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Old 10-31-2019, 10:39 AM #16
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Originally Posted by ccurrans View Post
Sorry for the delay in responding, lots of people leaving at work, so we are a little thin.

Not seeing any white smoke on start up. What it turned out to be was little to no antifreeze. Bought this from a guy who said it just had the head gaskets replaced. Not sure I buy that now.

No puddling anywhere of any kind. I refilled the radiator and havent overheated since. Still no puddles.

She has 250k on her and dont know if the timing belt has ever been changed so figured why not and do the water pump, thermostat, etc... still havent done this yet, mind you.

Figured I would throw more wet spaghetti at you guys and see what you think. Thanks again for the input.

To check the belt. Look for micro-cracks. If they are close to 20 years old you can tell by looking at the belt. You can just pop the top plastic cover off to look at the belt. Mind you will also have to pull the top radiator hose as well to take that plastic cover off. My 97 5 speed had not only the original timing belt but the original belts too. When I brought it home.

Glad to hear it was something simple like no antifreeze and thanks for letting us know. :-)
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Old 10-31-2019, 12:08 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccurrans View Post
Sorry for the delay in responding, lots of people leaving at work, so we are a little thin.

Not seeing any white smoke on start up. What it turned out to be was little to no antifreeze. Bought this from a guy who said it just had the head gaskets replaced. Not sure I buy that now.

No puddling anywhere of any kind. I refilled the radiator and havent overheated since. Still no puddles.

She has 250k on her and dont know if the timing belt has ever been changed so figured why not and do the water pump, thermostat, etc... still havent done this yet, mind you.

Figured I would throw more wet spaghetti at you guys and see what you think. Thanks again for the input.
I'd do a compression and leak down test of the cylinders before doing the timing belt/water pump. That should be able to tell you if you need to replace the head gaskets which would require removing the timing belt to do.
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Old 11-03-2019, 12:31 PM #18
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Well, took her out for a drive today. About 2-3 miles in, had to stop at UPS. Came out of the store and noticed something dripping on the passenger side... antifreeze. A good amount too for as little as I drove. Maybe 6 ounces? Anyway. Drove straight back home and took a look underneath and saw where it was dripping off the frame rail where the cross member is. Looked along the frame rail on the passenger side and see where there are 2 lines pretty rusty. Any clue on what these are? Also, the antifreeze was not a gravity drip from the top of these 2 lines from the engine bay area, but more where it runs along with the frame rail horizontally which coincides with where the rust is on these lines. They dont appear to be rusted through, but could be wrong. In short... HALP!!!! Lol. Thanks again guys.
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Old 11-03-2019, 01:01 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccurrans View Post
'99 SR5 here... 245k on the clock. Swapped out the auto trans solenoids the other week and now the truck is overheating. I find it strange that right after I swap these it starts to overheat when it never has before. The plan, since it is new to me, is that I'm going to end up swapping the thermostat, water pump, timing belt, serpentine belts, radiator and both hoses. I think the clutch fan is fine, but while I'm doing this, I'm debating on a separate trans cooler too and maybe an electric fan. Any ideas on what is causing the overheating or the work I'm about to do in a week? Thanks in advance.
If you kept the old solenoids might want to put them back in. Were they OEM?
Was tranny giving you issues?
Did you change all the fluid? 5 quarts?
Is the level right?

Put it on a Code reader and see what you find?
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Old 11-03-2019, 01:06 PM #20
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Originally Posted by gamefreakgc View Post
Don't go e-fan unless you have a reason to, this is coming from an e-fan user. It makes the system more complicated. Mechanical fan will always work, even if the clutch seizes it will still work great just always be on lol.

Were you planning on doing the timing belt anyway or are you doing the timing belt because you figured on changing the water pump, which you figured on changing because of the overheating issue? If you are, start with just the radiator and hoses and see if that's all it was. Changing out a radiator is waaaay easier than an entire timing belt change.
Well, fan clutches don't just fail one way. They can like you said stay locked up and lower your fuel efficiency but they can also fail to lock up when your engine reaches the magic temperature. The fan looks like it's spinning effectively but it really isn't. When the fan clutch fully locks up, it should be turning at the same rpms as the engine. When it's not locked or not fully locked, it's turning slower than the engine.

A bad fan clutch failing to lock up like it's suppose to has quite often been the culprit of why an engine overheats especially when the vehicle is stopped or not moving fast. When the vehicle is moving at a decent speed, air is being forced through the cooling fins of the radiator and the effectiveness of this cooling is directly related to the ambient air temperature. Basically, your engine is going to run hotter in 100 degree temps as compared to 70 degree temps. When you come to a stop, you no longer have air being forced through the cooling fins of the radiator. The only thing helping with the cooling at a stop or at a crawling speed is the fan clutch pulling air through the cooling fins. If the fan clutch isn't locking up like it's suppose to, the engine will overheat.

Here's a couple videos that explain very well how a fan clutch works:
YouTube
YouTube
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Old 11-04-2019, 04:21 PM #21
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Any clue on what these are?
Those are the coolant lines to the rear heater under the passenger front seat. You can cap or loop the lines up at the top of the engine bay for now. Later you can decide whether to repair/replace those lines to get you rear heater working again. Later gen3 4Runners had stainless lines in place of the painted steel lines.

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Old 11-09-2019, 01:25 PM #22
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Should the fan "free spin" when the engine is cold and off? Mine seems like it may be locked up, but does turn. it just trurns with with a bit of resistance
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Old 11-09-2019, 02:17 PM #23
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Should the fan "free spin" when the engine is cold and off? Mine seems like it may be locked up, but does turn. it just trurns with with a bit of resistance
When it's cold, the fan clutch should spin fairly easily.
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