Are the front and rear bushings on that A-arm are same or different?

Tim, how are those whiteline bushings holding on?

I might replace the bushings on my 97 but wondering what bushing to buy or just get the control arms.
Part number for front: 48061-35040: Rear is 48061-35050

The part numbers for the OEM rubber bushings are different front and rear so they are different bushings. I helped @JZiggy swap his out and he chose OEM replacements. I also remember Jordan paying attention to how the original ones were installed into the arm and we got the new ones installed in the same orientation. Basically looking at how the gaps in the rubber bushing were oriented in relation to the arm. Maybe Jordan will see I tagged him and will chime in because I don't know if I'm describing this very well.

My Whiteline bushings are holding up fine but I probably only have around 8k miles on them. Too early to tell what the longevity of the poly bushings will be on my end but I'm guessing there's some dudes who probably have 30k or more miles on them by now.

You can save a considerable amount just replacing the bushings. I think the hardest part of this job is if you find one or more of your cam adjuster sleeves is rusted in place inside the bushing sleeve. It's some tedious reciprocating sawing even with some good blades.

No worries, glad you already have one. Looks easy enough, the biggest pain seems to be fighting with the rack to get the bolts out. Mine is totally rust free, so I don't expect any issues with that.

I'll probably go with OEM bushings. Looks a quality day with my suspension is in my future.

You may as well replace your steering rack bushings at the same time. Read the video description for the LCA bushing video and read the pinned comment because we provide updated information in both areas. Basically, you don't have to mess with the steering rack boots. You can get the steering rack back far enough to clear the rear LCA bolts if you disconnect the power steering line bracket on the driver side frame rail.

Cool, thanks Tim, I didn't look at the details yet, so this is good to know. And I replaced the rack bushings a couple of years ago, so those should still be good.

I'm mentally trading off spending $50-70 on each arm new bushings, vs getting new Toyota arms for about $200 each and saving all the press work. I'll probably just replace the bushings, but will ponder a bit more.

I hope you choose to replace just the bushings. You know, $260 can buy you a lot of beer.

Or a Harbor Freight 20 ton press and beer.

-Charlie

Sounds like a party at Leon's place

It'll be a short party. Once the LCA's are out it takes less then 10 minutes per side to press out the old bushings and put the new ones in. I used Whitelines and froze them for 48 hours before the install. I literally tapped them in with a rubber mallet. I've got about 7000 on them and they are still fine. At least 1/4 of that is wheeling miles. If they can survive what I do to them I'm sure you'll be fine. lol

Tools of the trade:

Yes, but I'll need help drinking all the beer .

It's funny, you posted just as I was researching "Whitelines vs OEM". I was leaning OEM, but am open to other options, especially if they are half the price. Why did you choose Whitelines over OEM?

Honestly, I could get the Whitelines in 2 days from Amazon. OEM would have taken a week. I ordered Wednesday and installed them Saturday. Wheeled Saturday afternoon and Sunday. lol

Are they any harsher or noisier than OEM?

Not that I've noticed but keep in mind I'm on 35" PitBull Rockers. The only thing I hear are those. I'm also running a pretty beefy sound system so I just crank that up to drown out the tire noise. My rig could throw a rod and I probably wouldn't hear it. lol

I've had my whitelines in for 60,000+ miles. No signs of wear, feel as normal as OEM & no noise. I've only greased them once during install. You'll be good with OEM or whitelines. Whitelines are just cheaper.

Thanks guys!