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Old 09-19-2019, 01:57 PM #16
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Originally Posted by 3bears View Post
you say you did the cs144 alternator..and you have tested 2 other alternators, are they also the cs144 ?
can you take them into a shop/parts place for free testing.

You say noise gets louder and volts drop with the more they run...bearings ?

recently went through this on a non Toyota, voltage drop over time/distance regardless of speed. Ended up being a bad/loose cable.
I already shipped the "bad" one back as a warranty replacement to RockAuto. Seeing that it reads exactly like the new one they sent to me (new, not reman'd) I don't think it was bad to begin with.

I agree, I need to double check all my wiring and finish replacing the fuses. I just don't know how to find which wire it is that's causing my headache.
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Old 09-19-2019, 02:07 PM #17
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Do you have access to a DC clamp on amp meter?


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Old 09-19-2019, 02:37 PM #18
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The voltage regulator on the CS and our Denso altís are temp compensated.

My voltage at the battery is usually 13.8 after the Alt gets to operating temp.

It be nice to know how many amps your Alt is pushing when you have a low voltage condition. That CS may be rated at 150a but it wonít push that at idle.


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Old 09-19-2019, 03:24 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5 View Post
The voltage regulator on the CS and our Denso alt’s are temp compensated.

My voltage at the battery is usually 13.8 after the Alt gets to operating temp.

It be nice to know how many amps your Alt is pushing when you have a low voltage condition. That CS may be rated at 150a but it won’t push that at idle.


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I will try and get that. I will need a helper with someone on the brakes in case my 4Runner tries to run away lol. I just have a hard time believing having the headlights on and the climate control running would overload the alternator.
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Old 09-19-2019, 04:08 PM #20
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Charging Issue with New Battery and Alternator

With everything on in park at 700rpm I had 58.5a coming out of the Alt and voltage was 13.8 at the cig lighter the whole time. Iím sure in gear at 600rpm it would be less.

2.5a were going to the battery.


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Old 09-19-2019, 04:50 PM #21
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With a Alt thatís up to temp.....

In gear with the brake on and headlights I was at 13.1v at the cig lighter.

Turning everything else on under the same condition had me down to 12.3v


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Old 09-19-2019, 05:57 PM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5 View Post
With a Alt thatís up to temp.....

In gear with the brake on and headlights I was at 13.1v at the cig lighter.

Turning everything else on under the same condition had me down to 12.3v


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Thanks, that info is helpful. I shouldn't be anywhere near that with a 140A vs a stock 80A, let alone dropping as low as I am. I bought a simple cig lighter volt reader so I'm not having to do it through the OBD-II port which seems to be lower than everything else.
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Old 09-19-2019, 06:19 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5 View Post
With a Alt thatís up to temp.....

In gear with the brake on and headlights I was at 13.1v at the cig lighter.

Turning everything else on under the same condition had me down to 12.3v


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12.3 with the engine running? you need a bigger alt man. you're going to kill your battery.
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Old 09-19-2019, 06:42 PM #24
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12.3 with the engine running? you need a bigger alt man. you're going to kill your battery.


I replaced the voltage regulator in it and Iím not happy with its performance. Itís the 70a. I have a good 80a I should just put on.


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Old 09-19-2019, 07:55 PM #25
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Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5 View Post
I replaced the voltage regulator in it and Iím not happy with its performance. Itís the 70a. I have a good 80a I should just put on.


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After doing the CS144 swap several times now, the stock alternator is stupid easy to get in and out! Don't even have to remove the battery tray.

I will get back home to my 4Runner soon and I'll post up on my findings. Thanks to everyone who helped with data & suggestions, here's to hoping I find the culprit once and for all.
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Old 09-19-2019, 09:12 PM #26
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Thanks, that info is helpful. I shouldn't be anywhere near that with a 140A vs a stock 80A, let alone dropping as low as I am. I bought a simple cig lighter volt reader so I'm not having to do it through the OBD-II port which seems to be lower than everything else.
I'm curious why the reading off the OBD-II port is so off. Mine is only off by about .1 volts from reading directly off the battery and my scan gauge. I'm also running the same cs144 and big 3.

When you converted the alternator connection from GM to Toyota, did you spice into the wires or did you buy a pigtail?
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Old 09-19-2019, 09:57 PM #27
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Sounds like you just need to keep plugging away.

Had a friend whose modded 300zx kept blowing alternators (read six at least) and they got hot, every one. Turns out that one of his lugs on a custom cable to the ALT had become loose and was causing some sort of high amperage draw. A new cable solved his problems.

I would throw the 80amp alternator back in and see if the same problems manifest themselves.
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Old 09-19-2019, 10:31 PM #28
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I'm curious why the reading off the OBD-II port is so off. Mine is only off by about .1 volts from reading directly off the battery and my scan gauge. I'm also running the same cs144 and big 3.

When you converted the alternator connection from GM to Toyota, did you spice into the wires or did you buy a pigtail?


Good question. Iíve mentioned before that that adapter could be suspect. Those CS altís are pretty hardy and as simple as the Denso. Now if he spliced......I hope it was solder with a western-union splice and shrink tube.


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Old 09-19-2019, 11:18 PM #29
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I'm curious why the reading off the OBD-II port is so off. Mine is only off by about .1 volts from reading directly off the battery and my scan gauge. I'm also running the same cs144 and big 3.

When you converted the alternator connection from GM to Toyota, did you spice into the wires or did you buy a pigtail?
I bought a pigtail that worked fine. That's the next test I'm going to try and do. EDIT: Pigtail tested fine, all wires has 7 or less ohms.

Ok a few updates. Took some readings:

Battery to chassis ground - 1 ohm.
Alternator case to chassis ground - 1 ohm.
Alternator post to battery positive - 25 ohms. Is this too high? EDIT: I removed the cables from the positive battery post, cleaned them up and got this down to 2 ohms. Pretty happy about that. Should help with the voltage drop too.

When the vehicle is off, I have a draw of 80 miliamps. Pretty sure that's my amps, not too worried about that.

Voltage drop from Alternator positive to battery positive is 0.07V-0.11V (a bit high???)
Voltage drop from Alternator case to battery negative is 0.05V

And some battery voltage tests while running after I cleaned off all connections and grounds:

Startup: 14.2V
Idling with all accessories on: 13.2V-13.9V. Drops to 13.2V only when fan kicks on with ALL accessories on. That includes light bars and all that so a lot of current being drawn.
1500 RPM with all accessories on: 14.0V

I think that points to my alternator working fine, and my battery being fine. I also found a short on my e-fan wiring that I think is causing some resistance, the connector looks burnt so I need to re-do that part of the wiring. That might be part of the issue of why the voltage drops so much when the fan kicks on.

Any thoughts? At this point I think I'm good to go for driving since it's putting a solid 14.0V at the battery while the engine is running. Looks like it was a wiring issue after all!
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Old 09-20-2019, 12:17 AM #30
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I re-wired my e-fan and it doesn't draw as many volts down now!

THANK YOU for everyone's help and input. Thanks @19963.4lsr5 for giving me some voltage readings to compare to as well, that made it much easier to see if I was off base or not. The Turd lives on!
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