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Old 11-16-2019, 08:55 PM #16
negusm negusm is offline
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Reassembly.

Now I had a whole bunch of new and cleaned parts to go back on the car. I had pretty much figured I would mess up something. I'm super careful but boy...this is a whole lot of stuff off all at once. The whole front and top of the engine including AC bracket and Alternator was off.

I replaced all seals, hoses...water pump, t-stat...yada yada yada. See parts list above. Took a few weekends to get the time to get everything back together. It's just so much stuff.

I was sure I would forget a wire/connection something. But this is where I gain some respect for Toyota's engineers. You simply can't hook things up wrong or in the wrong spot or route things wrong. If you work with all factory parts...it's genuinely idiot proof.

After everything was back on. I had no spare parts. However, I was missing a nut to the #2 timing cover and a bolt to the fan shroud. I wonder where those went...and how does that happen? I don't remember dropping either. It's gonna bug me a long time.

Regardless. She fired right up. I was amazed. No check engine lights for 2 days now.

Pictures! Engine Bay looks sooooo gooood. No painting done...all just from new parts and cleaning.







So nice to look at now!

Last edited by negusm; 11-16-2019 at 09:36 PM.
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Old 11-16-2019, 09:13 PM #17
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Old 11-16-2019, 09:50 PM #18
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Wow, amazing job on the cleaning! I just did an advanced auto radiator too, and oem radiator hoses, thermostat and cap. That sticker on the upper radiator hose is a chore to get off completely!



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Old 11-16-2019, 10:06 PM #19
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Wow, amazing job on the cleaning! I just did an advanced auto radiator too, and oem radiator hoses, thermostat and cap. That sticker on the upper radiator hose is a chore to get off completely!



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That sticker is the easiest of all. You leave it on. Drive for 30 minutes. And she peels right off .
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Old 11-17-2019, 08:07 PM #20
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So, was the new $625 Throttle Body worth it? Holy heck, YES. It fixed SO MANY issues.

No more throttle hesitation/delay. I had no idea how much I had gotten used to driving with a throttle hesitation.

No more engine pinging. I didn't even consider this might be due to the throttle body.

No more surging when AC kicks on.

Transmission shifts more predictably.

Perfect, smooth acceleration.

MPG must be up. Like a good bit. I don't remember going as long on a tank before. I think I was hitting 15 MPG highway last time I checked it.

The TPS unit in the Throttle Body MUST have been well on the way out. I don't think a cleaning would have fixed it. A cleaning probably would have fixed the IAC codes. But I highly doubt the hesitation and acceleration would have been affected.

Driveability is pretty much exactly back to what I remembered.

This is only for, I think 4Runners built after 8/2000...so mostly 2001/2002 cars. What is nice though is that there is literally nothing to adjust. Bolt it in and let the computer learn what's what. Maybe older 4Runners are the same...dunno.

Last edited by negusm; 11-17-2019 at 08:18 PM.
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Old 11-18-2019, 09:31 PM #21
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Additional thought:

For cars with the fender flares (fat fenders)...the steering knuckles have to come off to do the UBJ. Those flares get in the way of the tool. I mean, I guess some of you wizards can figure it out but it was just easier to pop it off like Tim shows in his video. Once out, you can simply have your way with it. Plus you can inspect everything. That's when I saw the wheel bearing seals were toast.
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Old 11-18-2019, 09:34 PM #22
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Also am still getting a P0440 code like before. This is the dreaded generic evaporative system leak. That is next on the list.

After that:

More cleaning. Inside and out.

Wheel cap painting.

Throttle Body Disassembly. I haven't seen anyone do a 22030-62020 tear down. Supposedly there is a motor or two in there?

Front seat cushion replacement. I bought new foam from Toyota. Going to refresh my front seat.

Lift gate struts.
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Old 06-19-2020, 11:36 PM #23
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How is everything going with the rebuild? Did you narrow down the evap code or re-foam your seats?


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Old 06-20-2020, 09:35 AM #24
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Great job on updating your engine maintenance and front suspension.
The amount of time you spent on cleaning up the engine bay is evident, excellent work as it looks fantastic.
It will now be a pleasure to work on in the future as a clean engine bay makes a world of difference👍
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Old 06-20-2020, 09:48 AM #25
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Much appreciated if you can provide the part number for the small hose circled in red. I believe it originates at the lower plenum and connects to the smaller airbox.
Preformed and each end has a different diameter so generic supplied line no good here.
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Old 09-03-2020, 12:34 AM #26
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Totally a late reply here.

That hose?

I used a generic hose: 9/32" - 7MM is printed on it.

I can't find the part on the parts diagram...which usually means it isn't going to be a molded hose. I usually take old hose off, cut them in the middle and get the exact size. I always have to bug the NAPA guys because they have SAE sizes and not metric. But I am pretty sure the diameter of the hose is exactly right at 7MM. Now were the ends molded? Maybe? I figured they just deformed to the ports.
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Old 09-03-2020, 12:38 AM #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cory.armitage View Post
How is everything going with the rebuild? Did you narrow down the evap code or re-foam your seats?


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I did do my front seat! I plan on making a new post soon. Very very easy job.

Still have the pesky evap code. I keep clearing it and it goes away for 4 months.

I really want it to break hard so I can chase it down.
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Old 09-03-2020, 12:57 AM #28
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Totally a late reply here.

That hose?

I used a generic hose: 9/32" - 7MM is printed on it.

I can't find the part on the parts diagram...which usually means it isn't going to be a molded hose. I usually take old hose off, cut them in the middle and get the exact size. I always have to bug the NAPA guys because they have SAE sizes and not metric. But I am pretty sure the diameter of the hose is exactly right at 7MM. Now were the ends molded? Maybe? I figured they just deformed to the ports.
The end on the resonator is a larger size than the rest of the tube. The part number is 1734362110 HOSE, NO. 3(FOR IDLE-UP).
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Old 09-03-2020, 01:09 AM #29
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The end on the resonator is a larger size than the rest of the tube. The part number is 1734362110 HOSE, NO. 3(FOR IDLE-UP).
Oh, I see it now! Yes, that is the part. I think I may put that on the list to get.
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Old 09-03-2020, 08:38 AM #30
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The end on the resonator is a larger size than the rest of the tube. The part number is 1734362110 HOSE, NO. 3(FOR IDLE-UP).
Thanks guys.
I landed up having the parts guys at Conicelli Toyota give a hand with figuring out the part number on that hose.........all good!
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