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Old 02-15-2020, 08:47 PM #16
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Auto is out, manual is mostly bolted in now
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Old 02-21-2020, 04:35 PM #17
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So I finally got to drive this a little more today after getting my brake issue sorted out, really liking it so far but I have a question for someone who might know

I’m getting a good bit of vibration while driving, I am running the rear driveshaft only from the auto trans, no front driveshaft, could the too short rear drive shaft cause these vibrations? I have not gotten around to putting new joints in the manual driveshafts
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Old 02-21-2020, 06:24 PM #18
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Originally Posted by RandyBobandy View Post
So I finally got to drive this a little more today after getting my brake issue sorted out, really liking it so far but I have a question for someone who might know

I’m getting a good bit of vibration while driving, I am running the rear driveshaft only from the auto trans, no front driveshaft, could the too short rear drive shaft cause these vibrations? I have not gotten around to putting new joints in the manual driveshafts
Did you separate the two splined slip sections of the driveshaft at any point? It's important to put it back together splined the same exact way since the driveshaft is balanced all as one unit.

It could also be the grease, there is a bunch of grease packed in the slip section and I imagine by having a gap there now the grease may be settling to one side when parked and causing a vibration. Pump grease into there until you start to see some squeeze out.

I don't know how much the driveshaft can lengthen in the splined slip section before you see adverse affects, so it could be that as well. When I did my swap I kept my rear driveshaft and got a 1.25" spacer from Low Range Offroad so my driveshaft never actually changed length.
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Old 02-21-2020, 06:52 PM #19
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I did not separate them, you are probably right on the grease, I have new U joints for my manual driveshafts so I will get those in when I get a chance and see if they improve the vibrations

Do you think running without the front shaft could cause any vibrations?
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Old 02-21-2020, 07:39 PM #20
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Do you think running without the front shaft could cause any vibrations?
No.

Did you keep your transfer case during the swap? I kept my multi-mode when I did my swap so I only needed to shorten my front driveshaft 1.25". There's enough slip travel (at least on my '99 limited) in the front driveshaft to compress it 1.25", so I got a small flat head screw driver, and pressed the corner of it against zerk fitting (to allow grease to squeeze out) and compressed the driveshaft to the proper length. No need to get it professionally re-done.
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Old 02-21-2020, 07:52 PM #21
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Smile

Yes I kept the J shift transfer case that was attached to my auto, I’ve considered attempting a multi mode swap after I get this all finished up
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Old 02-21-2020, 07:59 PM #22
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Yes I kept the J shift transfer case that was attached to my auto, I’ve considered attempting a multi mode swap after I get this all finished up
My problem was that there were no driveshafts that were the correct length since I have multi-mode. I guess since yours is a j-shift, then you already have the manual driveshafts that are the correct length so swapping those will be easy.
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Old 02-21-2020, 08:03 PM #23
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Is that multi mode tcase and wiring a self contained unit that would swap into a non multi mode vehicle, or does it interact with the ecu or wheel speed sensors in some way?
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Old 02-22-2020, 02:54 AM #24
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Is that multi mode tcase and wiring a self contained unit that would swap into a non multi mode vehicle, or does it interact with the ecu or wheel speed sensors in some way?
The multi-mode transfer case has a stand-alone ECU in the driver side footwell area + there are a couple extra connectors on the transfer case itself. It interacts with the main ECU no differently than any other transfer case. The ECUs are actually exactly the same between a multi-mode 4Runner and a non-multi-mode 4Runner.

Since mine was a limited it already had the multi-mode so I don’t know every detail that would be involved. If you can read an electrical wiring diagram easily and are comfortable with wiring than I don’t see why you couldn’t swap one in.
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Old 02-22-2020, 03:10 PM #25
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I can't do either of those things, but that doesn't mean I won't try it eventually lol

anyone have any tips for driving a manual with a lunchbox locker, I used to love that locker when I had the auto but now I'm not so sure about it, I chirp the tires a lot
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Old 02-22-2020, 03:48 PM #26
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What is the power / acceleration difference like switching from auto to manual? Im pickup up my manual trans this upcoming weekend, got an entire donor swap from a 2000 and I also have a 2000. Complete with trim pieces. However, i plan to disassemble my manual and inspect all the components before running it in my truck. At the bare minimum im replacing all bearings and seals with oem parts.
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Old 02-22-2020, 04:28 PM #27
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I haven’t put a ton of miles on it yet since I was having a brake issue that I just got fixed and the interior is mostly taken apart waiting for wiring harnesses, however the annoying gear hunting up long hills is a thing of the past, power and acceleration seem better but that might just be my butt dyno. I used to have trouble maintaining speed up steep hills without locking the auto into 2, with the manual hills are no problem

I have 33s though so that definitely contributed to the sluggishness up hills
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Old 02-29-2020, 05:55 PM #28
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a little update here, and a big thanks to @geezerr54 for bailing me out of my wiring harness/ecu problem with parts from his junk rig, he did me a huge favor swapping harnesses with me and I very much appreciate it.

I got the engine wiring harness and ecu and will probably start putting them in later tonight or tomorrow. I did not take the dash harness because it was just too much work to remove it and then having to tear apart my dash to install the new harness, but I did get the pigtail connectors for the clutch switches, and the clutch start cancel assembly

so I have a question for any of you who have done this on a similar year, how should I go about wiring these switches into my dash harness? I am not super familiar with wiring so any help is greatly appreciated
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Old 02-29-2020, 10:06 PM #29
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There are 2 switches on there clutch pedal, the bottom one engages when you push the clutch pedal to the floor. Thats the starting circuit switch, it should have three wires. The other switch is at the top of the pedal and that is the cruise control switch. I never hooked that one up when I did my swap as I can't use it on the island I live on so you are on your own with that one. The clutch cancel switch goes into one of the blanks to the left of the steering wheel. Go to kolelt build thread on page three and he did a whole writeup on installing the clutch switch and the clutch cancel switch for a 97
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Old 02-29-2020, 10:28 PM #30
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awesome that writeup will help a lot, I don't plan to hook up the cruise control either, since I've never used it and don't really plan to.

one last question, about the plug that goes to the ecu from the body harness, do the wire colors on the auto body harness match up with the ones that would be attached to the manual body-ecu plug. can I just splice those together going by color? both my vehicle and the donor are 97s
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