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Old 09-23-2019, 09:49 AM #16
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Great to know, that Water_Displacement formula 40, that was designed to keep nuclear and ballistic misses from rusting.. Does Great on the Chassis.. I thought it would be hard on the rubber components. Glad to know it is not..
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Old 09-23-2019, 10:04 AM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j4run View Post
Sarki --

Just looking at the pics. In the 6th picture down you can see a body mount in the top right corner. It looks like the rubber bushing has failed, and the top of the bushing has fallen apart - note the space of maybe 1/2 or 3/4 inch.

All 5 of my Rigs center body mounts [on both sides] look exactly like that. At first I thought they failed. But not all 10. Even my one with the perfect frame has that same spacing. So unless i had 10 body mounts fail the exact same way, That is how they are supposed to be. Which doesn't make any sense at all.


Regarding the OEM body mounts . . .

It was by design though to leave that spacing there was on purpose...;-)
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Old 09-23-2019, 10:19 AM #18
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WD-40 lasts and lasts, I still have last Februarys coating fully intact (my undercarriage never ever gets washed). Although I apply every snow season for 100% effectiveness. All oil type coatings use work on same principal. Proven effective for many decades by the old timers. Even stuff like Canola oil will work. With WD-40 you can also coat over rust and it will infuse in the scale and turn black and form a barrier for any further progression. I like WD-40 cause it is very thin and you can spray it on everything.
As with anything, you can half ass or not be full effective if you don't use common sense. Any coating **no matter what it is** will be broken down by repeated salting over time.....that is why seasonal or repeated applications are important.
The best method for rust prevention is the one that works for you, there is not only one formula. I spend less than 1 hour per year on rust prevention for 100% effectiveness on undercarriage and body. Here's todays closeup of the hot spot rear LCA mount. Anybody that sticks their head under my 20 yr old 370K+ mile rig is amazed at the condition for my salty region. This 4runner has been in salt country its whole life, and I drive salty roads with piece of mind I'm protected. I don't see that many 3rd gens on the road in my area anymore thanks to salt, but I'm still here solid and black.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3174013-post1.html
Dogtail,

Thanks for the info and link to original post!
Have you been doing this treatment since new purchase or did you buy it used, and how old was it when purchased? Thanks

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Old 09-23-2019, 11:22 AM #19
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Originally Posted by Last Man Standing View Post
Dogtail,

Thanks for the info and link to original post!
Have you been doing this treatment since new purchase or did you buy it used, and how old was it when purchased? Thanks

LMS
Bought it with 139K miles, has 373K miles now. Been treating it since I picked it up. Its my DD.
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Old 09-23-2019, 11:54 AM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
All 5 of my Rigs center body mounts [on both sides] look exactly like that. At first I thought they failed. But not all 10. Even my one with the perfect frame has that same spacing. So unless i had 10 body mounts fail the exact same way, That is how they are supposed to be. Which doesn't make any sense at all.


Regarding the OEM body mounts . . .

It was by design though to leave that spacing there was on purpose...;-)
I was about to post this. Yes, that body mount is 100% fine. Even the aftermarket poly mounts from Energy Suspension have that gap.

-Charlie
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Old 09-23-2019, 11:59 AM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
All 5 of my Rigs center body mounts [on both sides] look exactly like that. At first I thought they failed. But not all 10. Even my one with the perfect frame has that same spacing. So unless i had 10 body mounts fail the exact same way, That is how they are supposed to be. Which doesn't make any sense at all.


Regarding the OEM body mounts . . .

It was by design though to leave that spacing there was on purpose...;-)
Brillo to the rescue!
Thank you j4run, was going to do some research on that center bushing/mount as I had noticed it before and was wondering why it was not a full sized bushing.
I had even taken additional pictures and was going to start a separate thread if I wasnít able to find an explanation.
Canít imagine thereís enough flexing in the frame as the explanation mentioned in the included link but who really knows.
Iím just happy to hear that itís the way it came from the factory and that iím not going to have to start replacing mounts.
A bit more rust removal with wire wheel though I think almost ready for a final visit to the car wash where I can hit the undercarriage with power wash before starting to apply the grease remover, metal prep and coating it with POR-15.
Iíll obviously wait a few days for it to fully dry after the power wash to start the final process.
Picture of rear & center mounts below:
Attached Images
POR-15 or just Fluid Film-f34d3fb8-0e2d-4a92-a034-dc9d3f5dc160-jpg  POR-15 or just Fluid Film-907859a1-1197-42d7-a229-1a7a75b5bc8a-jpg  POR-15 or just Fluid Film-9d9c25d1-89af-4b8c-9294-1a624228163c-jpg  POR-15 or just Fluid Film-57b9a4b4-67b4-45a4-afa0-6400cde50fdc-jpg 
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Old 09-23-2019, 12:33 PM #22
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Behind the body frame mounts. Are those rotted out and no steel left? Or just shadows etc. If that's rotted out. You be plating like I do very soon. ..;)

