Clutch Engaging Too Low (Looking for suggestions) - Page 2 - Toyota 4Runner Forum

DreadPirateJon · 10-23-2019, 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jwpete

For what it's worth, during the clutch swap I pulled the TOB fork out and cleaned it up with a wire wheel because it was covered in old grease and clutch gunk. I think I would have noticed any major cracks, bends, or damage on the fork while i was cleaning it up, though to be fair, I wasn't looking for them at the time. In hindsight I wish i had gotten a replacement fork just to rule out another issue. Really hoping to not drop the trans again but it may have to happen.

To address the pressure plate comment, I did not use a torque wrench on the flex plate bolts like I know I should have, as mine does not go as low as the 14 ft. lbs required by the FSM. Shouldn't make a huge difference though right as it is simply snugging up to the flywheel? All the research I have done makes me believe that bolt torque should have no effect on clutch plate engagement or disengagement. But if any of you know better, please correct me.

One thing i'm beginning to suspect is just shoddy parts? All major clutch and hydraulic parts were O'Reilly "Power Torque" brand. I don't know if any of you have had any positive or negative experience with the quality of these parts. Perhaps the master cylinder rod or the slave cylinder are just not quite the right length? or the fingers on the pressure plate weren't quite right? Still more questions than answers.

Thanks to all of you for input!

Did you take any photos of the installation. I have seen a truck where the pressure plate was over torqued because they didn't use a wrench. (Harbour freight torque wrenches are actually really accurate so go grab some) and they couldn't disengage the clutch.

The forks should be nice and level when properly torqued.

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk

mike_m · 10-23-2019, 10:46 PM

I'll also add this. A couple of years ago my brother replaced his clutch/parts with autozone stuff and it behaved the same ways as yours. Barely let off on the clutch pedal before the jeep would start going. We tired different things to fix the issue and finally ended up pulling the tranny and replacing the clutch/pressure plate and it's hydraulic system with better quality parts. That solved our problem. Granted this jeep clutch/pressure plate and hydraulic system is different from Toyota's but my point is that your problem could due to low quality parts. Good luck and hopefully you won't have to pull tranny out again.

Mike M

St Runner · 10-24-2019, 07:03 AM

I also think you should check your clutch pedal adjustment first per FSM. Also make sure those little plastic buttons that your clutch switches hit are still intact

feta · 10-24-2019, 09:49 AM

I concur with St. Runner, there is a lot of adjustment under the dash to increase throw. Just don't wrench your back twisting in there, take seat out if you plan on working under there for an extended period of time.

I have had a couple 5 speeds and never had a low engagement.

davidch · 10-24-2019, 11:05 AM

I have installed clutches in three Gen3s. One V6, two I4s. All were Aisin clutch kits obtained from A Large Online Seller, CKT-040 and CKT-051 respectively.

In the first two jobs I had to use too much, in my opinion, of the travel adjustment under the dash to get proper pedal height.

For the 3rd job, I tried to do something while the transmission was removed to alleviate this situation, if only just a little bit. I perhaps bought myself 2 threads worth of adjustment under the dash.

The reasoning goes like this: if the flywheel is resurfaced, likely only .010 inches or so - make sure your machinist maintains the step - then the entire clutch assembly moves forward that amount.

What can be done to move the fork forward by that amount so the difference doesn't have to be taken up my the pushrod from the slave cylinder?

I installed a washer under the fork's fulcrum, that round-headed "bolt" at the back of the bell housing. Doing so moves the fulcrum forward by the washer's thickness. You wouldn't want to do more than 1/8", 3mm, or so as it doesn't have a real deep purchase in the aluminum. But it doesn't need a lot: it's under compression, not tension.

I think (I've not measured) the Aisin items sold outside the OEM channel are perhaps not the same height as the OEM ones. I know they're different in appearance. I've been happy with their performance.

Jwpete · 11-21-2019, 06:16 PM

Issue is finally resolved. Pulled the trans back out and re-torqued the pressure plate. Turns out I babied those bolts since I didn't have a torque wrench and they were not tightened enough and the pressure plate was not clamped all the way down against the flywheel which I guess gave me too little pre-load on the clutch spring. Anyway, picked up a correctly rated torque wrench, torqued the bolts all to spec, put everything back together and now the clutch engagement point is like 3" off the floor instead of on the floor. Hopefully my auto parts store parts hold up and I don't have to pull that trans again for some time.

sporkington · 07-15-2023, 05:27 PM

YOUR FIX WORKS!!! I replaced clutch fork, clutch fork pivot ball and the throw out bearing to no success but after implementing your fix it worked as normal. I assume my non oem flywheel or in your case machined flywheel had different offset/ tolerances than oem causing spacing to be messed up. I followed your suggestion of adding 1/8 washers and it works now. You could get away with up to 1/4 washers but that seemed unnecessary for my needs.

Site Navigation