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Old 11-07-2019, 06:47 PM #16
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I've done 4 valve adjustments on multiple vehicles with both the 3VZ-E and 5VZ-FE engines. The process is the same. My local dealership flat out refuses to do a valve adjustment because it can quickly become an extremely frustrating job if you are not able to remove the intake camshafts (like when doing a timing belt job at the same time, for example).

Unless you have a supply of shims on hand, you'll be special ordering the shims from Toyota for the exact size needed. They come in 0.05 steps in size from about 2.50 mm to 3.25 mm. It's an extremely precise job that involves a lot of patience. It would be simpler than an engine swap though, but not a JDM swap. You have to strip a JDM down to a dressed long block, remove parts off your engine, put them on the JDM engine and then put it in. Took me about 2 months of work.

That's a lot of work for an engine that actually runs ok.
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Old 11-07-2019, 06:57 PM #17
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OK well if you would rather read about some cubic-dollar "build" there's lots of that...

I'm no rich guy with a mud toy. I came in here looking for people experienced with getting these things going.

My valves are noisy - REAL noisy. Why else would anyone want to set them?

How much are valve shims? $8.22 Really. And there are 24 of them...

I don't want to bother anyone and/or get into any pissing matches. IF you please?

I am aware that toyota engines, as a rule, never need the valves adjusted. I wonder why mine does? Maybe poor oiling to the top end? Maybe low oil pressure?

It seems this motor does not have the type of oil pressure sender that will provide a PSI reading. One might assume. If it did those scan tools would display the oil pressure...

I perceive my posts as legitimate attempts to get the info I need. If you are (somehow) offended by them, please ignore them and have a wonderful life
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Old 11-07-2019, 07:05 PM #18
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Originally Posted by The Cold War Kid View Post
OK well if you would rather read about some cubic-dollar "build" there's lots of that...

I'm no rich guy with a mud toy. I came in here looking for people experienced with getting these things going.

My valves are noisy - REAL noisy. Why else would anyone want to set them?

How much are valve shims? $8.22 Really. And there are 24 of them...

I don't want to bother anyone and/or get into any pissing matches. IF you please?

I am aware that toyota engines, as a rule, never need the valves adjusted. I wonder why mine does? Maybe poor oiling to the top end? Maybe low oil pressure?

It seems this motor does not have the type of oil pressure sender that will provide a PSI reading. One might assume. If it did those scan tools would display the oil pressure...

I perceive my posts as legitimate attempts to get the info I need. If you are (somehow) offended by them, please ignore them and have a wonderful life
Dude, you need to relax and take a chill pill. If this is not your only vehicle, you can get the valve covers off, find out which valves need adjusting and then just buy the shims you need. I highly doubt your going to have to buy 24 shims.
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Old 11-07-2019, 07:10 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc View Post
I've done 4 valve adjustments on multiple vehicles with both the 3VZ-E and 5VZ-FE engines. The process is the same. My local dealership flat out refuses to do a valve adjustment because it can quickly become an extremely frustrating job if you are not able to remove the intake camshafts (like when doing a timing belt job at the same time, for example).

Unless you have a supply of shims on hand, you'll be special ordering the shims from Toyota for the exact size needed. They come in 0.05 steps in size from about 2.50 mm to 3.25 mm. It's an extremely precise job that involves a lot of patience. It would be simpler than an engine swap though, but not a JDM swap. You have to strip a JDM down to a dressed long block, remove parts off your engine, put them on the JDM engine and then put it in. Took me about 2 months of work.

That's a lot of work for an engine that actually runs ok.
Why do you need to remove the intake cams, and not the exhaust cams?

What parts need to be transferred? Throttle body? Sensors?

Everybody swore up and down this truck was bullet-proof and would last forever... I'm starting to regret buying it. Just today another problem surfaced. I'll have to start yet another thread...
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Old 11-07-2019, 07:16 PM #20
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Doesn't your truck have 300k+? If you expect to have to do nothing to a truck that's covered that much ground over almost 20 years you're a fool.

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Old 11-07-2019, 07:20 PM #21
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Originally Posted by The Cold War Kid View Post
Why do you need to remove the intake cams, and not the exhaust cams?

What parts need to be transferred? Throttle body? Sensors?

Everybody swore up and down this truck was bullet-proof and would last forever... I'm starting to regret buying it. Just today another problem surfaced. I'll have to start yet another thread...
He's saying that removing the cams makes adjusting the valves easier - but that only makes sense if you are doing major work to the heads. The valves can be adjusted with the cams in place if you have the right tools or rig something up (basically, you need to open the valve manual and pop the shim out).

For a JDM 5VZ engine into a US truck, EVERYTHING on the outside of the motor needs to be swapped over. All accessory drive pullies/brackets, manifolds (intake and exhaust), accessories, mounts, oil cooler, oil filter mount, engine mounts, etc. The JDM 5VZ's come from a HiAce (I believe) and have a totally different external configuration in that chassis. The motor itself (just the long block) is compatible.

