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Old 09-20-2019, 12:44 PM #31
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Drove it this morning for a good 30 minutes. Voltage reported between 12.4 - 13.0V via OBD-II, which from my testing yesterday means about 13.9 - 14.5V at the battery. It dropped momentarily to 12.0V when my fan kicked on at idle but came back up quickly. Looks like my positive battery cable connections was the culprit after all! I learned a lot from all this and even though the cable "looked fine" with no corrosion, there was enough dirt and grime that found its way in to make the connection deteriorate.
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Old 09-20-2019, 01:14 PM #32
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Iím going to do the voltage drop test on my rig between the Alt charge post, Underwood junction box, and battery myself before I call my aftermarket voltage regulator junk.


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Old 09-20-2019, 01:57 PM #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc View Post
Voltage reported between 12.4 - 13.0V via OBD-II, which from my testing yesterday means about 13.9 - 14.5V at the battery.
I wonder what is up with that. My Ultraguage measures within .1 or .2 of battery voltage.

You could put your DVM on the 12V pin of the OBD2 port to see if it is a voltage drop in your wiring or if it is a misreporting by the device you are using. What are you using on the OBD2 anyhow?
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Old 09-20-2019, 02:35 PM #34
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I wonder what is up with that. My Ultraguage measures within .1 or .2 of battery voltage.

You could put your DVM on the 12V pin of the OBD2 port to see if it is a voltage drop in your wiring or if it is a misreporting by the device you are using. What are you using on the OBD2 anyhow?
It could very well be the bluetooth reader. It's never been that high (13.1V is the highest I've ever seen in 5 years of having it), it's the BAFX cheapo reader off Amazon so I'm not expecting the world from it. However, it does seem to rise and drop in proportion to the battery voltage accurately.

I have no low voltage issues anywhere in the cabin so I haven't really worried about it much. Headlights don't dim or anything like that so I think it's probably just the reader. I did order a cigarette lighter voltage reader though which I'm interested to see if that's more accurate: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 09-20-2019, 03:34 PM #35
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Redo your pcm grounds on the intake manifold. Or check the crimp voltage drop to the negative battery terminal. The ground crimps could be corroding. If so redo the crimps and solder the crimps after crimping to remove any chance or corrosion later.

For grounds I use non insulated crimps.


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Old 09-20-2019, 04:51 PM #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc View Post
Startup: 14.2V
Idling with all accessories on: 13.2V-13.9V. Drops to 13.2V only when fan kicks on with ALL accessories on. That includes light bars and all that so a lot of current being drawn.
1500 RPM with all accessories on: 14.0V
These are all perfect numbers. The voltage reported via OBD-II should be what the ECU is receiving - you likely have bad grounds or power to the ECU, which is probably worth checking out! Check grounds, re-seat connectors, relays and fuses, etc.

-Charlie
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Old 09-20-2019, 05:11 PM #37
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I see a lot of guess work here. START WITH SIMPLE AND FREE THINGS FIRST.
The one thing in common with those alts is the wiring. If the third alt fixed the problem, it was because disconnecting and re-connecting connector rubs off oxidation on the pins.
Toyota components are bullet-proof. Bad wiring usually causes problems. had what looked like a serious problem last week, only to find out it was a bad "S" pin connection. Fixed by cleaning and tightening connector pins.

Quote:
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Isn't there supposed to be battery voltage fed TO the alternator on one or them to make the alternator work?
Quote:
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... I have read about broken wires right on the connector, maybe a good visual will turn up something.
Yes this^^^
S- wire senses battery voltage. If this is broken, you would get over-voltage
IG - wire "excites" the alternator. If this is broken you will not get charging, low charge if high IG is almost broken (high resistance).
L - is merely fault light signal it will not prevent alternator from doing its job. It should be close to 12V when system is working well. Close to ero when there is a system fault.
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Last edited by RAD4Runner; 09-20-2019 at 08:08 PM.
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Old 09-20-2019, 06:05 PM #38
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Looks like I got me some grounds to clean!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 19963.4lsr5 View Post
Redo your pcm grounds on the intake manifold. Or check the crimp voltage drop to the negative battery terminal. The ground crimps could be corroding. If so redo the crimps and solder the crimps after crimping to remove any chance or corrosion later.

For grounds I use non insulated crimps.


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I will take a look at it and clean. I don't remember ever cleaning it and my engine bay gets grimey with oil + dust.

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Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
These are all perfect numbers. The voltage reported via OBD-II should be what the ECU is receiving - you likely have bad grounds or power to the ECU, which is probably worth checking out! Check grounds, re-seat connectors, relays and fuses, etc.

-Charlie
By chance do you recall where the ECU ground point is? I think I remember it being behind the passenger's side kick panel but I might be mixing it up in my head with something else.
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Old 09-20-2019, 07:59 PM #39
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I coat my terminals both battery and all my grounds in a conductive grease.

I use this stuff. If it can keep aluminum ground lugs in the bottom of our manholes at work clean between our yearly inspections of the high voltage distribution it will work under the hood of a car a long time.

One 15-29 dollar tube of this stuff will last two generations.


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Old 09-21-2019, 12:34 AM #40
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Quote:
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I wonder what is up with that. My Ultraguage measures within .1 or .2 of battery voltage.

You could put your DVM on the 12V pin of the OBD2 port to see if it is a voltage drop in your wiring or if it is a misreporting by the device you are using. What are you using on the OBD2 anyhow?
You called it, it's my OBD-II reader. I get a solid 12.5V at the port itself with key ON. Time to try and explain to the wife why I need another car gadget...

On the plus side, the cheapo cig lighter voltage reader read at 12.4V. I'll use that from now on I think.
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Old 09-21-2019, 11:40 AM #41
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This is mine. I also have a usb Charger that displays voltage if nothing is being charged.


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Old 09-21-2019, 05:26 PM #42
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Hot up to to temp Alternator.

Headlights, AC with fan in speed 3, in gear with foot on brake idling at 600-650rpm I had 41a coming out of the Alt and 2.5a coming out of the battery and battery voltage at the posts was 12.7v. My cig lighter shown 12.3 at the same time.

In park idling at 750rpm the post voltage was 13.6 and Alt was pushing 51 amps.

I had .1v drop between the Alt output (12.8v) post and the battery (12.7v). Thinking about it, I forgot to measure the Alt output at the Underwood junction box.

Iím using a Fluke AC/DC clamp on amp meter.


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Old 09-21-2019, 08:39 PM #43
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Quote:
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Hot up to to temp Alternator.

Headlights, AC with fan in speed 3, in gear with foot on brake idling at 600-650rpm I had 41a coming out of the Alt and 2.5a coming out of the battery and battery voltage at the posts was 12.7v. My cig lighter shown 12.3 at the same time.

In park idling at 750rpm the post voltage was 13.6 and Alt was pushing 51 amps.

I had .1v drop between the Alt output (12.8v) post and the battery (12.7v). Thinking about it, I forgot to measure the Alt output at the Underwood junction box.

I’m using a Fluke AC/DC clamp on amp meter.


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I drove mine around today for a good 45 min at at idle with A/C brake, e-fan on etc. I was at 13.4V at the lowest, 13.8V at the highest. But that's why I did the big 3 plus a bigger alternator, more power at low RPM's so I don't wear down my battery.

I'm not sure if your voltage readings are bad, or just need to clean up the positive side like I did. Some online sources said a voltage drop of 0.1V or higher indicates a problem. But I've done 0 reading on a stock DENSO alt so maybe that's normal.
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