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Old 10-01-2019, 10:21 PM #16
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Originally Posted by suncoug View Post
Many thanks for your advice on this. I have actually bought an another vehicle, so I don't feel the time pressure. Still, I do want to get it back on the road before the winter.



So, for now, I plan on installing the LCA/Frame kits from Autorust. Slipping in the heavy duty pipe inside the crossmember and welding the mounts on. I will also figure out outboarding the shocks. I already bought a set is made for Ford trucks that helps with this. I will need a longer pair of shocks and spacer, but I really don't want to tackle replacing the shock/coil plates now, though I have the parts.



BTW, are you sure the length of the pipe needs to be 43". I bought a 48" pipe and it appeared to be the perfect length.
I will verify when I get home. I have 43" in my notes on my phone. As I have 2 3 gens in my garage. I can easily verify this. :]

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Old 10-01-2019, 11:36 PM #17
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Yes I am 100% sure my pipes are 43 inches. Unless your pipe is sticking out 1.5 inches past mine on both sides. I honestly don't know what to say.

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Old 10-02-2019, 01:27 PM #18
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Thanks for your looking into this and the picture. It appears that my note was off.
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Old 10-03-2019, 06:27 PM #19
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Originally Posted by suncoug View Post
Thanks for your looking into this and the picture. It appears that my note was off.
No problem. Glad I could help a fellow 3rd gen owner out.

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Old 05-16-2021, 10:27 PM #20
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Upper Rear Control Arm

Anyone got any advice for fixing this? This is the rear control arm bracket connection with the axle. Haven't found many other people online with this issue.
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Old 05-17-2021, 02:21 PM #21
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Anyone got any advice for fixing this? This is the rear control arm bracket connection with the axle. Haven't found many other people online with this issue.
Maybe bend it back, weld it, then weld these on there for reinforcement: Upper Link Mount Reinforcement – eimkeith.com
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Old 05-18-2021, 12:18 PM #22
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Maybe bend it back, weld it, then weld these on there for reinforcement: Upper Link Mount Reinforcement – eimkeith.com
Thanks this is exactly what I was looking for!
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Old 09-18-2021, 04:42 PM #23
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Glad I found this thread! My 99 4Runner has rust-cancer on the rear portion of the frame rails. The left side area where the hitch mounts to the frame is very bad, as well as where the left frame mounts to the rear body mount. The right side isn't quite as bad, but it's not far behind. The rust on the left side is bad enough now that the body has separated from the frame/cab mount. Shaking the hitch causes a "clunk" where the rusted remanence of the cab mount hits the body. There is absolutely no way I'd tow anything without fixing this first, and I know I'll be towing about a 2000lb load in a couple months (i.e. I need to get on the fix right away).

I'm thinking of buying the ART-221-S and ART-222-S to repair the frame sections and body mounts on both the left and right sides. From what I can tell, this looks like it would produce an acceptable fix. I don't seem to have much noticeable frame rust forward of the spare tire cross member, but the inner section of the left frame from the spare tire cross member to the frame rear end is almost totally gone from rust.

Just thinking out loud and sharing. Anyone else fighting rust in this same area and successfully repair theirs? Does this seem like a good plan? I've done a little welding in the past, but a good friend of mine (I'm lobbying to help) is a very experienced welder and has good MIG welding equipment.
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3rd gen 4Runner Frame Rust Repair Kit-img_4102c-jpg  3rd gen 4Runner Frame Rust Repair Kit-img_4106c-jpg 
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Old 09-18-2021, 08:36 PM #24
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Quote:
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Glad I found this thread! My 99 4Runner has rust-cancer on the rear portion of the frame rails. The left side area where the hitch mounts to the frame is very bad, as well as where the left frame mounts to the rear body mount. The right side isn't quite as bad, but it's not far behind. The rust on the left side is bad enough now that the body has separated from the frame/cab mount. Shaking the hitch causes a "clunk" where the rusted remanence of the cab mount hits the body. There is absolutely no way I'd tow anything without fixing this first, and I know I'll be towing about a 2000lb load in a couple months (i.e. I need to get on the fix right away).



I'm thinking of buying the ART-221-S and ART-222-S to repair the frame sections and body mounts on both the left and right sides. From what I can tell, this looks like it would produce an acceptable fix. I don't seem to have much noticeable frame rust forward of the spare tire cross member, but the inner section of the left frame from the spare tire cross member to the frame rear end is almost totally gone from rust.



Just thinking out loud and sharing. Anyone else fighting rust in this same area and successfully repair theirs? Does this seem like a good plan? I've done a little welding in the past, but a good friend of mine (I'm lobbying to help) is a very experienced welder and has good MIG welding equipment.
My build thread is full of rust repair options..

You probably can still buy that body mount oem off toyota as well. My perfered method is to clean the frame completely out and weld the replacement plates on the inside of the frame. As they rot from the inside out.


