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-   -   3rd gen 4Runner Frame Rust Repair Kit (https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/277886-3rd-gen-4runner-frame-rust-repair-kit.html)

brillo_76 10-01-2019 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by suncoug (Post 3364976)
Many thanks for your advice on this. I have actually bought an another vehicle, so I don't feel the time pressure. Still, I do want to get it back on the road before the winter.



So, for now, I plan on installing the LCA/Frame kits from Autorust. Slipping in the heavy duty pipe inside the crossmember and welding the mounts on. I will also figure out outboarding the shocks. I already bought a set is made for Ford trucks that helps with this. I will need a longer pair of shocks and spacer, but I really don't want to tackle replacing the shock/coil plates now, though I have the parts.



BTW, are you sure the length of the pipe needs to be 43". I bought a 48" pipe and it appeared to be the perfect length.

I will verify when I get home. I have 43" in my notes on my phone. As I have 2 3 gens in my garage. I can easily verify this. :]

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brillo_76 10-01-2019 11:36 PM

Yes I am 100% sure my pipes are 43 inches. Unless your pipe is sticking out 1.5 inches past mine on both sides. I honestly don't know what to say. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0f4e8e3bfa.jpg

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suncoug 10-02-2019 01:27 PM

Thanks for your looking into this and the picture. It appears that my note was off.

brillo_76 10-03-2019 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by suncoug (Post 3365447)
Thanks for your looking into this and the picture. It appears that my note was off.

No problem. Glad I could help a fellow 3rd gen owner out.

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hamsme 05-16-2021 10:27 PM

Upper Rear Control Arm
 
Anyone got any advice for fixing this? This is the rear control arm bracket connection with the axle. Haven't found many other people online with this issue.https://i.imgur.com/9Mlr6D7.jpg

Bad Luck 05-17-2021 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hamsme (Post 3638052)
Anyone got any advice for fixing this? This is the rear control arm bracket connection with the axle. Haven't found many other people online with this issue.https://i.imgur.com/9Mlr6D7.jpg

Maybe bend it back, weld it, then weld these on there for reinforcement: Upper Link Mount Reinforcement – eimkeith.com

hamsme 05-18-2021 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bad Luck (Post 3638238)
Maybe bend it back, weld it, then weld these on there for reinforcement: Upper Link Mount Reinforcement – eimkeith.com

Thanks this is exactly what I was looking for!

Leebo 09-18-2021 04:42 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Glad I found this thread! My 99 4Runner has rust-cancer on the rear portion of the frame rails. The left side area where the hitch mounts to the frame is very bad, as well as where the left frame mounts to the rear body mount. The right side isn't quite as bad, but it's not far behind. The rust on the left side is bad enough now that the body has separated from the frame/cab mount. Shaking the hitch causes a "clunk" where the rusted remanence of the cab mount hits the body. There is absolutely no way I'd tow anything without fixing this first, and I know I'll be towing about a 2000lb load in a couple months (i.e. I need to get on the fix right away).

I'm thinking of buying the ART-221-S and ART-222-S to repair the frame sections and body mounts on both the left and right sides. From what I can tell, this looks like it would produce an acceptable fix. I don't seem to have much noticeable frame rust forward of the spare tire cross member, but the inner section of the left frame from the spare tire cross member to the frame rear end is almost totally gone from rust.

Just thinking out loud and sharing. Anyone else fighting rust in this same area and successfully repair theirs? Does this seem like a good plan? I've done a little welding in the past, but a good friend of mine (I'm lobbying to help) is a very experienced welder and has good MIG welding equipment.

brillo_76 09-18-2021 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leebo (Post 3673772)
Glad I found this thread! My 99 4Runner has rust-cancer on the rear portion of the frame rails. The left side area where the hitch mounts to the frame is very bad, as well as where the left frame mounts to the rear body mount. The right side isn't quite as bad, but it's not far behind. The rust on the left side is bad enough now that the body has separated from the frame/cab mount. Shaking the hitch causes a "clunk" where the rusted remanence of the cab mount hits the body. There is absolutely no way I'd tow anything without fixing this first, and I know I'll be towing about a 2000lb load in a couple months (i.e. I need to get on the fix right away).



I'm thinking of buying the ART-221-S and ART-222-S to repair the frame sections and body mounts on both the left and right sides. From what I can tell, this looks like it would produce an acceptable fix. I don't seem to have much noticeable frame rust forward of the spare tire cross member, but the inner section of the left frame from the spare tire cross member to the frame rear end is almost totally gone from rust.



Just thinking out loud and sharing. Anyone else fighting rust in this same area and successfully repair theirs? Does this seem like a good plan? I've done a little welding in the past, but a good friend of mine (I'm lobbying to help) is a very experienced welder and has good MIG welding equipment.

