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Old 09-10-2019, 04:04 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2TH4IST View Post
@eimkeith , Thanks for the reply. That is what I figured regarding the silver/gold nuts. Just finished welding most of the nuts on today and will get the rear tank cross member welded up tonight so if @Tyler James Inc has any pics of the access holes he added that would be awesome!

Awesome on the update on the vid. Last question for now, can the hitch portion (frame mounts, 2x2 tube, safety chain and receiver) be all welded up, then the outer bumper skin be welded on over it? Figuring out my welding game plan. Thanks!
Go ahead and draw a line between hole center and hole center on the 2 unthreaded holes in the bottom of the frame (where the nut strips go), come in about an inch from each hole and drill a 3/8" or so hole on that line in the frame - so you can bolt in and then plug weld the nut strips in position - then you don't need an access hole in the crossmember.

Regarding the cross tube and receiver - I'd tack everything first, then pull it off and go at it. What say you @Tyler James Inc ?
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Old 09-10-2019, 06:27 PM #17
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@2TH4IST & @eimkeith , this is what I got-

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Old 09-10-2019, 07:01 PM #18
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got any more sexy butt pics today? ;)
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Old 09-10-2019, 09:07 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eimkeith View Post
got any more sexy butt pics today? ;)
Sure!
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Old 09-10-2019, 10:51 PM #20
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Here's another ass shot lol. Ended up just putting the nut strip in then welding it up and then bolting down the nut strips untill I get the bumper installed.
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Old 09-10-2019, 11:25 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2TH4IST View Post
Here's another ass shot lol. Ended up just putting the nut strip in then welding it up and then bolting down the nut strips untill I get the bumper installed.
Isn’t the cargo area a great work bench?! The Rear Bumper You Thought Would Never Actually Be Available- eimkeith
Hey, something to consider-
If you want to be able to take the tank out(or, install it) without dropping the bumper, you don’t want those nuts welded to the top of the crossmember.
With them installed the way you currently have them(as I do too, but not welded), the bottom lip of the bumper will cover up the bolts- leaving them not removable.
If you weld the nuts to the bottom of the tank supports, you can still access the bolts from the top bumper cut outs, pull the front bolts, and slide the supports out from under the bottom lip of the bumper. It’s actually perfect, because you can let the straps rest on the lip of the bumper after you take the rear bolts out of the straps.

Does that make sense?
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Old 09-10-2019, 11:31 PM #22
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Also-
For everyone welding the nuts in:
Make sure you wire wheel the coating off any nuts you are going to weld on. These nuts are in areas that are permanently inaccessible once bumper and all brackets are welded in. You don’t want these nuts just poorly tack welded on, and have them break off as soon as you put an impact to them.

TL;DR- Get the coatings off the nuts before welding, and weld them on VERY WELL.
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Old 09-10-2019, 11:52 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyler James Inc View Post
Isn’t the cargo area a great work bench?! The Rear Bumper You Thought Would Never Actually Be Available- eimkeith
Hey, something to consider-
If you want to be able to take the tank out(or, install it) without dropping the bumper, you don’t want those nuts welded to the top of the crossmember.
With them installed the way you currently have them(as I do too, but not welded), the bottom lip of the bumper will cover up the bolts- leaving them not removable.
If you weld the nuts to the bottom of the tank supports, you can still access the bolts from the top bumper cut outs, pull the front bolts, and slide the supports out from under the bottom lip of the bumper. It’s actually perfect, because you can let the straps rest on the lip of the bumper after you take the rear bolts out of the straps.

Does that make sense?
Totally a awesome work bench or catch all.
Yep makes dollars and cents. Looking at the rear bumper skin it would appear that Keith put in some access holes for a shallow 1/4 drive socket with a extension to pop those bolts out, but I could be wrong as I don't have it installed yet. I'd snap a pic but I'm about to jump in the shower. Maybe @eimkeith can chime in on that. Otherwise I'll just cut the nuts off lol. Or reverse it, weld the nuts on the straps and do up the bolts from the top.

I totally agree, strip all the coatings off the nuts and burn those puppies in! No pansy tack welds!

Edit I did have a pic! Slots circled.
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Last edited by 2TH4IST; 09-10-2019 at 11:55 PM.
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Old 09-11-2019, 06:12 AM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2TH4IST View Post
Looking at the rear bumper skin it would appear that Keith put in some access holes for a shallow 1/4 drive socket with a extension to pop those bolts out, but I could be wrong as I don't have it installed yet. Maybe @eimkeith can chime in on that.

Edit I did have a pic! Slots circled.

Yep - those holes & slots are for socket head cap screws to go in from the bottom. Once the receiver assembly is installed, I don't think you'd be able to access the tank straps from the top.
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Old 09-11-2019, 05:45 PM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eimkeith View Post
Yep - those holes & slots are for socket head cap screws to go in from the bottom. Once the receiver assembly is installed, I don't think you'd be able to access the tank straps from the top.
Oh, awesome!
I assumed those were for some type of latching mechanism for a tire carrier The Rear Bumper You Thought Would Never Actually Be Available- eimkeith
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Old 09-11-2019, 05:59 PM #26
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Oh, awesome!
I assumed those were for some type of latching mechanism for a tire carrier The Rear Bumper You Thought Would Never Actually Be Available- eimkeith
no, that'd be low clearance down there, lol.
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Old 09-12-2019, 11:14 AM #27
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Thanks for the pictures. I'm patiently (seriously, I can wait) to see the swingout and how it will work.

I love my current bumper, except for the tire shake....
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