10-30-2019, 11:04 AM
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#16
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Hunts the yards for an OEM one. Usually are priced between $10 and $30. I would like to think that the missing gasket is your problem but this Toyota has a real hard time using most anything but OEM parts.
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10-30-2019, 11:37 AM
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#17
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Western PA
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Real Name: Jon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STI_MECE
It's back lol
So the oil gap gasket didn't solve the issue. Which now I think about it doesn't surprise me.
There is an aftermarket brake booster on my car. And because of the stupidity of PO. I know there is supposed to be a gasket between master cylinder and the brake booster interface.
So I backed off the master cylinder and sure enough.....no damn gasket. I looked real close and carefully tried to pick at the surface to make sure I wasn't missing the gasket but it's not there.
Maybe that is the issue? I'm gunna beg my dealership for another employee discount lol hopefully it no more than 5 bucks.
But maybe that might be because at high speeds sometimes my brakes are alittle soft. And when at low speeds 30 and below the brake pedal progression is normal.
If this doesn't solve the issue I'm going to buy the OEM check valve, hose, clamps and grommet and pray that stuff will fit in the aftermarket booster.
The price of the OEM booster is obscene.
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Unreal.. Eventually, you will have everything fixed. Since the oil gasket is missing. You may find a few more interesting gaskets missing. :-(
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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11-01-2019, 06:03 AM
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#18
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I'm at wits end I tried a gasket from O'Rileys just for shiggles. That's not it
I'm going to jack the rear end up next week and drive the car with the wheels spinning in the air.
That should do the trick to let me stick my head under the hood and see what is happening while the vehicle is at speed.
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11-01-2019, 02:32 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: TX
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Real Name: Daniel
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FWIW, as long as it's meant for the 4Runner, an aftermarket brake booster won't matter. Obviously has to be in good working order, etc.
A guy who posted a few months ago had good luck with a $50 eBay special. I'm running a $300 Advanced Auto Remanned, no problem.
And with a lifetime warranty, better $300 than like $800 for an OEM.
If it does have an aftermarket intake manifold, and the guy was notorious for not using gaskets, I might check there. You could have a hell of a vacuum leak under the manifold.
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11-04-2019, 11:52 PM
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#20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AntleredRuin
FWIW, as long as it's meant for the 4Runner, an aftermarket brake booster won't matter. Obviously has to be in good working order, etc.
A guy who posted a few months ago had good luck with a $50 eBay special. I'm running a $300 Advanced Auto Remanned, no problem.
And with a lifetime warranty, better $300 than like $800 for an OEM.
If it does have an aftermarket intake manifold, and the guy was notorious for not using gaskets, I might check there. You could have a hell of a vacuum leak under the manifold.
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Yeah you raise a good point.
My booster DOES work and no obvious leaks. I just cling to it since it's the only thing I can do without ripping into the intake manifold. Lol
I am missing that bracket that pressed against the check valve. I'm gunna try and scope tht up at the junk yard.
I do have an oil leak I think it's coming from the half Moon on the driver side. But I could never see if anyone had a leak bad enough to have an audible leak coming out of there.
I'm trying to hold off on the valve covers for weeee bit. Starting my timing belt job tomorrow, I got a laundry list of stuff to do. Gunna take me at least a week to get it done.
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11-05-2019, 10:31 AM
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#21
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Real Name: Daniel
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Join Date: Aug 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STI_MECE
Yeah you raise a good point.
My booster DOES work and no obvious leaks. I just cling to it since it's the only thing I can do without ripping into the intake manifold. Lol
I am missing that bracket that pressed against the check valve. I'm gunna try and scope tht up at the junk yard.
I do have an oil leak I think it's coming from the half Moon on the driver side. But I could never see if anyone had a leak bad enough to have an audible leak coming out of there.
I'm trying to hold off on the valve covers for weeee bit. Starting my timing belt job tomorrow, I got a laundry list of stuff to do. Gunna take me at least a week to get it done.
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Yeah if you have a valve cover gasket leak so bad you can hear vacuum while in the car, and freeway driving no less, then I'd think you'd have bigger problems than that.
That being said, curious as to why replacing the oil fill gasket mostly fixed the noise for a short period of time. I wonder if the valve covers (and maybe the intake manifold) really are that loose, and the pressure you exerted while pressing the new fill gasket on slightly sealed the valve cover down a bit more into the current gasket? Then after a few miles it lifted again?
For shits and giggles, try just getting in there and tightening all valve cover and intake manifold bolts you can find. Be careful, though, the valve covers wings are weak. Those bolts need to be barely more than finger tight.
Have you replaced the PCV?
The intake is a bit of a PITA, but much less work than it seems. Or well, easier than it looks at least. Just a lot of little steps. Just don't break an injector off in it while taking it off. I had to use some super long forceps to get the tip out of the valves. That was a pucker moment
Last edited by AntleredRuin; 11-05-2019 at 10:58 AM.
