10-01-2019, 10:21 PM
|
#16
|
|
Elite Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 6,035
Real Name: Jon
|
|
Elite Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 6,035
Real Name: Jon
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by suncoug
Many thanks for your advice on this. I have actually bought an another vehicle, so I don't feel the time pressure. Still, I do want to get it back on the road before the winter.
So, for now, I plan on installing the LCA/Frame kits from Autorust. Slipping in the heavy duty pipe inside the crossmember and welding the mounts on. I will also figure out outboarding the shocks. I already bought a set is made for Ford trucks that helps with this. I will need a longer pair of shocks and spacer, but I really don't want to tackle replacing the shock/coil plates now, though I have the parts.
BTW, are you sure the length of the pipe needs to be 43". I bought a 48" pipe and it appeared to be the perfect length.
|
I will verify when I get home. I have 43" in my notes on my phone. As I have 2 3 gens in my garage. I can easily verify this. :]
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
__________________
7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
10-02-2019, 01:27 PM
|
#18
|
Junior Member
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: USA
Posts: 24
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: USA
Posts: 24
|
Thanks for your looking into this and the picture. It appears that my note was off.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
05-16-2021, 10:27 PM
|
#20
|
Junior Member
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Rossland, BC
Posts: 2
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Rossland, BC
Posts: 2
|
Upper Rear Control Arm
Anyone got any advice for fixing this? This is the rear control arm bracket connection with the axle. Haven't found many other people online with this issue.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
05-17-2021, 02:21 PM
|
#21
|
Senior Member
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
Posts: 4,410
Real Name: Patrick
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Hot Springs, AR
Posts: 4,410
Real Name: Patrick
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by hamsme
Anyone got any advice for fixing this? This is the rear control arm bracket connection with the axle. Haven't found many other people online with this issue.
|
Maybe bend it back, weld it, then weld these on there for reinforcement: Upper Link Mount Reinforcement – eimkeith.com
__________________
2000 SR5 V6 Manual 4WD https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...biography.html
2000 Limited V6 Auto E-Locker Sold 3/2022
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
05-18-2021, 12:18 PM
|
#22
|
Junior Member
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Rossland, BC
Posts: 2
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Rossland, BC
Posts: 2
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Luck
|
Thanks this is exactly what I was looking for!
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
09-18-2021, 04:42 PM
|
#23
|
|
Junior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 22
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 22
|
Glad I found this thread! My 99 4Runner has rust-cancer on the rear portion of the frame rails. The left side area where the hitch mounts to the frame is very bad, as well as where the left frame mounts to the rear body mount. The right side isn't quite as bad, but it's not far behind. The rust on the left side is bad enough now that the body has separated from the frame/cab mount. Shaking the hitch causes a "clunk" where the rusted remanence of the cab mount hits the body. There is absolutely no way I'd tow anything without fixing this first, and I know I'll be towing about a 2000lb load in a couple months (i.e. I need to get on the fix right away).
I'm thinking of buying the ART-221-S and ART-222-S to repair the frame sections and body mounts on both the left and right sides. From what I can tell, this looks like it would produce an acceptable fix. I don't seem to have much noticeable frame rust forward of the spare tire cross member, but the inner section of the left frame from the spare tire cross member to the frame rear end is almost totally gone from rust.
Just thinking out loud and sharing. Anyone else fighting rust in this same area and successfully repair theirs? Does this seem like a good plan? I've done a little welding in the past, but a good friend of mine (I'm lobbying to help) is a very experienced welder and has good MIG welding equipment.
__________________
'99 4Runner -mostly stock; '02 WRX -mostly stock; '91 Miata -331cid V8
http://topdownmx5.com/images/4Runner/IMG_0132.JPG
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
09-18-2021, 08:36 PM
|
#24
|
|
Elite Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 6,035
Real Name: Jon
|
|
Elite Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 6,035
Real Name: Jon
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leebo
Glad I found this thread! My 99 4Runner has rust-cancer on the rear portion of the frame rails. The left side area where the hitch mounts to the frame is very bad, as well as where the left frame mounts to the rear body mount. The right side isn't quite as bad, but it's not far behind. The rust on the left side is bad enough now that the body has separated from the frame/cab mount. Shaking the hitch causes a "clunk" where the rusted remanence of the cab mount hits the body. There is absolutely no way I'd tow anything without fixing this first, and I know I'll be towing about a 2000lb load in a couple months (i.e. I need to get on the fix right away).
I'm thinking of buying the ART-221-S and ART-222-S to repair the frame sections and body mounts on both the left and right sides. From what I can tell, this looks like it would produce an acceptable fix. I don't seem to have much noticeable frame rust forward of the spare tire cross member, but the inner section of the left frame from the spare tire cross member to the frame rear end is almost totally gone from rust.
Just thinking out loud and sharing. Anyone else fighting rust in this same area and successfully repair theirs? Does this seem like a good plan? I've done a little welding in the past, but a good friend of mine (I'm lobbying to help) is a very experienced welder and has good MIG welding equipment.
|
My build thread is full of rust repair options..