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Old 09-23-2019, 12:39 PM #23
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Behind the body frame mounts. Are those rotted out and no steel left? Or just shadows etc. If that's rotted out. You be plating like I do very soon. ..;)

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No rot or rust through anywhere, thatís just some dirt that I missed when i first hit with power washer.
Hence another visit with the power washer planned for later today.
Hoping iíve removed enough of the surface rust at this point as planning to start the POR-15 process......thoughts?
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Old 09-23-2019, 02:01 PM #24
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Originally Posted by Sarki View Post
Hoping iíve removed enough of the surface rust at this point as planning to start the POR-15 process......thoughts?
POR-15 likes rust, so I'd just go for it. Use the recommended process - degreaser, metal etch/prep, then POR-15. Fun!
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Old 09-23-2019, 02:17 PM #25
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I bought a cheap pneumatic scaler from Harbor Freight (less than $30). This got into places impossible to reach with wire wheel, grinder, etc. It worked really well and I highly recommended
-
Never used one before but I do have a compressor.
Any chance you can provide specifics on the one you used or even better, a link.
I see there are lots of different models/styles available.
Would also consider a battery powered unit if anyone has recommendations if they are that useful for getting rid of surface rust and cleaning up metal.
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Old 09-23-2019, 02:31 PM #26
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POR-15 likes rust, so I'd just go for it. Use the recommended process - degreaser, metal etch/prep, then POR-15. Fun!
LEON!!!..........got all my products lined up and ready to go. Just want to make sure I have everything cleaned up enough to make this a success as no way I want to have to do this again!
Will wait a couple weeks after applying the POR-15 products to hit the entire undercarriage with Fluid Film which will then become an annual event every Fall.
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POR-15 or just Fluid Film-e0b103c1-8ed7-4157-9ba2-882edcd2766c-jpg 
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Old 09-23-2019, 02:36 PM #27
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Make sure you use what you need of the POR15 in one sitting. I mangled the top getting the can open, and even with a couple nitrile gloves covering the top, it hardened up on the top , I had to crack through it to get to the wet paint.


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Old 09-23-2019, 02:45 PM #28
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Great write up guys!

I just FF the under carriage and did not even know about this POR-15
product. I did buy a air driven sprayer off Ebay and an additional wand that
has a 32" reach for inside the frame. Assuming this setup will be OK for POR-15 /
WD 40 application? Won't do this until next summer though.

Fluid Film(R) & Woolwax(R) & Standard Spray Gun. With extension wand ! | eBay

Fluid Film / Woolwax Undercoating Pro Gun 360* Flexible Spray Wand. 32" | eBay

LMS
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Old 09-23-2019, 03:04 PM #29
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Make sure you use what you need of the POR15 in one sitting. I mangled the top getting the can open, and even with a couple nitrile gloves covering the top, it hardened up on the top , I had to crack through it to get to the wet paint.


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Spoke with tech rep @ POR who told me some guys never actually open the can but puncture the top with sheetmetal screws (2 so it pours easier) with rubber washers and pour small amount as needed into small container for immediate use.
After pouring some out they just seat the screws w/rubber washers into the top so all good for next time.
Iíll give it a shot.
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Old 09-23-2019, 03:31 PM #30
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Spoke with tech rep @ POR who told me some guys never actually open the can but puncture the top with sheetmetal screws (2 so it pours easier) with rubber washers and pour small amount as needed into small container for immediate use.
After pouring some out they just seat the screws w/rubber washers into the top so all good for next time.
Iíll give it a shot.
Thatís a great suggestion! Mine has always gone off on me.
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