These trucks are as bulletproof as a ~20 year old vehicle can be. If it was mistreated or neglected, it *will* have problems. Reliable doesn't mean maintenance free - and 20 years and a few hundred thousand miles means there will be some work to keep it reliable. But many of us here are perfectly happy to hop in our 200k+ mile trucks and drive across country tomorrow with no worries.

-Charlie
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Old 11-07-2019, 07:29 PM #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
He's saying that removing the cams makes adjusting the valves easier - but that only makes sense if you are doing major work to the heads. The valves can be adjusted with the cams in place if you have the right tools or rig something up (basically, you need to open the valve manual and pop the shim out).

For a JDM 5VZ engine into a US truck, EVERYTHING on the outside of the motor needs to be swapped over. All accessory drive pullies/brackets, manifolds (intake and exhaust), accessories, mounts, oil cooler, oil filter mount, engine mounts, etc. The JDM 5VZ's come from a HiAce (I believe) and have a totally different external configuration in that chassis. The motor itself (just the long block) is compatible.

These trucks are as bulletproof as a ~20 year old vehicle can be. If it was mistreated or neglected, it *will* have problems. Reliable doesn't mean maintenance free - and 20 years and a few hundred thousand miles means there will be some work to keep it reliable. But many of us here are perfectly happy to hop in our 200k+ mile trucks and drive across country tomorrow with no worries.

-Charlie
I've already done some work on the truck, Charlie. Like a new driveshaft, fixed the heater (door motor), changed the o2 sensors, serviced the trans, plugs, wires, oil change and general servicing... I'm not expecting a new truck and I'm willing to pay my dues.

It's interesting - the so-called JDM engines I've seen online look exactly like the one in the runner... So maybe not JDM after all?
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Old 11-07-2019, 08:03 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Cold War Kid View Post
It's interesting - the so-called JDM engines I've seen online look exactly like the one in the runner... So maybe not JDM after all?
The differences are subtle enough that if you don't know exactly what you are looking for, you won't see them in the standard pictures.



In this picture you can easily see:
- Heater lines over the intake manifold
- Oil filter in wrong location
- Wrong exhaust manifold

-Charlie
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Old 11-07-2019, 09:15 PM #24
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If you have a pcv valve stuck. Or major vaccum leak. Your valves can get noisy.

Has the knock sensor been verified as functioning properly?


Rough idles from vaccum leaks can get rattely..


I do believe the FSM has the procedure on how to shim the valves as well. Along with all the video and comments from people here that have done it.


If the engine was abused with oil not being changed regularly with new filters. Its possible your cams and valve train is extremely warn.


To test this theory

You could thicken the oil a little.

2 ways of easily doing it

1] use 10w - 30 conventional oil or synthetic blend.

2] as a test, replace 1 quart of oil with one quart of locus heavy duty oil stabilizer


If this quiets the engine valve train down big time. I would suspect heavy wear in the valve train.

As an Example:


I have one of my 5 4 runners the valves are very noisy on. I know its heavily damaged by abuse because the head gasket was leaking antifreeze and its TC is damaged.

Its PO 2 owners ago abused the living delights of of the rig. Thus causing all this damage.


I also have a 1998 4 runner v6 with 256k on the clock that purs like a kitten. Its original owner did basic maintenance.

Its amazing the differences between these engines and they are identical as the damaged one has 250k on the clock and also 1998 limited v6




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Old 11-08-2019, 04:03 PM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Cold War Kid View Post
Why do you need to remove the intake cams, and not the exhaust cams?

What parts need to be transferred? Throttle body? Sensors?

Everybody swore up and down this truck was bullet-proof and would last forever... I'm starting to regret buying it. Just today another problem surfaced. I'll have to start yet another thread...
I should back up a little. There's two ways to remove the shims: with a valve adjustment tool set or by removing the camshafts. The valve adjustment tools look like a pair of curved pliers with a small pick, you compress the valve bucket (but not pinning down the shim) and then you use the small pick and wedge it on the small knife edge of the bucket against the bottom of the camshaft shaft. If you do it right, the pliers will release and hold the bucket down but not the shim, allowing you to pop it out with a small screwdriver and magnet. Takes a good 20 tries before you get it right the first time though, very frustrating.

If you want to remove the camshafts, the whole engine has to be torn apart. Fan, belts, timing cover, timing belt, tensioner, it's a long list of parts in addition to the top end parts that need to removed to access both valve covers. Basically stripping it down to a long block at that point. However, you just measure the gaps, unbolt the camshafts and the shim are just sitting there to swap in and out.