Lots of folks like the rust repair kits as well.

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Old 11-01-2021, 12:23 PM #25
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Quote:
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This is pretty cool. I looked at the prices and honestly, they seem very reasonable to me.
If you are paying for labor (I would be) seems like a bargain!
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Old 11-01-2021, 02:37 PM #26
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Quote:
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Maybe bend it back, weld it, then weld these on there for reinforcement: Upper Link Mount Reinforcement – eimkeith.com
I would replace the bushings etc when you weld this back together. As if your bushings are bad the alignment will be off when you weld it back together. :-(
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
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Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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Old 11-01-2021, 02:40 PM #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leebo View Post
Glad I found this thread! My 99 4Runner has rust-cancer on the rear portion of the frame rails. The left side area where the hitch mounts to the frame is very bad, as well as where the left frame mounts to the rear body mount. The right side isn't quite as bad, but it's not far behind. The rust on the left side is bad enough now that the body has separated from the frame/cab mount. Shaking the hitch causes a "clunk" where the rusted remanence of the cab mount hits the body. There is absolutely no way I'd tow anything without fixing this first, and I know I'll be towing about a 2000lb load in a couple months (i.e. I need to get on the fix right away).

I'm thinking of buying the ART-221-S and ART-222-S to repair the frame sections and body mounts on both the left and right sides. From what I can tell, this looks like it would produce an acceptable fix. I don't seem to have much noticeable frame rust forward of the spare tire cross member, but the inner section of the left frame from the spare tire cross member to the frame rear end is almost totally gone from rust.

Just thinking out loud and sharing. Anyone else fighting rust in this same area and successfully repair theirs? Does this seem like a good plan? I've done a little welding in the past, but a good friend of mine (I'm lobbying to help) is a very experienced welder and has good MIG welding equipment.

Yes take a look at my build thread as most of my information are frame fixes..

You need to descale all of that rebuild the frame section itself. Then put a new or used body mount bracket welded in the old ones place.

A 2nd option would be to find another section of the frame at a junk yard etc that's good slice it off. Then cut your bad section off putting plates on the inside frame rails then weld it all back together.. :-)
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Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html

Last edited by brillo_76; 11-01-2021 at 02:58 PM. Reason: add more information
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Old 11-14-2022, 01:08 PM #28
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Frame Rust

I've got a pretty big hole and a smaller hole next to it on my 2001 4Runner with 240k miles. Worth repairing? Or even safe to drive right now?
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Old 11-14-2022, 02:19 PM #29
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I've got a pretty big hole and a smaller hole next to it on my 2001 4Runner with 240k miles. Worth repairing? Or even safe to drive right now?
Safe to drive? I'd say it depends on overall how bad the rust is and where. I never did follow up with my rust issue posting but I did get the ends of the frames fixed with the Safe T Cap items. After that, I then found more rust... this time on the driver side on the frame where the track bar attaches. It ended up breaking free right just when I received more parts from Safe T Cap to do more frame work. This job was even more of a pain; had to drop the gas tank and while doing the welding work, one of the hard brake lines accidentally got burned through with some welding spatter. Had to recreate a hard line and patch it in. The passenger side spot needs repair too; not too far behind but not as bad as the driver side connection to the track bar. But as for the safe to drive question, if it was like the rusty area around the track bar, definitely not safe. As for the further bak area supporting the hitch (not used) and rear body mounts, probably much less of a safety issue.

Here are some pics of mine. Not the prettiest weld job but it got the job done. Painted after these pics.
Attached Images
3rd gen 4Runner Frame Rust Repair Kit-img_4462-jpeg  3rd gen 4Runner Frame Rust Repair Kit-img_4463-jpeg  3rd gen 4Runner Frame Rust Repair Kit-img_4464-jpeg  3rd gen 4Runner Frame Rust Repair Kit-img_4465-jpeg 
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Old 11-14-2022, 03:32 PM #30
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Safe to drive? I'd say it depends on overall how bad the rust is and where. I never did follow up with my rust issue posting but I did get the ends of the frames fixed with the Safe T Cap items. After that, I then found more rust... this time on the driver side on the frame where the track bar attaches. It ended up breaking free right just when I received more parts from Safe T Cap to do more frame work. This job was even more of a pain; had to drop the gas tank and while doing the welding work, one of the hard brake lines accidentally got burned through with some welding spatter. Had to recreate a hard line and patch it in. The passenger side spot needs repair too; not too far behind but not as bad as the driver side connection to the track bar. But as for the safe to drive question, if it was like the rusty area around the track bar, definitely not safe. As for the further bak area supporting the hitch (not used) and rear body mounts, probably much less of a safety issue.

Here are some pics of mine. Not the prettiest weld job but it got the job done. Painted after these pics.
Good deal. I am curious how those caps hold up. My method of repair is completely different then using the safety caps.. :-)
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Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html

Last edited by brillo_76; 11-14-2022 at 04:24 PM.
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