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Old 11-06-2019, 03:45 PM #31
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I was hoping Leon that you would take the saved $$$ and procure some new front shocks for your ride if the Tokicos are original.
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Old 11-07-2019, 12:44 PM #32
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I was hoping Leon that you would take the saved $$$ and procure some new front shocks for your ride if the Tokicos are original.
Yup, I'm buying new bushings, shocks, and spacer plates ... Gotta show the Runner some TLC for its 200,000 mile birthday!
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Old 11-07-2019, 03:12 PM #33
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Yup, I'm buying new bushings, shocks, and spacer plates ... Gotta show the Runner some TLC for its 200,000 mile birthday!
Its been able to drink legally for over a year now!

-Charlie
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Old 11-07-2019, 11:48 PM #34
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Its been able to drink legally for over a year now!

-Charlie
Hard to believe the truck is that old, but it is. Well, with all the $$ I had left over, I sprung for 8 new LBJ bolts (I didn't replace them when I put in the new LBJs, so now is the time).
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Old 11-25-2019, 10:37 PM #35
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So I'm back with new LCA bushings. Fairly easy to replace them, thanks to the alluded to "bottle jack and MAPP gas" method . I spent more time painting stuff than I did wrenching.







And to answer the original question? Yes and no - it's normal to be able to move the LCA's up and down, even with the bolts fully torqued. Don't ask me why, it makes no sense to me. But, compare the new movement to the one in first post - zero creaking! So, it was not all for naught!

Before:





After:




.
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Old 11-25-2019, 11:37 PM #36
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Paint looks nice - how’d you clean & prep them for paint?


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Old 11-26-2019, 10:55 AM #37
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Paint looks nice - how’d you clean & prep them for paint?


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+1 would like to do this to mine as well. Bushings are on To-Do list as well.
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Old 11-26-2019, 11:32 AM #38
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It's POR-15, the best stuff ever made. Sticks to anything (including your skin), and hard as a rock when it's dry. Doesn't require too much prep - scuff the surface, remove heavy rust (no need to go to bare metal), hit it with degreaser and metal prep, and go wild.
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Old 11-26-2019, 05:24 PM #39
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POR15 is great although any sort of paint will always stick better to the bare metal. i recommend you atleast get the rust/surface rust off the LCAs and then coat that way (AFTER cleaning your arms very well). i would completely strip my arms, but i dont have enough time.

i also recommend you put poly bushings in these, i went with the sonoran steel ones (strong flex). unless your rig is bone stock and not used for anything fun, why replace with rubber? if you can swing it, i also recommend the Eimkeith LCA reinforcement kit; they tie everything in together and make the bottom rivets disappear into a skid plate.

OP, i think your arms move because of the OEM bushing design. the metal spacers probably help relieve the tension with the rubber. although i will say i am still surprised to see them move that easy. glad to hear you spend more time painting as i will be installing my spare set of LCAs on thanksgiving.
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Old 11-26-2019, 06:15 PM #40
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POR15 is great although any sort of paint will always stick better to the bare metal. i recommend you atleast get the rust/surface rust off the LCAs and then coat that way (AFTER cleaning your arms very well).
POR-15 adheres best to surface rust (not flaking off). From their website: "POR-15 likes rusted surfaces best. Seasoned metal and sandblasted metal are also good. POR-15 does not adhere well to smooth, shiny surfaces, but will adhere well to those surfaces with the proper preparation."
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Old 11-26-2019, 06:19 PM #41
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POR-15 adheres best to surface rust (not flaking off). From their website: "POR-15 likes rusted surfaces best. Seasoned metal and sandblasted metal are also good. POR-15 does not adhere well to smooth, shiny surfaces, but will adhere well to those surfaces with the proper preparation."
im not doing rust prevention by covering up rust; even if its just surface rust. any painter knows that bare, clean metal creates the best foundation for adhesion.

that is interesting to know about POR15. id still recommend getting rid of all rust and then applying. even if its just surface rust. thanks for that info.
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Old 11-26-2019, 06:21 PM #42
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POR-15 also adheres extremely well to bare skin and hair, spoken by someone who will be sporting these black spots at the Thanksgiving dinner table .
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Old 11-26-2019, 06:23 PM #43
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im not doing rust prevention by covering up rust; even if its just surface rust. any painter knows that bare, clean metal creates the best foundation for adhesion.

that is interesting to know about POR15. id still recommend getting rid of all rust and then applying. even if its just surface rust. thanks for that info.
To be fair, many of the areas in the suspension and frame cannot be properly cleaned to bare metal without sandblasting, which was not in the cards for me. Scuffing the painted areas, and lightly wire brushing the rusty areas (which was mostly on the welds), was good enough for me. But I'm in CA, I might feel differently if this was a Minnesota or Pennsylvania truck.
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Old 11-26-2019, 06:24 PM #44
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thats how you know you got the good stuff.

kudos to ya'll for taking rust removal so seriously. even though it snows where i live, its not enough to warrant salt. generally speaking all of the cars here are very clean on their underside. i know a lot of people who would just chalk it up as an 'old toyota' and throw it away, but not ya'll!!

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To be fair, many of the areas in the suspension and frame cannot be properly cleaned to bare metal without sandblasting, which was not in the cards for me. Scuffing the painted areas, and lightly wire brushing the rusty areas (which was mostly on the welds), was good enough for me. But I'm in CA, I might feel differently if this was a Minnesota or Pennsylvania truck.
yes, i agree. but my original comment was about the LCAs. which you can easily take off and strip/coat. obviously a frame is different. of course scuffing and cleaning is about all you can do in those very hard to reach areas. the big thing is you got the POR15 laid down and now it can do its job!
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Old 11-26-2019, 06:25 PM #45
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im not doing rust prevention by covering up rust; even if its just surface rust. any painter knows that bare, clean metal creates the best foundation for adhesion.

that is interesting to know about POR15. id still recommend getting rid of all rust and then applying. even if its just surface rust. thanks for that info.
It seems counter-intuitive but that's just how POR-15 works. POR stands for Paint Over Rust and they formulated it just for that. "POR-15 works because it chemically bonds to rusted metal and forms a rock- hard, non-porous coating that won't crack, chip, or peel. It keeps moisture away from metal with a coating that is strengthened by continued exposure to moisture."
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