Either way, both are big jobs that would take a lot of time. I would not recommend having a shop do due to the labor costs alone.
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Old 11-08-2019, 10:19 PM #26
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Something else i'm curious to know is if you hear it when its cold at first start up or after its gotten up to operating temperature. Mine has always "tapped" since the day I got it. But only when its warmed up and I'm pretty mush 100% sure its related to the ABS canister on that side clicking/actuating through the vacuum lines. I had read somewhere that it wasn't valves but it sounds a lot similar to valves tapping. Could be wrong. But without actually hearing it It's hard to know from a forum what is actually going on. BTW I've put 33k on mine since I bought it making that "noise" and its been totally fine, and my engine was super sludged up and I had a low oil pressure light. Had to clean oil pan, sludge, pickup tube, and replace the lower connecting rod bearings....So if i've put 35k on my engine since doing all that I would say yeah these engines are pretty damn robust! I feel like you're just trying to find something to come on here and complain about when the majority of us don't even consider it a real big issue. Just my .02 hope you get whatever it is figured out. Cheers!
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Old 11-09-2019, 08:00 AM #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Js'00imited4runner View Post
Something else i'm curious to know is if you hear it when its cold at first start up or after its gotten up to operating temperature. Mine has always "tapped" since the day I got it. But only when its warmed up and I'm pretty mush 100% sure its related to the ABS canister on that side clicking/actuating through the vacuum lines. I had read somewhere that it wasn't valves but it sounds a lot similar to valves tapping. Could be wrong. But without actually hearing it It's hard to know from a forum what is actually going on. BTW I've put 33k on mine since I bought it making that "noise" and its been totally fine, and my engine was super sludged up and I had a low oil pressure light. Had to clean oil pan, sludge, pickup tube, and replace the lower connecting rod bearings....So if i've put 35k on my engine since doing all that I would say yeah these engines are pretty damn robust! I feel like you're just trying to find something to come on here and complain about when the majority of us don't even consider it a real big issue. Just my .02 hope you get whatever it is figured out. Cheers!
Why would I want to "come on here and complain"? What's in it for me? I want to get my lil truck running right - that's all. If, in the process of doing so, I have a negative effect on those that are chauvinistic, about these trucks, my bad - I tend to speak directly and without the sugar coating.

My noise is barely present at startup and gets louder as the motor warms.

What is an "ABS CANISTER"? You're saying the ABS system is doing something all the time - even when the brakes are not being applied? Maybe my understanding of that system is incomplete...

I would be very happy to learn it is not the valves. I will use a stethoscope on it tomorrow, in order to find out!

If you are not anal about your vehicle and the way it runs valve noise is not a big issue. However, when there are loose clearances that is a good sign there are valves that are too tight, as well, and THAT IS a big issue.
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Old 11-09-2019, 08:11 AM #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brillo_76 View Post
If you have a pcv valve stuck. Or major vaccum leak. Your valves can get noisy.

Has the knock sensor been verified as functioning properly?


Rough idles from vaccum leaks can get rattely..


I do believe the FSM has the procedure on how to shim the valves as well. Along with all the video and comments from people here that have done it.


If the engine was abused with oil not being changed regularly with new filters. Its possible your cams and valve train is extremely warn.


To test this theory

You could thicken the oil a little.

2 ways of easily doing it

1] use 10w - 30 conventional oil or synthetic blend.

2] as a test, replace 1 quart of oil with one quart of locus heavy duty oil stabilizer


If this quiets the engine valve train down big time. I would suspect heavy wear in the valve train.

As an Example:


I have one of my 5 4 runners the valves are very noisy on. I know its heavily damaged by abuse because the head gasket was leaking antifreeze and its TC is damaged.

Its PO 2 owners ago abused the living delights of of the rig. Thus causing all this damage.


I also have a 1998 4 runner v6 with 256k on the clock that purs like a kitten. Its original owner did basic maintenance.

Its amazing the differences between these engines and they are identical as the damaged one has 250k on the clock and also 1998 limited v6




Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
The PCV valve was stuck. I think it was the one toyota installed at the factory, as was the fuel filter. First thing I thought when I test drove this truck was the top end was overheating. I've remedied several things, including the thermostat and a new fuel/air sensor.

I'm amazed by how quickly the temp gauge come up. I fixed it, too - lol - new sender. It takes about 2 blocks for it to show operating temp and the heater to begin working. Not sure what that's a sign of but at least the cooling system is working.

The idle is smooth. The motor runs good now. I don't think there are any vacuum leaks. There seems to be a port on the intake manifold to measure that. I'll try to remember to do that. Now, where is that gauge...

I'd like to verify the oil pressure before I get any farther into this motor.
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Old 11-09-2019, 08:14 AM #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
The differences are subtle enough that if you don't know exactly what you are looking for, you won't see them in the standard pictures.



In this picture you can easily see:
- Heater lines over the intake manifold
- Oil filter in wrong location
- Wrong exhaust manifold

-Charlie
Yeah. And so this motor is still being used in Japan?
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Old 11-09-2019, 10:07 AM #30
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Here's a thread to support what I was saying about the ABS charcoal canister.

My "solution" to the charcoal canister clicking and "thupping" issue

Took me 2 seconds to type in google "3rd gen 4runner ABS canister clicking"
this could be what the cuprit is and it may have only gotten louder. Good luck
figuring this out.
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