04-08-2012, 12:59 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
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3rd gen SAS
I have an 01 runner and i want to do an solid axel swap. what axels should i use. I wanna run 38's maybe 40's. what axels are you guys running?
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04-08-2012, 01:10 AM
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#2
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Oct 2011
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Addicted Offroad
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1996 Toyota 4Runner 4x4 w/ 5 speed- Lifted, Locked,Painted,Armored
Build: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
Quote:
Originally Posted by invisible4Runner
Highlander = minivan, purses, soccer practice
4Runner = testosterone, steak, dirt
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04-08-2012, 02:08 AM
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#3
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1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
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04-08-2012, 03:00 AM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayRolla
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you can not run a solid axle from an early toyota mini truck, the diff is on the wrong side. you will need to use either an entirely custom axle or a dana 44 or the likes there of... but its a lot of time any money that goes into this to do it right...
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if a*sholes could fly this place would be an airport -2004 GX470 spm -97 SR5 3.4, SCS Stealth 6's w/305 70 17s MTRs, Icon 2.5" RR w/700#coils, OME861s w/Icon tacoma 2.0 RR, ARBs w/nitro 4.88, PIAA LED lights, 170amp CS144, ARB snorkel, ARB bumper w/xd9000ce, CBI swingout loaded, BudBuilt skids, lil skip tank skid, sliders, LCE 231s(d&s), first gen roll bar mod, LED interior/dash lighting, B&M 70624+perma cool w/electric fan, dual electric fanshttp://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
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Last edited by the great him; 04-09-2012 at 10:01 AM.
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04-08-2012, 04:42 AM
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#5
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I hate to say this but if you are asking these questions maybe SAS is not right for you, you have to understand a SA truck to want a SA, axles and tires and such things are the easy part of the swap, you have to determine the use of the SAS, are you gonna be wheeling 90% of the time or is it gonna be more of a weekend warrior? did you push the limit of your IFS to the point that you have to upgrade to go to the next level of wheeling? what kinda SAS you wanna do soil sprung or leaf sprung? what kinda gears are right for you, what kinda drive train upgrade or frame upgrade you have to do to accommodate the SAS, it take most people years to test and figure out the perfect SAS, sure i've seen truck with SAS done for 1500 dollars and it only took them maybe a month, but they perform so bad that they had better performance with the IFS. typically an SAS cost around 7-10 grand, are you willing to spend the money and time? All those things come into play.
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04-08-2012, 08:42 AM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t4r4life
typically an SAS cost around 7-10 grand, are you willing to spend the money and time? All those things come into play.
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Everyone you know that does SAS's use brand new portal axles? lol Im doing one on my raider with a dana 44, 3 link coil sprung, for under 600$. You just gotta find the deals. Thats with brand new HD axles inside of it.
If you wanna run 38's or 40's you're gonna need a bigger axle. A dana 60 will do the job just fine. Ive heard the toyota axles are pretty strong but i wouldnt be sure which to get. Just be sure to budget for everything.
Brackets
Differential (that wont break all the time because of huge tires and abuse)
suspension (wether its links + coils or leafs)
drive shaft
gears
selectable locker
down time
ect.
A leaf sprung dana 60 might flex less and not perform as well as the IFS system, but you wont be breaking cv axles every 5 minutes running 40's. Overall just remember to build it as low as possible, but fitting your tires at full stuff. Center of gravity is important. Look around the interwebs for other SAS swaps, regardless of the vehicle and you'll get a better look at what needs to be done and how you can save in some areas. If your not comfortable with welding, and i mean doing a damn good job, then dont do it. Leave it to someone else, but $$ is gonna rise a lot but its not worth your and everyone elses safety.
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98 crv -Slammed, lots of mods.
87 raider - custom lift, 35's, welded diffs.
67(ish) Ford F 250(ish) - 351m, 4 speed manual, dana 21 divorced t case, dana 60's front/rear
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04-08-2012, 11:24 AM
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#7
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Elite Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LDForget
Everyone you know that does SAS's use brand new portal axles? lol Im doing one on my raider with a dana 44, 3 link coil sprung, for under 600$. You just gotta find the deals. Thats with brand new HD axles inside of it.
If you wanna run 38's or 40's you're gonna need a bigger axle. A dana 60 will do the job just fine. Ive heard the toyota axles are pretty strong but i wouldnt be sure which to get. Just be sure to budget for everything.
Brackets
Differential (that wont break all the time because of huge tires and abuse)
suspension (wether its links + coils or leafs)
drive shaft
gears
selectable locker
down time
ect.
A leaf sprung dana 60 might flex less and not perform as well as the IFS system, but you wont be breaking cv axles every 5 minutes running 40's. Overall just remember to build it as low as possible, but fitting your tires at full stuff. Center of gravity is important. Look around the interwebs for other SAS swaps, regardless of the vehicle and you'll get a better look at what needs to be done and how you can save in some areas. If your not comfortable with welding, and i mean doing a damn good job, then dont do it. Leave it to someone else, but $$ is gonna rise a lot but its not worth your and everyone elses safety.
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i call BS on a SAS under $600 with a dana 44 with coils springs and new hd axle shafts...
and how do you figure that a leaf sprung dana 60 will have less flex and worse performance than the stock IFS?
