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Old 11-14-2019, 06:48 PM #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkBlack View Post
Thank you for the photo!! So there's an attachment that fits onto those valves and I just it full into the old grease starts coming out?
Yeah, it is a standard grease gun fitting. Fill up each zerk fitting with grease until it comes out the color of the grease you are putting in. You can wipe off the excess that comes out if you don't want if flung all over the bottom of your truck. For the slip joint, you don't want to overfill it, just do a few pumps - it may be filled with dried grease, etc. You may need to pull the rear driveshaft and clean/grease that joint (more involved, you have to align it correctly to re-assemble the shaft)

There are 6 joint grease zerks for u-joints and 1 for each slip joint on each shaft, 8 total.

Drive/Prop Shaft Greasing Guide

-Charlie
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Old 11-14-2019, 11:50 PM #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phattyduck View Post
Yeah, it is a standard grease gun fitting. Fill up each zerk fitting with grease until it comes out the color of the grease you are putting in. You can wipe off the excess that comes out if you don't want if flung all over the bottom of your truck. For the slip joint, you don't want to overfill it, just do a few pumps - it may be filled with dried grease, etc. You may need to pull the rear driveshaft and clean/grease that joint (more involved, you have to align it correctly to re-assemble the shaft)

There are 6 joint grease zerks for u-joints and 1 for each slip joint on each shaft, 8 total.

Drive/Prop Shaft Greasing Guide

-Charlie

My coworker has a grease gun. But its filled with lithium general grease, will that work? I looked online and it seems like it will, but rather find out first hand from the guys who have done it.
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Old 11-15-2019, 06:25 AM #33
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As long as its GL5 hypoid oil compliant. Then again, GL5 hypoid oil is Cheap at walmart and such, why not get your own tube and be sure? Oh yeah go synthetic.

Enjoy that Runner.
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Old 11-15-2019, 11:36 AM #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogtail View Post
On these 3rd gen 4runners and 1st gen Tacomas its pretty easy swap out a cluster in 5-10 minutes. And the analog ones, as any analog, its not hard at all to roll back the miles to whatever you want. I had to swap out the digital odometer cluster on my 99 DD cause of a faulty fuel gauge, so I actually have 57K more on the rig than the cluster shows. Shows 322K but has 379K, I'll never sell it so no problem. On getting an inspection sticker the guy commented to me on the mileage discrepancy, so the DMV is keeping tabs also.
So to be sure on these mileages, check the records trail carefully.
A little off topic but was the swap plug n play? Any issues with the replacement gauge? I have the same issue with fuel gauge and been going by miles but recently found a donor or two for a swap. I am afraid I will end up swapping in another funky gauge since this seems so common on the 3rd gens.
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Old 11-15-2019, 12:15 PM #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudeprived View Post
A little off topic but was the swap plug n play? Any issues with the replacement gauge? I have the same issue with fuel gauge and been going by miles but recently found a donor or two for a swap. I am afraid I will end up swapping in another funky gauge since this seems so common on the 3rd gens.
Gauge swap is simple plug and play. Issue with fuel gauge could be the cluster itself or in the tank sending unit. So as I recall, I think it was 4 years ago when I swapped it out...My gauge would peg either full or empty or something like that and possibly work sometimes. If its the sending unit, symptoms can be different. Fuel gauge issues are not super rare, nor super common.
There are write ups on testing sending unit ohms resistance on the plug under the back seat. Tank isn't hard to remove, but its not fun. I just replaced my fuel pump this Summer as preventive maintenance on the 20 yr old one.
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Old 11-15-2019, 12:35 PM #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogtail View Post
Gauge swap is simple plug and play. Issue with fuel gauge could be the cluster itself or in the tank sending unit. So as I recall, I think it was 4 years ago when I swapped it out...My gauge would peg either full or empty or something like that and possibly work sometimes. If its the sending unit, symptoms can be different. Fuel gauge issues are not super rare, nor super common.
There are write ups on testing sending unit ohms resistance on the plug under the back seat. Tank isn't hard to remove, but its not fun. I just replaced my fuel pump this Summer as preventive maintenance on the 20 yr old one.
My shop told me it was the gauge cluster. I confirmed it when I replaced the pump last fall.

Mine only goes from full to half.
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Old 11-15-2019, 02:01 PM #37
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The whole point on not sharing how to change the mileage is that it is now in the forums that will show up in a search... some things are best left off the internet...
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Old 11-15-2019, 02:27 PM #38
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Originally Posted by gamefreakgc View Post
The whole point on not sharing how to change the mileage is that it is now in the forums that will show up in a search... some things are best left off the internet...
It's pretty much common sense anyways.


Just drive backwards.
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Old 11-15-2019, 02:54 PM #39
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I know this is too late for the OP, but for anyone reading this is the future;
You can buy legitimate CarFaxes from eBay for $4-$5 each, vs $40.

Pretty much, looks like some people buy either monthly or annual subscriptions to CarFax and then resell the individual reports as one of those 'fixit services' style purchases.

You pay with your PayPal, then the seller e-mails and asks for the VIN, you provide it, and then he provides the report in PDF format.


I did this when buying my wife's Sequoia a few months back and figured that $5 is worth the risk, especially going through PayPal, but it worked great.
I bought 3 reports from 2 different sellers and got each report within 15 minutes of initial purchase.

I did not purchase a 'real' report to cross reference the validity and make sure it was legit, but the mileage matched up and the vehicle location history matched the seller's story (out of state vehicle), so I believe it.

Now, if it's technically legal or not, I have no idea, but it works.
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Old 11-15-2019, 04:07 PM #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgue467 View Post
As long as its GL5 hypoid oil compliant. Then again, GL5 hypoid oil is Cheap at walmart and such, why not get your own tube and be sure? Oh yeah go synthetic.

Enjoy that Runner.
Never heard of GL-5 grease. Thinking of NLGI 2?
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Old 11-15-2019, 06:47 PM #41
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Hypoid + GL5 are gear lube characteristics.

Many may argue, but I use a synthetic EP #2 grease on all drivetrain zerks once/yr.

Driveshaft lubrication
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Old 11-15-2019, 07:14 PM #42
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I couldn’t find NG5. I got the super lithium EP Molly grease #2. Hope that’s the right stuff 👍🏻
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Old 11-15-2019, 07:18 PM #43
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Any grease is better than no grease!
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Old 11-18-2019, 04:56 PM #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gamefreakgc View Post
You'll be looking for these little guys (not my photo):

You need a grease gun because there's a little check valve that only allows grease in. The parts that are dry are inside the driveshaft itself. The grease gun has a little twist on fitting that creates a good seal and you just pump the grease right in. Moly grease is fine, been using that for years. Comes in those round cartridges that look like crescent roll containers.
Solved my problem!! Thank you!
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Old 11-19-2019, 02:08 PM #45
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If you had known the true mileage you may or may not have still bought it for the same price but that's irrelevant. The fact is the mileage was rolled back and the seller either knew it or should have known about it. It's a crime in CA. A friend bought a Ford F250 where somebody had done the same thing - rolled the odo back over 100k miles. He went back to the seller and said "I'll keep the truck but I want $1,500 or I'm going to pursue criminal and civil charges. I will probably prevail in court but even if I don't it's going to cost you a lot more than $1,500." The guy went to the bank and gave him 15 $100 bills. Good luck.
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