[MacLaddy]

I'm wondering if anybody knows the allowable weight limits that the rear hatch can handle with the window rolled down? I need to haul about 20 12' sticks of baseboard that'll be sticking out the rear-end. I want to make sure I'm not going to warp the hinge mechanism or--even worse--leave the rear hatch sliding down the road behind me.

Thanks,
Mac

[Doc2012]

I would imagine you’d be fine.

It’s a spot welded joint; to pieces together, on each side of the glass. So, in essence, 4 pieces of metal.

I would snug the lumber down with a ratchet strap from the inside, just to make sure none of it bounces if you hit a large bump.

I’m going to edit this to add, that is my 220lb fat ass can bounce on my ladder that’s hanging on the hatch, you should be fine with some lumber.


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[pluton]

You could obviate the need to worry and carry the 12' stuff on the floor and the [padded] console. This would necessitate the need to drive with the rear gate strapped down and open at the bottom. I've done it. It's OK for short trips. The lumber may stick out enough to require a red flag on the end.

[Mackalicious]

I'd just hang a thick blanket to pad from scraping the back

[96RedRunner]

I've done it like mentioned above. You could rest one end on dash towels in place, hatch window down hatch closed. Run a rope around trim and tie to roof rack cross bar to support weight.

[Twisted Sid]

You could build a 2x4 shelf that sits just inside and proud of the rear hatch so it holds the weight. You can also build in tie down points too. I've done it to haul steel tubing back to my house before

[Sparky 97Runner]

I'd be less worried about the rear hatch and more worried about it sticking that far out the back. If those baseboards get hit by something they could twist and take your head off. Have you considered using the roof rack and tie off to the front and back bumpers?

[Riceye]

Secure an extension ladder to the roof rack and secure the boards to the extension ladder.

[MacLaddy]

Thanks everyone. A lot of good suggestions here, but I think I'll go with Twisted Sid's suggestion and build a rear support system to take the weight off of the hatch. I've thought about using the roof rack, but the type of baseboards I'm buying are cheap MDF and don't have the rigidity to handle the overhang. Besides, I don't really know the limits of my roof rack either...

I'm actually not that worried about the weight, as I've hauled heavier (but shorter) items on the rear window seal, but I've been curious about the actual weight limits for a while. I wanted to see if anyone was aware of it, or ever had a failure.

[phattyduck]

When I've done baseboard (16' sticks, normally), I run them from the passenger footwell and up/out the back. Lean the front seatback all the way back so you have a clear shot from the rear window down to the floor. No risking the windshield in a panic stop! You can roll the window up to even support the weight on the front seat bottom, rear seat top and rear window.

You will want to strap them all together tightly to reduce the bounce of the flimsy MDF.

-Charlie