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if a*sholes could fly this place would be an airport -2004 GX470 spm -97 SR5 3.4, SCS Stealth 6's w/305 70 17s MTRs, Icon 2.5" RR w/700#coils, OME861s w/Icon tacoma 2.0 RR, ARBs w/nitro 4.88, PIAA LED lights, 170amp CS144, ARB snorkel, ARB bumper w/xd9000ce, CBI swingout loaded, BudBuilt skids, lil skip tank skid, sliders, LCE 231s(d&s), first gen roll bar mod, LED interior/dash lighting, B&M 70624+perma cool w/electric fan, dual electric fanshttp://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...ld-thread.html
http://www.metaltech4x4.com/
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04-08-2012, 11:27 AM
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#8
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Why the hell do you want to run 38s or 40s on a 4runner anyways. I admire your affection for Toyotas but if you want a mud truck you're going about it wrong. If you want a crawler you're dumb for running 40s on it. The key is keeping your COG down. I you want a crawler on 40s run a buggy. If you want a mud truck on 40s run a full size. Lasty, if you want a mall crawler on 40s run a Jeep.
It also helps if you give us more information. I'm not tryin to bash you, I just hate it when people sign up and the first thing they ask is about SAS'ing their 4runner. The information is out there. Like posted above, if you're asking this question you seriously don't know the first thing about it. Not only that, but A SAC is very time consuming and research is a very big part of it.
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04-09-2012, 03:39 AM
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#9
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Junior Member
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Location: Grass Valley, CA
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HAHA wow! Sorry didn't mean to offend you. Did know you guys were so sensitive! I know there are a lot of different axles you can make work. I was just wondering what people are running. what they liked or dislike, what worked well or didnt.
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04-09-2012, 04:11 AM
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#10
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Elite Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LDForget
Everyone you know that does SAS's use brand new portal axles? lol Im doing one on my raider with a dana 44, 3 link coil sprung, for under 600$. You just gotta find the deals. Thats with brand new HD axles inside of it.
If you wanna run 38's or 40's you're gonna need a bigger axle. A dana 60 will do the job just fine. Ive heard the toyota axles are pretty strong but i wouldnt be sure which to get. Just be sure to budget for everything.
Brackets
Differential (that wont break all the time because of huge tires and abuse)
suspension (wether its links + coils or leafs)
drive shaft
gears
selectable locker
down time
ect.
A leaf sprung dana 60 might flex less and not perform as well as the IFS system, but you wont be breaking cv axles every 5 minutes running 40's. Overall just remember to build it as low as possible, but fitting your tires at full stuff. Center of gravity is important. Look around the interwebs for other SAS swaps, regardless of the vehicle and you'll get a better look at what needs to be done and how you can save in some areas. If your not comfortable with welding, and i mean doing a damn good job, then dont do it. Leave it to someone else, but $$ is gonna rise a lot but its not worth your and everyone elses safety.
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600 dollar sas lol good luck with that one boss. My tires cost more than that, whatever you are smoking send some my way
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04-09-2012, 08:45 AM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7seanc
HAHA wow! Sorry didn't mean to offend you. Did know you guys were so sensitive! I know there are a lot of different axles you can make work. I was just wondering what people are running. what they liked or dislike, what worked well or didnt.
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im going to use a dana44 w the 6 lug pattern and locking hubs off of a wagoneer.
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04-09-2012, 10:48 AM
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#12
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Late 80's Jeep Grand Wagoneer, Dana 44. It is the same width as your rear axle and same bolt pattern.Has the driver side diff. This is what I used on my Tacoma.
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2001 4runner 3.4L Auto 4x4 --manual locking hubs-- Homemade winch bumper---Homemade roof rack---3"Toytec Coils---891 coils w/ ProComp shocks
Coming soon-- Rear bumper (don't know what kind yet)
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04-09-2012, 11:19 AM
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#13
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04-09-2012, 01:20 PM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7seanc
HAHA wow! Sorry didn't mean to offend you. Did know you guys were so sensitive! I know there are a lot of different axles you can make work. I was just wondering what people are running. what they liked or dislike, what worked well or didnt.
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No one was offended or being sensitive. You came in with just a couple posts and asked a really basic question about a very big project. It is totally reasonable to question your ability to do this. Go make this post on yotatech, pirate, or 1h8mud and see what people say.
ARKRWLR was totally right, but you are being sensitive about his comments. What are you trying to build, mudder? rock crawler? Just big tires? Give us something more than just "what axle should I use?"
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04-09-2012, 04:09 PM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the kid
i call BS on a SAS under $600 with a dana 44 with coils springs and new hd axle shafts...
and how do you figure that a leaf sprung dana 60 will have less flex and worse performance than the stock IFS?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t4r4life
600 dollar sas lol good luck with that one boss. My tires cost more than that, whatever you are smoking send some my way
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You can call bull**** all you want. I really couldnt care less about what you guys have to say, lol.
EB D44 with all new bearings + proper gears + good brakes = 100$
new shafts = 300$
new u joints = 20$
diy drive shafts = free
diy steering out of **** i already had = free
diy suspension out of **** i already had = free
misc steel and other **** plus hydro = the difference.
Don't believe me? not my problem.
__________________
98 crv -Slammed, lots of mods.
87 raider - custom lift, 35's, welded diffs.
67(ish) Ford F 250(ish) - 351m, 4 speed manual, dana 21 divorced t case, dana 60's front/rear
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