Its been able to drink legally for over a year now!
-Charlie
Hard to believe the truck is that old, but it is. Well, with all the $$ I had left over, I sprung for 8 new LBJ bolts (I didn't replace them when I put in the new LBJs, so now is the time).
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1997 4Runner Limited 4WD E-Locker ~200k | Falken Wildpeak A/T3W 265/75/16 | Pro Comp 69 16x8 | OME 2906 | B&M 70264
Addicted Offroad Front Bumper | Spiker Engineering High-Lift Hood Struts and Ultragauge Mount
So I'm back with new LCA bushings. Fairly easy to replace them, thanks to the alluded to "bottle jack and MAPP gas" method . I spent more time painting stuff than I did wrenching.
And to answer the original question? Yes and no - it's normal to be able to move the LCA's up and down, even with the bolts fully torqued. Don't ask me why, it makes no sense to me. But, compare the new movement to the one in first post - zero creaking! So, it was not all for naught!
Before:
After:
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1997 4Runner Limited 4WD E-Locker ~200k | Falken Wildpeak A/T3W 265/75/16 | Pro Comp 69 16x8 | OME 2906 | B&M 70264
Addicted Offroad Front Bumper | Spiker Engineering High-Lift Hood Struts and Ultragauge Mount
It's POR-15, the best stuff ever made. Sticks to anything (including your skin), and hard as a rock when it's dry. Doesn't require too much prep - scuff the surface, remove heavy rust (no need to go to bare metal), hit it with degreaser and metal prep, and go wild.
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1997 4Runner Limited 4WD E-Locker ~200k | Falken Wildpeak A/T3W 265/75/16 | Pro Comp 69 16x8 | OME 2906 | B&M 70264
Addicted Offroad Front Bumper | Spiker Engineering High-Lift Hood Struts and Ultragauge Mount
POR15 is great although any sort of paint will always stick better to the bare metal. i recommend you atleast get the rust/surface rust off the LCAs and then coat that way (AFTER cleaning your arms very well). i would completely strip my arms, but i dont have enough time.
i also recommend you put poly bushings in these, i went with the sonoran steel ones (strong flex). unless your rig is bone stock and not used for anything fun, why replace with rubber? if you can swing it, i also recommend the Eimkeith LCA reinforcement kit; they tie everything in together and make the bottom rivets disappear into a skid plate.
OP, i think your arms move because of the OEM bushing design. the metal spacers probably help relieve the tension with the rubber. although i will say i am still surprised to see them move that easy. glad to hear you spend more time painting as i will be installing my spare set of LCAs on thanksgiving.
POR15 is great although any sort of paint will always stick better to the bare metal. i recommend you atleast get the rust/surface rust off the LCAs and then coat that way (AFTER cleaning your arms very well).
POR-15 adheres best to surface rust (not flaking off). From their website: "POR-15 likes rusted surfaces best. Seasoned metal and sandblasted metal are also good. POR-15 does not adhere well to smooth, shiny surfaces, but will adhere well to those surfaces with the proper preparation."
POR-15 adheres best to surface rust (not flaking off). From their website: "POR-15 likes rusted surfaces best. Seasoned metal and sandblasted metal are also good. POR-15 does not adhere well to smooth, shiny surfaces, but will adhere well to those surfaces with the proper preparation."
im not doing rust prevention by covering up rust; even if its just surface rust. any painter knows that bare, clean metal creates the best foundation for adhesion.
that is interesting to know about POR15. id still recommend getting rid of all rust and then applying. even if its just surface rust. thanks for that info.
im not doing rust prevention by covering up rust; even if its just surface rust. any painter knows that bare, clean metal creates the best foundation for adhesion.
that is interesting to know about POR15. id still recommend getting rid of all rust and then applying. even if its just surface rust. thanks for that info.
To be fair, many of the areas in the suspension and frame cannot be properly cleaned to bare metal without sandblasting, which was not in the cards for me. Scuffing the painted areas, and lightly wire brushing the rusty areas (which was mostly on the welds), was good enough for me. But I'm in CA, I might feel differently if this was a Minnesota or Pennsylvania truck.
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1997 4Runner Limited 4WD E-Locker ~200k | Falken Wildpeak A/T3W 265/75/16 | Pro Comp 69 16x8 | OME 2906 | B&M 70264
Addicted Offroad Front Bumper | Spiker Engineering High-Lift Hood Struts and Ultragauge Mount
kudos to ya'll for taking rust removal so seriously. even though it snows where i live, its not enough to warrant salt. generally speaking all of the cars here are very clean on their underside. i know a lot of people who would just chalk it up as an 'old toyota' and throw it away, but not ya'll!!
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Originally Posted by 4Runner4Leon
To be fair, many of the areas in the suspension and frame cannot be properly cleaned to bare metal without sandblasting, which was not in the cards for me. Scuffing the painted areas, and lightly wire brushing the rusty areas (which was mostly on the welds), was good enough for me. But I'm in CA, I might feel differently if this was a Minnesota or Pennsylvania truck.
yes, i agree. but my original comment was about the LCAs. which you can easily take off and strip/coat. obviously a frame is different. of course scuffing and cleaning is about all you can do in those very hard to reach areas. the big thing is you got the POR15 laid down and now it can do its job!
im not doing rust prevention by covering up rust; even if its just surface rust. any painter knows that bare, clean metal creates the best foundation for adhesion.
that is interesting to know about POR15. id still recommend getting rid of all rust and then applying. even if its just surface rust. thanks for that info.
It seems counter-intuitive but that's just how POR-15 works. POR stands for Paint Over Rust and they formulated it just for that. "POR-15 works because it chemically bonds to rusted metal and forms a rock- hard, non-porous coating that won't crack, chip, or peel. It keeps moisture away from metal with a coating that is strengthened by continued exposure to moisture."