My build thread is full of rust repair options..

You probably can still buy that body mount oem off toyota as well. My perfered method is to clean the frame completely out and weld the replacement plates on the inside of the frame. As they rot from the inside out. :(


Lots of folks like the rust repair kits as well. :)

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Garandman 11-01-2021 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thegipper (Post 3360972)
This is pretty cool. I looked at the prices and honestly, they seem very reasonable to me.

If you are paying for labor (I would be) seems like a bargain!

brillo_76 11-01-2021 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bad Luck (Post 3638238)
Maybe bend it back, weld it, then weld these on there for reinforcement: Upper Link Mount Reinforcement – eimkeith.com

I would replace the bushings etc when you weld this back together. As if your bushings are bad the alignment will be off when you weld it back together. :-(

brillo_76 11-01-2021 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leebo (Post 3673772)
Glad I found this thread! My 99 4Runner has rust-cancer on the rear portion of the frame rails. The left side area where the hitch mounts to the frame is very bad, as well as where the left frame mounts to the rear body mount. The right side isn't quite as bad, but it's not far behind. The rust on the left side is bad enough now that the body has separated from the frame/cab mount. Shaking the hitch causes a "clunk" where the rusted remanence of the cab mount hits the body. There is absolutely no way I'd tow anything without fixing this first, and I know I'll be towing about a 2000lb load in a couple months (i.e. I need to get on the fix right away).

I'm thinking of buying the ART-221-S and ART-222-S to repair the frame sections and body mounts on both the left and right sides. From what I can tell, this looks like it would produce an acceptable fix. I don't seem to have much noticeable frame rust forward of the spare tire cross member, but the inner section of the left frame from the spare tire cross member to the frame rear end is almost totally gone from rust.

Just thinking out loud and sharing. Anyone else fighting rust in this same area and successfully repair theirs? Does this seem like a good plan? I've done a little welding in the past, but a good friend of mine (I'm lobbying to help) is a very experienced welder and has good MIG welding equipment.


Yes take a look at my build thread as most of my information are frame fixes..

You need to descale all of that rebuild the frame section itself. Then put a new or used body mount bracket welded in the old ones place.

A 2nd option would be to find another section of the frame at a junk yard etc that's good slice it off. Then cut your bad section off putting plates on the inside frame rails then weld it all back together.. :-)

STLclone 11-14-2022 01:08 PM

Frame Rust
 
1 Attachment(s)
I've got a pretty big hole and a smaller hole next to it on my 2001 4Runner with 240k miles. Worth repairing? Or even safe to drive right now?

Leebo 11-14-2022 02:19 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by STLclone (Post 3769984)
I've got a pretty big hole and a smaller hole next to it on my 2001 4Runner with 240k miles. Worth repairing? Or even safe to drive right now?

Safe to drive? I'd say it depends on overall how bad the rust is and where. I never did follow up with my rust issue posting but I did get the ends of the frames fixed with the Safe T Cap items. After that, I then found more rust... this time on the driver side on the frame where the track bar attaches. It ended up breaking free right just when I received more parts from Safe T Cap to do more frame work. This job was even more of a pain; had to drop the gas tank and while doing the welding work, one of the hard brake lines accidentally got burned through with some welding spatter. Had to recreate a hard line and patch it in. The passenger side spot needs repair too; not too far behind but not as bad as the driver side connection to the track bar. But as for the safe to drive question, if it was like the rusty area around the track bar, definitely not safe. As for the further bak area supporting the hitch (not used) and rear body mounts, probably much less of a safety issue.

Here are some pics of mine. Not the prettiest weld job but it got the job done. Painted after these pics.

brillo_76 11-14-2022 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leebo (Post 3770002)
Safe to drive? I'd say it depends on overall how bad the rust is and where. I never did follow up with my rust issue posting but I did get the ends of the frames fixed with the Safe T Cap items. After that, I then found more rust... this time on the driver side on the frame where the track bar attaches. It ended up breaking free right just when I received more parts from Safe T Cap to do more frame work. This job was even more of a pain; had to drop the gas tank and while doing the welding work, one of the hard brake lines accidentally got burned through with some welding spatter. Had to recreate a hard line and patch it in. The passenger side spot needs repair too; not too far behind but not as bad as the driver side connection to the track bar. But as for the safe to drive question, if it was like the rusty area around the track bar, definitely not safe. As for the further bak area supporting the hitch (not used) and rear body mounts, probably much less of a safety issue.

Here are some pics of mine. Not the prettiest weld job but it got the job done. Painted after these pics.

Good deal. I am curious how those caps hold up. My method of repair is completely different then using the safety caps.. :-)


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