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11-05-2019, 11:10 PM
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#22
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For shiggles, I ordered the valve cover gasket parts lol all parts including half moon plugs 178 from my local dealership. Parts arrive tomorrow.
Took the plenum off in about ten minutes lol started cleaning it up getting grease off .
One interesting note. The runners have pitting?
These valve covers definitely were repaired at some point. I see white sealant and a blue gasket def not OEM.
I think there was a leak on driver side half moon
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11-05-2019, 11:18 PM
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#23
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12-15-2019, 11:03 AM
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#24
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So the oil cap gasket was not the issue. Nor is it related to the brake booster. I just put another 5VZ-FE engine in, used OEM brake booster, and a new OEM master cylinder and I still have the noise.
Which tells me it might be coming from the Evap canister or one of the sensors that runs in line with it.
I had a stethoscope and found at idle there is one that makes a ticking noise at idle. It sounds like some type of regulator with a ball inside or or something. It has two hose connections, one from the eval canister at the bottom of it, and the top hose runs along the firewall and into the intake manifold
The fun never ends
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12-15-2019, 12:29 PM
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#25
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Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: SW Washington
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In all this work have you replaced the fan clutch?
Usually when my Toyota’s have had the odd whistle when letting off the throttle it’s bean the fan clutch.
That intake plenum isn’t pitted, it’s a cast part. They all look like that.
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Owned 82, 83, 87 pickup, 98, 99 SR5 4runner
Currently own a 98 SR5, 5spd, 4x4, e-locker, no sunroof. 2012 LTD with the normal options.
Last edited by Dieselchessy; 12-15-2019 at 12:33 PM.
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12-15-2019, 01:22 PM
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#26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselchessy
In all this work have you replaced the fan clutch?
Usually when my Toyota’s have had the odd whistle when letting off the throttle it’s bean the fan clutch.
That intake plenum isn’t pitted, it’s a cast part. They all look like that.
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No I have not. I ended up just buying a new OEM canister. Can you have a bad fan clutch and still have cooling temps within spec?
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12-15-2019, 01:50 PM
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#27
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I don’t know what spec is for temp. My 3rd gens have all run with the temp needle just below level. I’ve replaced a few fan clutches but never due to a temp indication, just cause they made noise or were looser than I liked.
I’m just guessing. Your title says “ vacuum lleak”, but you don’t offer your reasoning for thinking it’s a vacuum leak.
I suspect your real issue is “a whirring or whistle type sound at deceleration”.
That’s a whole lot different than a “vacuum leak”.
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Owned 82, 83, 87 pickup, 98, 99 SR5 4runner
Currently own a 98 SR5, 5spd, 4x4, e-locker, no sunroof. 2012 LTD with the normal options.
Last edited by Dieselchessy; 12-15-2019 at 01:56 PM.
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12-15-2019, 02:03 PM
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#28
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Do this; in the am when the engine is cold drive it and listen. Listen for the noise to be more prominent and happen with milder deceleration when cold, and then get less prominent and take harder deceleration to make the sound when warmed up.
If it does that, then replace the fan clutch. And then don’t blame me when it doesn’t work. LOL
I use aftermarket fan clutches. Last time I looked Toyota ones were spendy.
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Owned 82, 83, 87 pickup, 98, 99 SR5 4runner
Currently own a 98 SR5, 5spd, 4x4, e-locker, no sunroof. 2012 LTD with the normal options.
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12-15-2019, 03:01 PM
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#29
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Elite Member
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Do you have a scan tool that reads live data? I would be curious to know what the long term fuel trims are when under deceleration.
Possibly the EVAP solenoid. They can get lazy and stick, depending on what type of crude has built up in the tube over time. I know other members have had the canister leak but usually throws the usual lean po171.
The intake manifold is cast like such by the way.
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12-15-2019, 09:32 PM
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#30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleCaesar
Do you have a scan tool that reads live data? I would be curious to know what the long term fuel trims are when under deceleration.
Possibly the EVAP solenoid. They can get lazy and stick, depending on what type of crude has built up in the tube over time. I know other members have had the canister leak but usually throws the usual lean po171.
The intake manifold is cast like such by the way.
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I am running -12.5% LTFT cruising at 65 mph. Then WOT it's -15%. Idle it's -2.3%
A while back I remember having a code about a bad evap canister and then it magically disappeared and it never came back.
I'll update if the new canister solves the noise. I think it might be cracked like borderline hair line and it requires a good deal of vacuum to pull through it.
I was gonna go for sensors, but after seeing the price of them and then the price of the canister with sensors I thought what the hell, go full bore. And with my luck if I replaced the sensor, it would have been the canister causing the issue or vice versa.
I'll kill two birds one stone here.
And the fan clutch is working properly.
I titled the as a vacuum leak kind of to provide a description of the noise im hearing.
I'm more impressed with the fact I'm the only one on interwebs with this specific issue....loll something is definitely up.
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