the wheel bearing before seeping out into your drums. This process removes the grease from the wheel bearing causing premature wheel bearing failure once the oil stops leaking past the seal and lubricating the wheel bearing. From what I've read about half the people that don't replace them end up having to replace the wheel bearings within a year or less. Which means you'll have to pull the axles out again and press everything off again to replace the wheel bearings.
Yes and no, u can have gear oil spraying on the side wall of the tire, this means u have a compromised seal but if u donít have gear oil in the actual drum brake assembly itself the bearing is fine and it means it hasnít compromised the bearing hence the absence of oil in th the brake assembly
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Old 10-22-2019, 10:35 PM #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Presticlese View Post
Yes and no, u can have gear oil spraying on the side wall of the tire, this means u have a compromised seal but if u donít have gear oil in the actual drum brake assembly itself the bearing is fine and it means it hasnít compromised the bearing hence the absence of oil in th the brake assembly
Seems like if the gear oil has gotten as far as the wheel, tire, brakes, ABS sensor---it has already passed through the bearing, right?
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Old 10-23-2019, 08:30 AM #30
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Originally Posted by Presticlese View Post
Yes and no, u can have gear oil spraying on the side wall of the tire, this means u have a compromised seal but if u donít have gear oil in the actual drum brake assembly itself the bearing is fine and it means it hasnít compromised the bearing hence the absence of oil in th the brake assembly
In order for the gear oil to reach the side wall of the tire it must pass through the inner axle seal, wheel bearing, outer axle seal (it's more of a dust boot between the backing plate and axle face where the wheel mounts), onto the drum, then onto the wheel.
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