1/8" National Pipe Thread to 1/8" British Standard Pipe adapter
toyota uses BSP most after market oil pressure gauges use NPT
and of course an oil pressure gauge. most sold in the US are only NPT connections. you can thread a NPT into your block but don't do it... will fock up the threads.
FSM
Oil pressure At idle speed (normal operating temperature)
29 kPa (0.3 kgf/cm2, 4.3 psi) or more
You thread in a fitting where your oil pressure sensor is and wait for it to warm up to know where it's at. If it is low oil pressure theirs a chance it could be your connecting rod bearings which your's being a 2WD it's not too difficult to remove the oil pan like the 4WD having the diff in the way of the oil pan. (it's not fun). I hope you got this runner cheap because it sure sounds like theirs a lot of issues that came with it..Or you're just addressing issues that may come up in the future which is also a good idea. Good luck!
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2000 Limited 4wd Millenium Silver Metallic, E rear locker, KYB Monomax All around, '99 tall coils up front with daystar 1" spacer, OME 890's in back, Weathertech Floor and cargo Mats, Track decal shackle Brackets, Satoshi grill mod (wahoo), Diff breather mod, 200k+ and still going strong!
I think the oil light comes on if it gets below four. If that occurs, begin to look for another engine.
I bought mine with a low oil pressure light so I replaced the pressure sending unit and it still came on after only driving it maybe 30 more miles. Checked the pressure and it was at 0 once warmed up. Turns out the pan was so sludged up that the pickup tube was suffocating. Dropped the oil pan and replaced the connecting rod bearings and its been fine ever since. Wherever the PO was taking it he was paying for a oil "change" only to have probably never gotten them. Glad I got ahold of it because it probably would have ended up getting junked. The crank being cast iron can outlast the connecting rod bearings. Being its a 2wd it shouldn't be too difficult to drop the oil pan and investigate whats going on.
Heres what I scraped out of the pan then had a shop clean it with a high pressure degreaser/steaming machine.
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2000 Limited 4wd Millenium Silver Metallic, E rear locker, KYB Monomax All around, '99 tall coils up front with daystar 1" spacer, OME 890's in back, Weathertech Floor and cargo Mats, Track decal shackle Brackets, Satoshi grill mod (wahoo), Diff breather mod, 200k+ and still going strong!
Last edited by Js'00imited4runner; 11-09-2019 at 02:15 PM.
I bought mine with a low oil pressure light so I replaced the pressure sending unit and it still came on after only driving it maybe 30 more miles. Checked the pressure and it was at 0 once warmed up. Turns out the pan was so sludged up that the pickup tube was suffocating. Dropped the oil pan and replaced the connecting rod bearings and its been fine ever since. Wherever the PO was taking it he was paying for a oil "change" only to have probably never gotten them. Glad I got ahold of it because it probably would have ended up getting junked. The crank being cast iron can outlast the connecting rod bearings. Being its a 2wd it shouldn't be too difficult to drop the oil pan and investigate whats going on.
Heres what I scraped out of the pan then had a shop clean it with a high pressure degreaser/steaming machine.
Wow.
It just amazes me the number of people who just don’t follow regular oil change intervals.
It just amazes me the number of people who just don’t follow regular oil change intervals.
Any top end pics?
Haha yeah I know! Sad part is he was the original owner and it kinda turned into the spare/dog/extra college kids car and they just let it go down hill the last couple years of owning it. I bought it in july of '16 with 187k on it and have replaced, PCV valve, Fuel pump, fuel filter, air filter, Lower connecting rod bearings, cleaned and flushed the oil pan/pickup tube, Oil pressure sending unit. etc. etc. etc. I do have some invoices from the "shop" that had worked on it before and it seems that because of the high labor/parts costs they didn't wanna sink anymore money into it..Which worked out for me because I wrench on ALL of my own vehicles because parts and labor alone can total out what the vehicle is worth which is why they end up in the boneyards. It has 221,5xxK miles on it as of right now and I plan on driving it another 200K. No I don't have any top end pics of the engine unless I end up doing valve cover gaskets sometime soon I will snap a few. As of now I'm running 5w30 synthetic blend and changing the oil/filter every 5k miles. It's been to southern illinois 3 times (5 hr drive), and Nashville tn twice (8 hr drive) since I've owned it. But hey most people blame it all on the vehicle when most of the time its lack of maintenance on their end.
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2000 Limited 4wd Millenium Silver Metallic, E rear locker, KYB Monomax All around, '99 tall coils up front with daystar 1" spacer, OME 890's in back, Weathertech Floor and cargo Mats, Track decal shackle Brackets, Satoshi grill mod (wahoo), Diff breather mod, 200k+ and still going strong!
Last edited by Js'00imited4runner; 11-09-2019 at 04:56 PM.
Turns out the pan was so sludged up that the pickup tube was suffocating. Heres what I scraped out of the pan then had a shop clean it with a high pressure degreaser/steaming machine.
Dang! Paying for non oil changes, that blows. The op thought he was doing the right thing. Not!
1/8" National Pipe Thread to 1/8" British Standard Pipe adapter
toyota uses BSP most after market oil pressure gauges use NPT
and of course an oil pressure gauge. most sold in the US are only NPT connections. you can thread a NPT into your block but don't do it... will fock up the threads.
FSM
Oil pressure At idle speed (normal operating temperature)
29 kPa (0.3 kgf/cm2, 4.3 psi) or more
Recently found that the sound is coming from the fuel injectors (waky), so have no further reason to suspect the oil pressure. 4 psi is scary - VERY scary.
Motor runs great and gets 23 mpg. Will add new injectors and fuel pressure controller when the weather warms next spring.
With a truck this old you never know. The motor... the trans - ANYTHING might have been changed by the previous owners. Best thing is to assess the truck by what it's doing...
I want to get the wheels powder coated. Truck is all black so orange base with lots of metal flake... Should be a head turner!
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2001 Sr5 V6 2WD
"...The closer you get, to the meaning, the sooner you know, that you're DREAMING..." (Black Sabbath - HEAVEN AND HELL)
I bought mine with a low oil pressure light so I replaced the pressure sending unit and it still came on after only driving it maybe 30 more miles. Checked the pressure and it was at 0 once warmed up. Turns out the pan was so sludged up that the pickup tube was suffocating. Dropped the oil pan and replaced the connecting rod bearings and its been fine ever since. Wherever the PO was taking it he was paying for a oil "change" only to have probably never gotten them. Glad I got ahold of it because it probably would have ended up getting junked. The crank being cast iron can outlast the connecting rod bearings. Being its a 2wd it shouldn't be too difficult to drop the oil pan and investigate whats going on.
Heres what I scraped out of the pan then had a shop clean it with a high pressure degreaser/steaming machine.
WOW.. However, doesn't suprized me. People neglect everything. Its sad as ll that needed was normal oil and filter changes and the engine would be clean.
+1 on that pictures of the top end? I am curious what the valvtrain looks like.