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Old 10-28-2019, 11:43 PM #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T4topher View Post
Honestly I love the look of my addicted off road bumper a lot but wasn’t too impressed with the rigidity of the bumper. After you install the frame crossmember the bumper only has 6 bolts on the front holding it to that cross member. I think if he would’ve made brackets that also attach to the ‘dinky’ body mounts or made the bolts on the bumper attach on the sides also instead of only on the front it would have really stiffened it up. When I put my full body weight on the grill guard I can see the bumper flex a bit up/down. I’ve been trying to think of a way to stiffen the bumper a bit.
The way it bolts up is because the crossmember actually adapts the front bumper from an 86-95 pickup/runner. I've seen plenty of bumpers bolted to stock mounts on those take a lot of abuse and on the newer 4runners and Tacos they went back to a similar mounting structure. It just works better than what we have. You should see if it's just slop in the front crossmember you're feeling. If I was to buy the addicted bumper I'd just go ahead and weld the outer edges of the crossmember to the frame for maximum rigidity, or run another plate down the outside of the frame like previously mentioned if I planned on heavy winching.

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'97 3RZ 5 Speed "FrankenRunner" (Build Thread) - Dormant

The "shitmobile" 500$ 3RZ Auto 4Runner - (Saved from the Scrapyard: Resurrecting a 500$ 3rd Gen

02 Tacoma Double Cab, mid-travel, locked, armored, supercharged and riced. (Longbed and 5 speed in the works)
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Old 10-29-2019, 12:01 AM #17
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Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
The plating back to the strut towers can be done inside the frame as well. You can cut the end caps off and slide 1/8 plate all the way back to the start of the arch. Then drill and fill the inner plates in. Also cut welding windows along the the top and bottom to super tie it all together. Grind it all smooth and you have decent strength all the way back to the front axles.

This way you won't have to cut the body mounts off and weld them back on. ;)

Plus you can even weld the end caps back on to seal the front frame rails back up.

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I honestly thought it was gonna be a pain but it was super easy. I'm not a master fabricator I know just enough to get myself into trouble. There is a ton of extra wiggle room in the mount hole itself. After sawzalling them off and grinding clean they bolted right back up and welded on easy.

I chose the outsides of the frame rails because I wanted to start with a basic front hitch and build from there since I wanted to use the winch on a cradle to save approach angle and not have my winch sitting out in the weather 365. I was able to weld it all around solid this way to the front crossmember/hitch and it'll never go anywhere. I nearly wrecked my old bumper that connected to factory points last year on a rough off camber winching, decided never again.

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'97 3RZ 5 Speed "FrankenRunner" (Build Thread) - Dormant

The "shitmobile" 500$ 3RZ Auto 4Runner - (Saved from the Scrapyard: Resurrecting a 500$ 3rd Gen

02 Tacoma Double Cab, mid-travel, locked, armored, supercharged and riced. (Longbed and 5 speed in the works)
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Old 10-29-2019, 08:23 AM #18
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That looks alot better. Tubes have lots of strength. The hitch in the front will be extremely useful. Great job. That will work.

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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
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Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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Old 10-29-2019, 09:40 AM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
If you guys really want to stiffen those front ends up. The only way I see how to do it is how a mentioned. You could even drill the frame and bolt those plates in the frame back to that engine cross member to the front axle.

However, this will be removing all your crush points in the frame in the front section. So that needs to be considered.

How I would do it is build a upside u. That slides into the frame all the way back to the axle area. That way it could be either welded in permanently or bolted in. You could even have a bottom welded in above those front tow hook bolts and nuts and bolts max height. This would create a box within a box and if it made put of 1/8 plate. It's not going to bend very easily at all.

Basically, we are trying to mimic the back hitch but inside the frame. Basically your inner frame plates become like the reciever that accepts your ball. You be surprised how much this will stiffen the frame. Especially if bolted first then welded in to make it all solid.

At the end of the frame. I would make it a box the entire way out to your bumper. I would also put a homemade crossmember out there right behind those bumper mounts. For that crossmember, I would use square or rectangular tubing. Even if you had to cut some of your bumper mount out to get it in there. That way you have it as strong as it could possibly be. :]



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Made the frame unbreakable, and move your crumple zones into replaceable bumpers. Keep her under 60 mph. And drive smart.
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Old 10-29-2019, 12:26 PM #20
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Arb

I've had my ARB on for the last three years and can speak for its strength/rigidity. Two winters ago I took a corner too fast and didn't realize just how slick it was. Ended up overcorrecting and went straight into a guard rail at 10-15 mph. Judging from how rattled I was, I assumed there would be damage for sure. But there was nothing more than some paint flakes and a few scratches. I was super impressed!
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Old 10-29-2019, 06:43 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jross20 View Post
Made the frame unbreakable, and move your crumple zones into replaceable bumpers. Keep her under 60 mph. And drive smart.
There are bend points all over those frame rails. The arch areas have them as well. Unless your area is different then mine. You can drive as smart as you like, but people run into you. That is another reason why I plate inside frame from bumper to bumper. I may get ran into, but that Civic is not going to drive away...

Bumpers are not bumpers anymore they are 5mph tin foil or plastic bump guards...:
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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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Old 10-29-2019, 09:54 PM #22
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However I must add. Plate bumpers are bumpers and I am liking some of these setups. Way stronger them the OEM tin foil ones.

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7 3rd gens listed in the build thread (2 are parts mobiles)
Build Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...os-builds.html
Brillo's Bucket Fluid Ex changer: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post3358086
Sparks Plugs Wire and Coil Information: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...on-5vz-fe.html
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Old 10-31-2019, 01:31 AM #23
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In my old 4x4 I had a high clearance plate bumper well tied into the frame. I absolutely destroyed the toyota previa that hit me from the side at about 40 mph. Literally plowed a furrow from the front headlight to the drivers side door. Enough of an impact that some of his tires were popped, and my vehicle spun about 120 degrees. After the accident report, he was winched onto a rollback and they had to clean up a bunch of fluids.

I drove home.

I am looking forward to finally building a bumper for the 4runner. The stock bumper just keeps getting more and more deformed, it is not up to the task of wheeling.
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Old 10-31-2019, 03:43 PM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
There are bend points all over those frame rails. The arch areas have them as well. Unless your area is different then mine. You can drive as smart as you like, but people run into you. That is another reason why I plate inside frame from bumper to bumper. I may get ran into, but that Civic is not going to drive away...

Bumpers are not bumpers anymore they are 5mph tin foil or plastic bump guards...:
Honestly this is why I'm getting the ARB bumper, it has crash cans. it's really unfortunate that they don't have something you could install, weld on, whatever, basically an energy absorber that would save you and the frame. Something that you would just have to replace after it was used instead of scraping a perfectly fine vehicle
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Old 10-31-2019, 07:31 PM #25
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It's "Done" first iteration. The paint sucks but I'm fine with it. Just for anyone wondering what the finished product looked like. Sheetmetal protection was at about the lowest priority for me, I'd already trimmed back the core support significantly to increase clearance. I'm surprised how well it suits the lines of the truck considering how little actual measurement was done.

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'97 3RZ 5 Speed "FrankenRunner" (Build Thread) - Dormant

The "shitmobile" 500$ 3RZ Auto 4Runner - (Saved from the Scrapyard: Resurrecting a 500$ 3rd Gen

02 Tacoma Double Cab, mid-travel, locked, armored, supercharged and riced. (Longbed and 5 speed in the works)
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