Quote:
Originally Posted by Toy2play
I'm curious why the reading off the OBD-II port is so off. Mine is only off by about .1 volts from reading directly off the battery and my scan gauge. I'm also running the same cs144 and big 3.
When you converted the alternator connection from GM to Toyota, did you spice into the wires or did you buy a pigtail?
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I bought a pigtail that worked fine. That's the next test I'm going to try and do. EDIT: Pigtail tested fine, all wires has 7 or less ohms.
Ok a few updates. Took some readings:
Battery to chassis ground - 1 ohm.
Alternator case to chassis ground - 1 ohm.
Alternator post to battery positive - 25 ohms. Is this too high? EDIT: I removed the cables from the positive battery post, cleaned them up and got this down to 2 ohms. Pretty happy about that. Should help with the voltage drop too.
When the vehicle is off, I have a draw of 80 miliamps. Pretty sure that's my amps, not too worried about that.
Voltage drop from Alternator positive to battery positive is 0.07V-0.11V (a bit high???)
Voltage drop from Alternator case to battery negative is 0.05V
And some battery voltage tests while running after I cleaned off all connections and grounds:
Startup: 14.2V
Idling with all accessories on: 13.2V-13.9V. Drops to 13.2V only when fan kicks on with ALL accessories on. That includes light bars and all that so a lot of current being drawn.
1500 RPM with all accessories on: 14.0V
I think that points to my alternator working fine, and my battery being fine. I also found a short on my e-fan wiring that I think is causing some resistance, the connector looks burnt so I need to re-do that part of the wiring. That might be part of the issue of why the voltage drops so much when the fan kicks on.
Any thoughts? At this point I think I'm good to go for driving since it's putting a solid 14.0V at the battery while the engine is running. Looks like it was a wiring issue after all!