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Old 11-11-2019, 01:41 PM #16
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Idk. I really like to stop my rig. My 83 Toyota master cylinder went bad. The master cylinder went spongy. I be sitting at a stop light and my brake pedal would head to the floor. This was just a standard old master cylinder though.


Since they were always screwed up and the fact your rig was maintained by people before you that never should have touched anything. They could have transmission fluid in the brake system.

The 01 and 02 have the really interesting as they are electric master cylinder with abs integration.

Being you replaced or inspected everything else. With no abs codes being mentioned. You are probably correct in saying it's in the master cylinder abs unit. :[

As I dont have to stand on my head nor take a bleeder loose cap off etc. To stop in my 01.



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Old 11-11-2019, 02:16 PM #17
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@brillo_76

I have a 2000! master cylinder and ABS unit are not integrated They are separate on my rig.

I think im going to replace the master cylinder with an OEM one and see what happens. If it still doesnt free them up, then i'm definitely going to point at the calipers.

I am going to have NTB replace them under warranty after they tow my car back 185 miles to the nearest NTB. then tow it back to my place.

They wont even install OEM calipers if I bought the calipers through them to install. They will only install the same exact caliper they installed. Its crap..
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Old 11-11-2019, 03:26 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STI_MECE View Post
@brillo_76

I have a 2000! master cylinder and ABS unit are not integrated They are separate on my rig.

I think im going to replace the master cylinder with an OEM one and see what happens. If it still doesnt free them up, then i'm definitely going to point at the calipers.

I am going to have NTB replace them under warranty after they tow my car back 185 miles to the nearest NTB. then tow it back to my place.

They wont even install OEM calipers if I bought the calipers through them to install. They will only install the same exact caliper they installed. Its crap..
My Bad. I thought it was a 01 for some reason. Even though its listen in your signature. :{ That would be my fault. Thank you for the correction.

My 97 and 98s are just like your 2000 separate abs from the master. I never had issues with them either. Push the pistons back and they stay put.
These are simpler systems.

I cant think of anything else it would be besides those 3 things.

Cant you change and your calipers and bleed the breaks yourself? Then you can get the good parts on the rig and eliminate that as a possibly?

These are not hard to change at all. I am sure Tim has a video on it if you are unsure how to do it.

NTB could make it worse then they already are. Dont you have a garage to change them in and tools.. Could be done in just a few hours provided you have the parts in hand and a brake bleeder too.;-)
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Old 11-11-2019, 03:57 PM #19
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@brillo_76 , yep I can replace the entire front brake system if I wanted to where im at. But i dont wanna drop the extra cash on those if I DON'T have too lol

I got the OEM master cylinder coming in tomorrow, and I will replace that after I do the timing belt (which I start today)

I'm doing the oil cooler fittings and orings, hoses, all the timing belt stuff, tensioner and everything, gunna swap the brake boosters too, new check valve going in, and the little hold down bracket.

Gotta go to junkyard tomorrow and get the hard lines for the front brakes. the fittings are were fubar'ed someone tightened the flare nuts down too much and they were expanded and not going back into the new rubber fitting ends.

on the plus side my mechanic knowledge is growing exponentially lol and I love learning so it is what it is. I just hope no one has to go through this pain and suffering on here like me lol
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Old 11-11-2019, 04:10 PM #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STI_MECE View Post
@brillo_76 , yep I can replace the entire front brake system if I wanted to where im at. But i dont wanna drop the extra cash on those if I DON'T have too lol

I got the OEM master cylinder coming in tomorrow, and I will replace that after I do the timing belt (which I start today)

I'm doing the oil cooler fittings and orings, hoses, all the timing belt stuff, tensioner and everything, gunna swap the brake boosters too, new check valve going in, and the little hold down bracket.

Gotta go to junkyard tomorrow and get the hard lines for the front brakes. the fittings are were fubar'ed someone tightened the flare nuts down too much and they were expanded and not going back into the new rubber fitting ends.

on the plus side my mechanic knowledge is growing exponentially lol and I love learning so it is what it is. I just hope no one has to go through this pain and suffering on here like me lol
Actually, this is typical of buying a used rig with people wrenching on it that shouldn't be. :{ I have seen many oh boy repairs in the past.

If you cant find the brake lines at a junk yard. You can use the napa japan ones

Source:
Front hard brake line into caliper leaking - please help!

From a"mainerunner"

"All you need is an 8" piece of brake line from any parts store that is 3/16"X 10mm-1.0 inverted flare. It's just a 3/16" brake line with metric thread AKA Japanese style brake line "

I didnt have the length in my notes 8 inch.

I used a ni cu line from Napa worked great
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Old 11-11-2019, 08:33 PM #21
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I agree 100%. I've been hearing reman calipers are a waste of money. They don't need to be OEM but they should be new from a reputable company. I'm looking at the Callahan's.

I replaced the rotors and pads on the front of my 01 and now I have the dreaded pulsing that indicates a warped rotor or two. I just got back from a 1200 mile trip and it didn't get worse but at times I didn't get the steering wheel shake (without hitting the brakes) which tells me the pistons sometimes retracted more than others.

I'll be checking for rotor warp with a dial indicator and if my new rotors are warped I'll replace them or it and the caliper(s).

What I'm wondering is if the ABS system can be causing any of this...
Follow up to this. I checked both rotors and they were fine. Within 1/1000th of runnout. On a whim I rotated the tires front to back and voila; the shimmy went away plus the pulsing was a little lessened. I believe the rear drums are out of round so I ordered some good quality Brembo drums. Spendy but not as spendy as the OEM from Toyota. I think the PO left the parking brake on because when I changed out the shoes the old ones were "cooked" looking with cracks going down the center (longways).

I took the rig back to the tire shop and explained the situation saying the (now) rear tires/wheels were either incorrectly balanced or maybe one of them has a bent wheel. The owner of the shop balanced them himself. I test drove it up to 80 mph and it was smooth all the way up to that speed.

I think I'm finally close to finishing the mechanical restoration on the 01. Should be good to go for the next 20+ years. Probably longer than I will be around. Spent over $10k but I think it was worth it to have a near new 2001 4Runner to drive as a daily driver. My go to rig so I can play with everything else and know I have this one set up to be reliable. Feels good to get to this point. I'll mess with some minor cosmetic issues next year and see what I can do to improve the 98.

On another note: I spotted a 1996 Land Cruiser with 167k miles locally for $6,800. Sure wish I had the cash. It could use a little love but what a keeper it would be!
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