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Old 09-14-2019, 04:24 PM #16
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Making great progress LMS. Sometimes the rust is beyond making work properly again. I cant tell you how many welded on nuts a cut off over the years and welded new ones on.

I had a hose for a while on the breather but unless you are mudding or constantly under water. I dont see the point. I swapped it for a new breather a while ago..


If your that rotted up, keep a real close eye on your 3rd member back plate. Those are fairly thin steel and rot out leaking gear grease out. Best if possible to catch that before it starts leaking. Keep it painted really good and coated with fluid film etc as once it starts seeping. The only thing you can do is drain it super clean it and jb weld epoxy that plate. Then fill it back up with gear grease.

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1997 4X4 V6 5 Speed Sr5 4 Runner (97 5 speed )
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Old 09-14-2019, 04:28 PM #17
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I never had to change rear bearings yet so I cant tell you how long it takes. If you going. to go that route. You definitely need the China freight 20 ton press and that axle bearing puller kit.

If you do that, best to pull it all the way down and change that brake back plate as those get super rusty and rotted around here. :[



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Old 09-14-2019, 06:24 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
Making great progress LMS. Sometimes the rust is beyond making work properly again. I cant tell you how many welded on nuts a cut off over the years and welded new ones on.

I had a hose for a while on the breather but unless you are mudding or constantly under water. I dont see the point. I swapped it for a new breather a while ago..


If your that rotted up, keep a real close eye on your 3rd member back plate. Those are fairly thin steel and rot out leaking gear grease out. Best if possible to catch that before it starts leaking. Keep it painted really good and coated with fluid film etc as once it starts seeping. The only thing you can do is drain it super clean it and jb weld epoxy that plate. Then fill it back up with gear grease.

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Brillo,

Interesting point you make about the back plate?
I look and notice some thin sheet metal rusted to shreds, but the basic back plate where the pads and other items bolt to is fine, so a bit confused as to where or if anything is needed. When its time to go after those bearings it will be just as well to replace what has rotted back of that plate I guess.

I started working on removing the side bumper, and man are those bolts a *****, got one off and using PB blaster and letting the others soak overnite! I had to use the torch and almost started the truck on fire, lol The torch did not do a dam thing for the cable attachment of the brake cable??

Working on these suckers after all this salt is a royal PITA......
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Old 09-15-2019, 11:20 AM #19
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3rd member is your differential housing back plate. Those rot through at leak the gear grease.


On the axles. The brake plate gets thin. The salt eats them alive. On all my rigs I don't have any super bad on the axles. However, if your going to do the rear axle bearings. It's best to inspect that plate and replace if necessary as its behind all that axle bearings, abs ring, spacers etc.



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Old 10-09-2020, 08:17 PM #20
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Alas, the Parking brake saga continues..........

I start the other side and what do I find but the drivers side cable
is hanging from the brake drum? Tries to remove the broken bolt
with a torch and a socket wrench but was just rounding over the shank.
To make matter worse I pull the drum and what do I find, a bunch of
gear oil inside the drum covering the pads? Can't believe It was still
breaking without me noticing and no smoke either? Now I have two
problems to deal with? Anybody have a suggestion for the brake cable
support other than replace the cable as a unit?
I have this exact problem. That pivot was seized, and i tried to remove it to clean it and it resulted in a broken bolt. I wasn't able to adjust the drum brakes with the e-brake after that because it doesn't click. Were you able to get that sucker out? I ordered a new bolt from Toyota yesterday.

EDIT: Did you just put a nut on top of the plate after you cut the welded part off? If thats the case, then i don't have to stress cause that's an easy job!

Last edited by FD7683; 10-09-2020 at 08:23 PM.
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Old 10-10-2020, 11:29 AM #21
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Every 4Runner I bought required the bellcranks to be replaced. I used ones from napa.


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Old 10-10-2020, 06:30 PM #22
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Bell cranks are notorious for freezing. No idea why they didn't make them out of stainless to prevent the rust belt rusting.

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Old 10-10-2020, 10:19 PM #23
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The one's I replaced all fell apart upon removal! it was like rocks inside the rubber bushing.
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