You probably can still buy that body mount oem off toyota as well. My perfered method is to clean the frame completely out and weld the replacement plates on the inside of the frame. As they rot from the inside out.
Lots of folks like the rust repair kits as well.
Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
__________________
7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
11-01-2021, 12:23 PM
|
#25
|
Junior Member
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Boston / Sullivan County NH
Posts: 28
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Boston / Sullivan County NH
Posts: 28
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by thegipper
This is pretty cool. I looked at the prices and honestly, they seem very reasonable to me.
|
If you are paying for labor (I would be) seems like a bargain!
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
11-01-2021, 02:40 PM
|
#27
|
|
Elite Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 6,035
Real Name: Jon
|
|
Elite Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 6,035
Real Name: Jon
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leebo
Glad I found this thread! My 99 4Runner has rust-cancer on the rear portion of the frame rails. The left side area where the hitch mounts to the frame is very bad, as well as where the left frame mounts to the rear body mount. The right side isn't quite as bad, but it's not far behind. The rust on the left side is bad enough now that the body has separated from the frame/cab mount. Shaking the hitch causes a "clunk" where the rusted remanence of the cab mount hits the body. There is absolutely no way I'd tow anything without fixing this first, and I know I'll be towing about a 2000lb load in a couple months (i.e. I need to get on the fix right away).
I'm thinking of buying the ART-221-S and ART-222-S to repair the frame sections and body mounts on both the left and right sides. From what I can tell, this looks like it would produce an acceptable fix. I don't seem to have much noticeable frame rust forward of the spare tire cross member, but the inner section of the left frame from the spare tire cross member to the frame rear end is almost totally gone from rust.
Just thinking out loud and sharing. Anyone else fighting rust in this same area and successfully repair theirs? Does this seem like a good plan? I've done a little welding in the past, but a good friend of mine (I'm lobbying to help) is a very experienced welder and has good MIG welding equipment.
|
Yes take a look at my build thread as most of my information are frame fixes..
You need to descale all of that rebuild the frame section itself. Then put a new or used body mount bracket welded in the old ones place.
A 2nd option would be to find another section of the frame at a junk yard etc that's good slice it off. Then cut your bad section off putting plates on the inside frame rails then weld it all back together.. :-)
__________________
7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
Last edited by brillo_76; 11-01-2021 at 02:58 PM.
Reason: add more information
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
11-14-2022, 01:08 PM
|
#28
|
Junior Member
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 1
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 1
|
Frame Rust
I've got a pretty big hole and a smaller hole next to it on my 2001 4Runner with 240k miles. Worth repairing? Or even safe to drive right now?
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
11-14-2022, 02:19 PM
|
#29
|
|
Junior Member
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 22
|
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 22
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by STLclone
I've got a pretty big hole and a smaller hole next to it on my 2001 4Runner with 240k miles. Worth repairing? Or even safe to drive right now?
|
Safe to drive? I'd say it depends on overall how bad the rust is and where. I never did follow up with my rust issue posting but I did get the ends of the frames fixed with the Safe T Cap items. After that, I then found more rust... this time on the driver side on the frame where the track bar attaches. It ended up breaking free right just when I received more parts from Safe T Cap to do more frame work. This job was even more of a pain; had to drop the gas tank and while doing the welding work, one of the hard brake lines accidentally got burned through with some welding spatter. Had to recreate a hard line and patch it in. The passenger side spot needs repair too; not too far behind but not as bad as the driver side connection to the track bar. But as for the safe to drive question, if it was like the rusty area around the track bar, definitely not safe. As for the further bak area supporting the hitch (not used) and rear body mounts, probably much less of a safety issue.
Here are some pics of mine. Not the prettiest weld job but it got the job done. Painted after these pics.
__________________
'99 4Runner -mostly stock; '02 WRX -mostly stock; '91 Miata -331cid V8
http://topdownmx5.com/images/4Runner/IMG_0132.JPG
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
11-14-2022, 03:32 PM
|
#30
|
|
Elite Member
|
|
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 6,035
Real Name: Jon
|
|
Elite Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 6,035
Real Name: Jon
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leebo
Safe to drive? I'd say it depends on overall how bad the rust is and where. I never did follow up with my rust issue posting but I did get the ends of the frames fixed with the Safe T Cap items. After that, I then found more rust... this time on the driver side on the frame where the track bar attaches. It ended up breaking free right just when I received more parts from Safe T Cap to do more frame work. This job was even more of a pain; had to drop the gas tank and while doing the welding work, one of the hard brake lines accidentally got burned through with some welding spatter. Had to recreate a hard line and patch it in. The passenger side spot needs repair too; not too far behind but not as bad as the driver side connection to the track bar. But as for the safe to drive question, if it was like the rusty area around the track bar, definitely not safe. As for the further bak area supporting the hitch (not used) and rear body mounts, probably much less of a safety issue.
Here are some pics of mine. Not the prettiest weld job but it got the job done. Painted after these pics.
|
Good deal. I am curious how those caps hold up. My method of repair is completely different then using the safety caps.. :-)
__________________
7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
Last edited by brillo_76; 11-14-2022 at 04:24 PM.
|
|
Reply With Quote
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On
|
|
|
|