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Old 11-13-2019, 06:26 PM #16
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Originally Posted by JZiggy View Post
Been through that before. Are you planning to report the issue to the authorities?

I'm guessing the person who brokered the deal with you is supposedly 1-2 people away from the "real" owner, right? And now that you've uncovered an issue they are aghast, have no idea how it happened, and don't really know how to get in touch with the "real" owner?

Yup! He has no clue, and no way to contact the previous owner. Luckily I checked it out and had my mechanic check it out. Fooled us both. After all itís a 4runner! They run4ever!
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Old 11-13-2019, 06:27 PM #17
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I wasnít planning on reporting it. But maybe I should! Iíll look into reporting it and reply back with details.
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Old 11-13-2019, 06:43 PM #18
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Quote:
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I wasnít planning on reporting it. But maybe I should! Iíll look into reporting it and reply back with details.
Keep us posted. I am curious how you make it.

On the bright side. Your rig looks good. So a positive on the note is you got a 3rd gen.. I am just sorry you gotten lied too...


I bought my 97 speed and the car dealer decided to have the pedal adjusted and put a spring on it. So it acted like a good solid clutch.. I was mad the next day when I found out what they did as the cruise control wouldn't work.

I wanted a 5 speed so I wasn't too boiling. However, I probably could have gotten him to knock $500 more off the price for me having to change the clutch.
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Old 11-13-2019, 07:55 PM #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgue467 View Post
3rd gen runner's odometers cannot be "rolled back". How????
96-98 have mechanical ODO's that can be rolled back just like any other mechanical ODO. The late electric ODO's can also be rolled back (or corrected to actual mileage) with an EEPROM programmer and a hex editor...

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Old 11-13-2019, 08:43 PM #20
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Rest assured the guy who brokered the deal is in on the fraud. Put him on the hook for it unless you want to simply overpay for a high mileage truck.
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Old 11-13-2019, 10:49 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JZiggy View Post
Rest assured the guy who brokered the deal is in on the fraud. Put him on the hook for it unless you want to simply overpay for a high mileage truck.
I have this thing where I believe all people are good. So I honestly thought he didnt know. But I guarantee your right. The whole transaction seems shady in hindsight. He was asking $5,500 but If I came that night he would take $4,000 cash. And he said he worked with cars interior. But he still always responds with any questions I have. Im going to pry a little harder into finding out if he knows the previous owner.
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Old 11-13-2019, 10:51 PM #22
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I just took the 4runner in to get new plugs because they offered free inspection with service. They were all amazed the car has 300k miles. They said there's not a thing wrong with it. This is why we all love our 3rd gens!!!
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Old 11-13-2019, 11:27 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc View Post

The "clank" you hear from a stop is the rear slip joint on the rear driveshaft. Get a grease gun and hit up all the zerks but especially the one in the back just before the last u-joints. It will take a LOT of grease if it's run dry.

So I checked the driveshaft. It seems quite dry. I need to find the best way to lube it up. I took it to a local shop and tried to explain. They told me that is was fine because there isnt any play in the driveshaft? I'm not sure if that makes sense. But they said it could be the transmission. I'm going to coat it with white lithium grease until i get the proper grease to actually get deep in there.
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Old 11-13-2019, 11:53 PM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnderFire View Post
Hopefully you didn't overpay too bad, but there really are worse vehicles for it to happen with. Might as well ride it out, just treat it like a 300k mile vehicle.

I found out my first 4runner likely had a similar rollback at some point in its life. Clock showed 137k when I bought it, a couple years later I decided to run a report, which showed services past 200k miles, oddly enough the jump back to 130 and change at registration didn't trigger any rollback warnings on carfax or autocheck.

At this point I've come to terms that mileage is just a number with these 20+ year old vehicles and that will only become more true as time goes on. My current fleet consists of the rolled back runner that's had so many parts sunk in it doesn't matter, and 2 beautiful 2 owner Toyotas, my original power train 265k mile 02 Taco, and a 97 4runner with 270k that I did a top end rebuild on and am refurbishing.

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I only paid 4k. I just would have gotten a 3rd gen with a locker with high mileage for that price.Thats the only downside.
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Old 11-13-2019, 11:53 PM #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkBlack View Post
I have this thing where I believe all people are good. So I honestly thought he didnt know. But I guarantee your right. The whole transaction seems shady in hindsight. He was asking $5,500 but If I came that night he would take $4,000 cash. And he said he worked with cars interior. But he still always responds with any questions I have. Im going to pry a little harder into finding out if he knows the previous owner.
Youíre not in the Novato area are you? The guy I dealt with was pretty much peddling the same story. He had bought the truck to swap out interiors and was then selling it immediately after.
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Old 11-13-2019, 11:58 PM #26
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Youíre not in the Novato area are you? The guy I dealt with was pretty much peddling the same story. He had bought the truck to swap out interiors and was then selling it immediately after.
No this guy was in victorville, CA
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Old 11-14-2019, 12:50 PM #27
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Originally Posted by JZiggy View Post
Youíre not in the Novato area are you? The guy I dealt with was pretty much peddling the same story. He had bought the truck to swap out interiors and was then selling it immediately after.
Mine was in the Novato area. I wonder if it was the same guy...
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Old 11-14-2019, 02:24 PM #28
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Originally Posted by MarkBlack View Post
So I checked the driveshaft. It seems quite dry. I need to find the best way to lube it up. I took it to a local shop and tried to explain. They told me that is was fine because there isnt any play in the driveshaft? I'm not sure if that makes sense. But they said it could be the transmission. I'm going to coat it with white lithium grease until i get the proper grease to actually get deep in there.
You'll be looking for these little guys (not my photo):

You need a grease gun because there's a little check valve that only allows grease in. The parts that are dry are inside the driveshaft itself. The grease gun has a little twist on fitting that creates a good seal and you just pump the grease right in. Moly grease is fine, been using that for years. Comes in those round cartridges that look like crescent roll containers.
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Old 11-14-2019, 05:12 PM #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc View Post
You'll be looking for these little guys (not my photo):

You need a grease gun because there's a little check valve that only allows grease in. The parts that are dry are inside the driveshaft itself. The grease gun has a little twist on fitting that creates a good seal and you just pump the grease right in. Moly grease is fine, been using that for years. Comes in those round cartridges that look like crescent roll containers.
Thank you for the photo!! So there's an attachment that fits onto those valves and I just it full into the old grease starts coming out?
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Old 11-14-2019, 06:44 PM #30
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Thank you for the photo!! So there's an attachment that fits onto those valves and I just it full into the old grease starts coming out?
Yes, it's a standard zerk fitting that all grease guns will attach to. Avoid the Harbor Freight ones though... mine broke on the 2nd use. Amazon has plenty of cheap ones, I like the pistol grip ones since you can do it with one hand that way.

If you are concerned about over filling (it is a "feel" sort of thing) what you can do is pump up the zerks until you hear the grease starting to come out (if you see it pouring out you've gone too far) and then take a ball point pen or very thin eyeglass screwdriver and press the little check valve in to open the zerk. If grease explodes out then it's overfilled, just keep the valve open until all the excess comes out. If nothing comes out, you might want to give it a few more pumps of grease.
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