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Old 09-22-2019, 09:52 AM #1
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A $12 Part That May Have Cost Me Dearly

Well, did the Pumpkin vent cap and after taking the old one out it appears
the rust belt may have contributed to the demise of my axle seals going bad? This vent cap is in the worst spot when driving in a winter area that's salts roads................

I decided to go the extra step that "Timmy The Tool Man " showed in his video and let me tell to the one tip he gave was to drop the spare, should have listened to his words of wisdom, lol Now that the vent is inside the gs cap area that sucker won't need replacing again. The 02 has 170K on it so well past it's needed replacement time frame in these parts.

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Last edited by Last Man Standing; 09-24-2019 at 03:51 AM. Reason: corrected to axle seals
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Old 09-22-2019, 12:38 PM #2
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Yup it amazing how bad those rust up. I figure better check every 5 years replace every 10. Same as the denso radiator.

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Old 09-22-2019, 12:54 PM #3
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Yup it amazing how bad those rust up. I figure better check every 5 years replace every 10. Same as the denso radiator.

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Extending the vent hose up the fuel filler neck is a great mod. I find that the Denso radiator trans coolers fail at about 15-20 years. It's something I recommend as a precaution to customers with 3rd gen T4R's, Tacos, and 1st gen Tundras with automatics.
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Old 09-22-2019, 03:45 PM #4
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Originally Posted by MaineRunna View Post
Extending the vent hose up the fuel filler neck is a great mod. I find that the Denso radiator trans coolers fail at about 15-20 years. It's something I recommend as a precaution to customers with 3rd gen T4R's, Tacos, and 1st gen Tundras with automatics.
MaineRunna,

Thank you very much for that suggestion as I had not thought of that in my lineup of upgrades to the 02!

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Old 09-23-2019, 10:01 AM #5
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If that was stuck and forcing oil out past the seals, it's very likely that fixing it will stop the leak. The seals are spring loaded, it's not like a little oil pushed past them will make them go bad. You will need to take the drums off and clean up the mess inside though. And probably put new shoes on - there's no good way to get oil out of the linings.
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Old 09-23-2019, 11:38 AM #6
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Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
If that was stuck and forcing oil out past the seals, it's very likely that fixing it will stop the leak. The seals are spring loaded, it's not like a little oil pushed past them will make them go bad. You will need to take the drums off and clean up the mess inside though. And probably put new shoes on - there's no good way to get oil out of the linings.
JohnMc,

My other concern is has the grease been washed away from the bearings as well? There is the elephant in the room
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Old 09-23-2019, 11:51 AM #7
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Are your brakes contaminated? If so, I would think it is beyond a stuck breather and now Leaking seal time.

When I caught my leaking seals, it was still in the abs cavity and not beyond. The bearings were essentially grease free at that point with the sludge in the abs cavity. I replaced the bearings as they were original at 175,000 km. New ones were tighter.
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Last edited by Kanoe; 09-23-2019 at 11:56 AM.
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Old 09-23-2019, 11:52 AM #8
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What does the rear main seal have to do with the rear diff? Were you referring to your outer axle seals?
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Old 09-23-2019, 12:01 PM #9
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What does the rear main seal have to do with the rear diff? Were you referring to your outer axle seals?
Yes, my bad......Corrected the mistake in above post. Thanks

Last edited by Last Man Standing; 09-24-2019 at 03:52 AM.
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Old 09-23-2019, 12:25 PM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaineRunna View Post
Extending the vent hose up the fuel filler neck is a great mod. I find that the Denso radiator trans coolers fail at about 15-20 years. It's something I recommend as a precaution to customers with 3rd gen T4R's, Tacos, and 1st gen Tundras with automatics.
I did that for a while and changed it back. Being mine are mainly DD and road use. No need to extend my breather. Great tip of the rads if closer to 15-20 years I would exchange them at 10 years. Not much worse then the milkshake..:/

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Old 09-23-2019, 04:03 PM #11
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JohnMc,

My other concern is has the grease been washed away from the bearings as well? There is the elephant in the room
They will let you know if they have gone bad. Just lift the wheels in the rear, shift to neutral and give them a good spin. Make sure the brakes aren't dragging but if it sounds quiet with only a few clicks and such you are good.

I replaced my bearings 2 years ago only to have the seal fail again a few months later. I didn't replace the bearings a second time and they are just fine. Not much, if any, oil made it past the outer seal.
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Old 09-24-2019, 07:31 AM #12
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They will let you know if they have gone bad. Just lift the wheels in the rear, shift to neutral and give them a good spin. Make sure the brakes aren't dragging but if it sounds quiet with only a few clicks and such you are good.

I replaced my bearings 2 years ago only to have the seal fail again a few months later. I didn't replace the bearings a second time and they are just fine. Not much, if any, oil made it past the outer seal.
gamefreakgc,

Thanks for the thoughts and suggestions!
I did spin the wheels however I was not paying attention to this point during my repair of the parking brakes. I will try and do that this weekend? The fact your seal failed has been on my mind especially after watching Tim's video on the method he used to solve this by inverting the bearing retainer so the bevel faces the hub instead of the oil seal? Seems like he only gained an additional 1/16" of increase on the surface of the retainer! To bad someone hasn't made a larger retainer due to this issue.

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Old 09-24-2019, 09:33 AM #13
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To bad someone hasn't made a larger retainer due to this issue.

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Thing is, there isn’t room in there for a larger retainer. It’s a space of mm between the retainer and the axle housing as it is. That’s why the flip and maybe scootching 1 mm in is about as good as you can get. Then you run out of clearance.
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Old 09-24-2019, 09:53 AM #14
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Thing is, there isn’t room in there for a larger retainer. It’s a space of mm between the retainer and the axle housing as it is. That’s why the flip and maybe scootching 1 mm in is about as good as you can get. Then you run out of clearance.
Kanoe,

Makes sense then, wonder what the designers had in mind for such a limited
amount of surface contact with the retainer? Perhaps a wear issue to the seal
surface? I don't want to go thru the process to see it fail or be short lived that's for sure.....Thanks for the insight on this.

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Old 09-24-2019, 07:07 PM #15
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Quote:
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gamefreakgc,

Thanks for the thoughts and suggestions!
I did spin the wheels however I was not paying attention to this point during my repair of the parking brakes. I will try and do that this weekend? The fact your seal failed has been on my mind especially after watching Tim's video on the method he used to solve this by inverting the bearing retainer so the bevel faces the hub instead of the oil seal? Seems like he only gained an additional 1/16" of increase on the surface of the retainer! To bad someone hasn't made a larger retainer due to this issue.

LMS
That's what stopped my leak, flipping the retainer. The poor machine shop was so confused and almost refused to do it because it's wrong but it worked so far, no more leaks.
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